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post #1 of (permalink) Old 01-30-2003, 04:08 AM
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Top removal

I'd appreciate any advise on removing the full size hard-top on my '72 Scout II. I know which screws come out and how it theoretically comes off but is it a 2 man job or 4 or what? Where does the dome light wiring unplug? Does the removed top need to be supported in any special way or can it sit on my garage floor for a few months? I've got the half-top and bulkhead I want to install for now any advise on doing this? Thanks!
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 01-30-2003, 04:43 PM
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Re: Top removal

The top is pretty heavy, but me and my dad got mine off and back on. The dome light should uplug on the pass. rear corner. I wouldnt think that leaving it on the floor would hurt it.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 01-30-2003, 05:10 PM
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Re: Top removal

Yeah, there are the bolts along the sides and there are some screws that attach it to the windshield frame too.

3 people really makes it easy but it is doable with 2 and I even managed to swap two tops by myself once. I was able to stand in the bed area under the center of mass of the top and lift it up with the top resting on my back.

Now, I have a platform that I made where I can just lift the top off and support it by some 10' long 2X12's. I don't have any good pics but you can see it in the background of pic #2 here:

You also have to remember when you take your top off that your body might sag in the middle if you have a lot of rust an the rocker panels and the quarter panel areas. You shouldn't tale the top off until you have all or most of the rust fixed.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 01-30-2003, 09:44 PM
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Re: Top removal

Thanks for the input. I can't quite make out what you built to hold your top Supreme but I do see the top sitting up there in the background. I have a couple other questions for you though. Your rollbar looks just like the one I want. Did you pick it up or was it in your rig when you bought it. Know where I can get one like it?

Did you do the SOA? How's the steering geometry handled? Is just a dropped pitman arm sufficient. I did my Wagoneer and had to get a different knuckle for the pass. side and run my drag link above the springs using a stock pitman arm. Does the pass. spring perch need to be welded to the pumpkin on one side or is it welded to the tube?


Oh, BTW, I think your rig looks great!
post #5 of (permalink) Old 01-30-2003, 10:57 PM
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Re: Top removal

It is 4 4X4" posts in the ground in about an 8' square. Then I put 2 more 4x4"'s on the top of the posts to make some rails. Then I just slide the 2X10's on top of those rails and wedge them under the top of the scout.

The rollbar is a smittybuilt, I got it at 4 wheel parts wholesalers. I don't like how the base of the main hoop mounts in front of the step to the bed. If I did it again, I would make my own or get a D and C kit:

I did my SOA, it was pretty involved. I ground the housing of the pumpkin flat and then welded a pertch on there. I made my own Z-draglink out of some " steel but that was rather frowned upon by most people who got a good look at it. I should do crossover steering and make the draglink go above the springs but that will require a new knuckle and I want to go 8-lug full width soon anyway. I wouldn't do a dropped pitman arm because your springs will hit the draglink at full stuff. This is a good write-up on the cut and turn for the SOA:
post #6 of (permalink) Old 01-31-2003, 11:39 PM
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Free Top and Tailgate

I recently sold my 1977 Scout II. The purchaser did not want the top and tailgate. Both have rust but function. Located in Fort Lauderdale, Florida. E-mail me at [email protected] if you want to pick them up.
post #7 of (permalink) Old 02-04-2003, 08:23 PM
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Re: Top removal

I usually get 2 guys to help remove the top of my scout. As for support I lean it up against my hous with a towel at the top to keep the paint from scracthing havent had a problem yet.
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