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post #1 of (permalink) Old 10-17-2005, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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Salvaging a ton lift for a k 5 blazer

This is a 4 part question. Sorry the post is so long.

I am helping a friend put his K 5 blazer back together. The rust bugs got it bad, we are replacing large sections of the floor pan and adjoining floor structure with all new metal. This is all in preparation for a lift of some kind and other new drive train parts.

One possible option for lifting the truck is actually salvaging parts off another pickup that has 33s on it sitting in a field. Just a guess on the year, but mid to late 80s no newer than 87. I assume the kit is probably a 4 inch lift judging by the space between the fenders and the tires. The first question is would the springs off of a ton Chevy bolt up to the K 5?

The second question is about spring rates. Would the ton springs make the K 5 jar out your fillings and make it uncontrollable on the road. The salvage truck is sitting in shoulder high sticker bushes so I have not gone in to count the number of leaves on the springs. The shocks and hardware on the salvage truck are rusted and likely shot. So, the only money that would be saved by using the salvage truck would be not buying springs and rear blocks. Salvaging those parts will not save any great amount of money but every little bit helps when you are building a truck.

The last two parts of this question deal with the salvageable axles on the ton. From what I can tell from a safe distance away from the sticker bushes around the truck it has a Dana 44 front end. Is this axle worth swapping with the stock 10 bolt under the truck now? Or are they about the same and not worth the extra effort? In my mind it was debatable which axle is superior, but I welcome any thoughts.

The final question is in regards to the rear on the ton. Is there any way (stampings exc) to tell if the rear diff is a locker/posi from the outside? This ton rear axle is surly stronger than the 10 bolt stocker, but the current 10 bolt does have a factory posi of some type. Figured the stock 10 bolt posi is better than a 12 or 14 bolt open rear.

Any help on any of those subjects is welcome.

Thanks.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 10-17-2005, 01:23 PM
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Re: Salvaging a ton lift for a k 5 blazer

The springs will bolt up.

The spring rates depend on the manufactuer. To save yourself some fillings you should keep the stock rear springs and do a shackle flip. OffRoad Design makes them. When you do that you keep the flatter stock springs which ride better.

If the truck is between 81-87 it's not a Dana 44 (stock) it's an 8-lug 10 bolt. If it's a camper special or high gvwr, it might have a dana 60. The rear is either a 14 bolt w/ 9.5" ring gear of semi-floating design' or a 14 bolt w/ 10.5" ring gear, of full floating design. Yes they will bolt up though, part of the beauty of this vintage of GM trucks. Only thing you'll need is a conversion ujoint, I think.

I'm not sure if the axle tag (if it's still there) identifies the G80 (the rpo code for the eaton gov-lock). So look in the glovebox for the RPO table, look for G80.
post #3 of (permalink) Old 10-17-2005, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Salvaging a ton lift for a k 5 blazer

what would be a better axle for off roading, the semi floating or full floating or does it mater?

thanks for the advice.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 10-17-2005, 06:42 PM
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Re: Salvaging a ton lift for a k 5 blazer

How big of tires are you running/will be running? The FF will handle a 44" tire, but it hangs down some, prompting most people to shave the pumpkin. The SF would probably do well with 37" tires if you treat it right. The FF is without a doubt the best thing you could "bolt in" under the K5. Some parts are cheaper for the FF, like a Detroit Locker for example, I think is about $360 for the FF, while it's ~$600 for the SF.
post #5 of (permalink) Old 10-17-2005, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Salvaging a ton lift for a k 5 blazer

The biggest tire this thing would see would be 35's. So both rears would work. The truck is going to still be a street truck. Mostly for the winter when it snows or bad weather. Sometimes a camping or off roading trip. Nothing two major, at least for now.

Any known problems with these Chevy rears, things to look out for other than slop or a grinding noise? I have done some rear end work in my day, so i know what it should look like inside when i drop the cover. I've taken apart 10 bolts, but never a floater so this will be a first time for me dealing with this type of axle.

thanks again for the help.
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