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Steering column replacement

3K views 25 replies 7 participants last post by  mazdab 
#1 ·
So I'm looking at a truck that probably needs to have the steering column replaced. How much work/trouble will this be? How much is it going to be for parts (roughly)? Anyone ever done this?
 
#2 ·
I assume your still looking at the 73 to 87 model, and if that is the case, no biggie if your replacing the entire column. A couple bolts on the underside of the dash, a couple more attaching it to the firewall, a wiring harness plug, and then one holding it to the steering shaft. Not sure on a price since between myself and buddies, we have quite a few parts vehicles around for robbing parts off of so I don't hit the junk yards too often.
 
#4 ·
It is not a hard job. I'd personally replace the entire unit if you can. Taking a column apart can be quite a pain. But make sure you get an exact replacement. Many trucks had similar columns, but not exactly the same. Thus, wiring might not quite match up.

While your in there you want to replace your rag joint and take a good look at the other linkage.

If your quick, and have all the right parts and tools it is a quick job. I don't recall needing any special tools. For some reason i am thinking you might need some kind of puller, but i don't remember for what.
 
#6 ·
Yea, now that i think about it if you are just swapping the column you don't need to pull anything. The wheel ( i think ) can come off without a puller. That is if you even care to keep the same wheel on the column. There are 3 1/4 20 x 1 inch bolts? and a larger one in the center. something like that in there. been a bit, and my mind is not perfect.
 
#7 ·
In the event you didn't see my post at Austin:

More often than not, if it's a tilt column, the tilt part has nuts/bolts that get loose. Usually all that is needed is to re-tighten them. this is the case with most tilts that have a lot of play in them, if that's the case.

You didn't mention what the actual problem with the column was, so I'm just taking a wild guess, since it is a very common one with these year models. It's mostly due to people using the steering wheel as a grab handle when entering the truck. It can get so bad that it actually won't hold it's normal position, and falls all the way to the lowest position if it's not addressed. I *think* it's like 4 nuts to tighten, but I could be wrong. I hope that's it, it will be much easier and cheaper than messing with another columm.
 
#8 ·
I think that the column only has 3 bolts to tighten. Most of the columns in that year of Chevy are similar...vans, trucks, cars...

I agree that if it is only loose, you can just tighten the bolts and it will be fine. That is the cheapest fix as well. I suggest using locktight on them when you do this.

Loose columns are not uncommon in chevy's. I have tightened mine up a couple of times over the last 10 years.
 
#11 ·
[ QUOTE ]
I think that the column only has 3 bolts to tighten. Most of the columns in that year of Chevy are similar...vans, trucks, cars...

[/ QUOTE ]

That's probably true. I've never had to do it myself, I was just aware that it was a common problem that can be easly solved. I agree with the locktite as well, no sense giving them a chance to come loose again.
 
G
#13 ·
You've got to press the plastic gizzee down and remove the snap ring. I don't remember wtf that thing is called, I think it has to do with the turn signal hardware. There are 4 bolts down in there near the tilt joint that will need tightening. There are replaceable bearings in there as well. I dunno what to say, except for: BE CAREFUL! My dad replaced the bearings and tightened up those bolts only to have it come apart in the near future. Find the torque specs if you can for those bolts and Loctite them in at exact specs, which will probably require a 3/8" Drive Torque Wrench.
 
#14 ·
Hmm.... i'm picturing it in my head, and still not seeing the 'plastic gizzee.' I was thinking that it had something to do with the turn signal, as there is an additional piece there. I coulnd't get that one removed either though.

I'm going to take another look at it this weekend... was kind of crunched for time yesterday.

Any other help is appreciated.

- Steve
 
G
#15 ·
Right after you pull the wheel you're looking at the shaft with the horn contact button to the right of it. A quarter turn and you can pull the button and spring. Around that is the plastic cover. Below it is the lock ring for the steering wheel when the key is off, then under it is the turn signal hardware (I think).

I forgot to mention, the spring underneath the piece I'm thinking of might as well be a valve spring for a 12+ Liter Caterpillar Diesel. You've to to push down like a MOFO on it to be able to access the clip.

Looking at my Chilton's manual the outer plastic cover I'm thinking of it the Lock Plate Cover. They're using some kind of tool to push it down (cheaters), dunno what it is. There are a couple decent pics in here, you should go by a local auto parts and see if they've got one of these manuals that's been opened. I know my Store Manager (Schuck's) will let me open one up to help answer any customers questions. The pics start on page 8-23 if you get a chance to look for them.
 
#19 ·
that lock plate that you push down might also have two set screws holding it in. Look through the little holes on the lock plate you might be able to see them.they will be recessed about an inch , but there is also a little snap ring about the size of a dime that needs to be removed youll see it if you depress the lock plate.
 
#23 ·
Well I took the wheel off again last night and thanks to the diagram, finally understand what I'm supposed to do. I now see the lock ring on the center post of the column... my question now is, how does it come off? Do I need to hold down the plate and somehow wedge that ring out? I messed with it a little last night, but it was getting dark and I was worried that if I managed to get it off, I wouldn't be able to get it back on before bedtime...

Any other pointers?
 
#24 ·
yes the press tool hold the spring tension under the plate so you can use something like a dental pick to work the lock ring up and off the column once the clip is off the plate and spring will come off
i have done it with out the press but its hard to hold the spring tension back and work on the clip at the same time unless you have a helper one push the plate down the other removes the clip
 
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