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post #1 of (permalink) Old 03-20-2006, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
 
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Upgrading the brake maste cylinder

Hi guys, have my Mazda mudbogger just about ready to go again this year. I noticed the other day that the master cylinder is leaking at the booster, so a new one it is. I am running D44 with 12 Bolt rearend, all new brakes last year with a 1/2 master bolted up to the Mazda Booster. I know the booster is smaller than GM's, but I could not hold the truck past about 2300 RPM at the line (running a B+M 3000 stall), would start creeping forward. Was going to lenghten the pedal in the cab but am wanting to know if there might be a different master I could run to increase braking pressure along with longer pedal.

Heres a link to a pic
http://users.techline.com/natedogg/P1010147%20copy.jpg

Thanks for any advice.

Nathan
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 03-20-2006, 10:50 PM
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Re: Upgrading the brake maste cylinder

there are a bunch of options out there. do a google search on a hydro booster. it uses the power steering pump, and was stock on many 3/4 ton chevys. there are kits out there you can buy that have new parts, most of them off the self chevy parts. but, if you spend enough time in the local U pull it yards you could find the pieces off many old GM trucks. the newer GM trucks use a similar system.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 03-20-2006, 10:52 PM
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Re: Upgrading the brake maste cylinder

http://www.offroadunlimited.com/Prod...idproduct=1657

hope that link works.

thought of that after i posted.

nice truck, by the way.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 03-21-2006, 07:45 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Upgrading the brake maste cylinder

Thanks for the post, I will look into that option, maybe until then I will just swap in another 1/2 ton master and lengthen the pedal, I do have a huge roller cam in the SBC and need more braking under idle conditions anyway.

Thanks again.

Nathan
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 03-21-2006, 05:54 PM
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Re: Upgrading the brake maste cylinder

are you sure the master itself is good? even without any boost you should be able to hold the brakes.

the larger the booster, the more power you will have. you could look into a 3/4 ton. a company called LMC truck might be able to help. they have catalogs for most year GM trucks, in which they list all the brake parts for 1/2 through full ton trucks. both hydro and vacuum boost.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 03-22-2006, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Upgrading the brake maste cylinder

I did a search on master cylinders and found that 1/2 ton trucks have a 1.125 bore, HD 3/4 ton have 1.25 bore and 1 ton trucks have a 1.3125 bore, so I will get the 3/4 ton bore, and lengthen my pedal at this time. That Hydro boost kit looks really trick.

Thanks for your help.

Nathan
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 03-22-2006, 06:53 PM
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Re: Upgrading the brake maste cylinder

cool.

sounds good.

keep in mind the chevy's don't use the same size fitting on both end of the master to the distribution block. the fitting on the master is generally larger. so, your gonna need a FLARED reducer. when your at the auto parts store remember to pick one up. nothing worse than having to run back to the store for a few 85 cent fittings.

you likely already know that, but thought i would bring it up just in case.

http://www.rightstuffdetailing.com/about_us.htm

they might have some parts that could help.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 03-22-2006, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Upgrading the brake maste cylinder

Yes, had a hard time finding those fittings on the 1/2 ton master I am running, But I am not running any kind of distrubution block, or proportion valve, straight out of the master to the front discs, and straight to the drums, the truck will stop fine under normal braking, just cant hold the truck on the Muddrag line, wants to creep forward.

Nathan
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 03-23-2006, 06:57 AM
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Re: Upgrading the brake maste cylinder

you might want to try running a block. it will give the back brakes more power.

the idea behind them is that it delays power going to the front until the backs get some. the fronts come on right away, because the pads are close to the rotor.

the rears need extra power because the pads are farther away from the rotors, plus they need to overcome the springs holding them back.
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