Looking for information on an 84 K20. - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
GM Standard SFA Trucks & SUV's All discussion of full sized Solid Front Axle Trucks, SUV's to include Suburban

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2004, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 333
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
 
Looking for information on an 84 K20.

After my Jeep got stolen and dumped on the mesa about a month ago...I decided I should convert to something a little more useful - A truck.
My dad has had a few 4x4's over the years and always had the most luck with GM products (Chevy or GMC trucks). So following in his footsteps I decided that I should look into picking up one as well.

I found a 1984 K20 with 76xxx ORIGINAL miles on it (Yes, it's 76000 not 176000). The current owner has had it for almost 10 years and bought it with around 52k on the odometer. It was used once in a while..perhaps once every 6 months, which I'm sure is why it has so few miles for being 20 years old.
The current owner has also only had it "off-road" twice since he's owned it in. Both times were on maintained forest roads. It's got bald highway tires on it even.

The build tag is still on the drivers side fender well inside the engine compartment.
The pertinent information:

- 5.7L V8 (which makes it the 350ci w/ a quadrajet).
- Locking differential (I'll assume it's a LSD in the rear).
- 3.42 axle ratio.
- 4 speed manual with a granny low (SM245?)
- Looks like a New Process 206 transfer case (the tag is still on it).
- Manual front locking hubs.

If I get this truck, I would like to lift it 2.5" - 4" (suspension lift) and put some 33's on it.
Now, what I'd be interested in finding out are the following (keep in mind it's never been modified):

1) How good overall is this truck for what I plan to do to it?

2) What axles does this have (Front looks like a Dana 44)?

3) How weak/strong is the C-channel frame?

4) Does the 350 work well off-road with the Quadrajet or should I look into something like a Holley Truck Avenger?

5) Since it has manual front hubs, is the front axle always being driven by the t-case?

6) How strong are the stock transmission and transfer case (i.e. Do they stand up well to larger tires like 33's or 35's and the torque that the 350 puts out)?

7) What are common problems for this year / model?

8) How expensive are replacement parts for it?

The truck does start and run just fine with no noticeable mechanical defects other than needing a clutch. The body and frame are both straight with no damage.

However, the paint on the hood and the top of the cab is peeled so badly that the primer is the only thing between the metal and the environment. NADA and Kelly Blue Book both list this truck at about $1800 for the mileage and condition.

The truck wasn't officially "For Sale", but I approached the owner to see what he'd sell it for. I didn't get an answer so I told him I'm go check NADA and KBB for the market value and let him know. I haven't heard anything back yet...so there's no official price for it yet.

With that in mind, about how much should I expect for this truck?
Iron_Weasel is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to Iron_Weasel For This Useful Post:
cowboy1435 (07-14-2014)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2004, 03:56 PM
steved454
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Looking for information on an 84 K20.

First off that is a 84 model and Gm started rust protection around 1980 I think so that makes a good choice in year models.

My 79 k20 has alot thinker frame than my 83 k20 so yes the frame is weeker. Fix ( be sure and put a brace on the frame near the steering sector they sale for about $ 35 dollars. have not really incountered any real frame trouble with it though

Axles: You are correct it should be a Dana 44 up front and either a full floating or semi floating corp 14 in the rear.
You want a full floating rear, but like in my 83 you probably have a semi floating.

Carb: I am mostly a go through mud since I am in MS so have no real need for the Holley Truck avenger but if you do any angle climbing or decending I would for sure invest in one.


Front locking hubs: Is the locking hubs an aftermarket or factory lockers? I ask that because alot of the factory trucks started using the electric locking hubs( If heavy use always put a good set of Warn Locking hubs in the place of electric) And no you truck is not full time 4wheeldrive.

Trasmisson: Plus that it is a standard, It should be fine if taken care of. You may want to upgrade the clutch if putting big tires on it. I do not know much about the 206 I have a 203 in my 79 a great tcase and a 208 I thought in my 83. Now I have to check and see. I would not worry about it until it gave me trouble. I have a 2 1/2 inch procomp lift on my 83 with 33 inch alterran and have had no trouble yet. You can not put thornbirds in 33inch on though without minor fender trimming.
Parts: this truck was made from 73 to 87 which means alot of parts and not that expensive Chevyduty.com LMCtruck.com and most replacement parts seem to fit better on the later models 83 through 87 a plus

Paint: usually on those models the clearcoat had problems and they peel( mine is bad so time to think paint job myself) I payed $3300 for 83 3/4 ton 4x4 longbed, no rust not many dents and overall good shape 135,000 miles and in my case was a great purchase.
Hope I did not ramble much and helped in some way!
post #3 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2004, 04:34 PM
Can't Get Enough
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,113
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
 
Re: Looking for information on an 84 K20.

Let me guess, it's either blue or silver. GM had bad batches of blue and silver paints for a few years. They didn't last long at all.
Overall, it sounds like a good truck to me, I'd go for it. I'd say $2500 at the most.
c_rock is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to c_rock For This Useful Post:
cowboy1435 (07-14-2014)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2004, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 333
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
 
Re: Looking for information on an 84 K20.

Baby / light blue. lol

NADA says $1750 and KBB says $1950. So I was thinking somewhere in the neighborhood of $1900 - $2000 for it.
Iron_Weasel is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to Iron_Weasel For This Useful Post:
cowboy1435 (07-14-2014)
post #5 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2004, 10:31 PM
**DONOTDELETE**
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Looking for information on an 84 K20.

Locking differential means a G80 RPO code in the glove box, it is the Eaton Gov-Locker. The general concensus around here is that it is a pile of crap.

The 4-speed is the SM 465.

It's a New Procees model 208 (aluminum case) or model 205 (cast iron case).

Answers:

2) It's a corporate 10 bolt front axle. GM stopped using the Dana 44 around 1980, a few '81's had them from leftover stock. Look at the rear differential cover, the number of bolts holding the cover on is how you ID the axle, for the most part. If your gear ratio is 3.42s I think it's the 14 bolt semi floating rear axle, 9.5" ring gear. I think 3.73:1 is the lowest (numerically) you can put in a 14 bolt full floater.

4) A good rebuilt quadrajet is regarded as one of the best off road carbs.

5) No, it means that it used to have automatically locking ones on there and someone has removed those and put manually locking ones on there.

6) The SM 465 is regarded as being bullet proof in most respects. A built 454 won't make it wince, a 350 sure as heck isn't gonna bother it. The 205 transfer case IS bulletproof, just not a very good low range. The 208 transfer case has a better low range, but the aluminum case is weaker. 33s and 35s are not large tires (considering the largest DOT approved off-road tire is 49" tall), the 35s are about all you want to put on the stock 10bolt front though.

7) Frame cracking where the steering box bolts up to. The stock steering is no bueno for offroading, when you articulate you loose your ability to steer.

8) What kind of parts? There are still thousands of these trucks on the road (we own 4 alone), and parts are still very plentiful.
post #6 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2004, 10:50 PM
Carpal \'Tunnel
 
wrath's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Waukesha, WI
Posts: 3,323
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
 
Re: Looking for information on an 84 K20.

It'll have a SM465/NP208. 14SF rear and 10 bolt front. The rear has a Gov-Lock in it. 1984 was an odd year... damn near no 1 tons made it to the dealerships since most of them went straight to the federal government.

The NP208 is a part time transfer case. IE: the front driveshaft only spins when in 4wd.

The front axle will survive 35s if you don't beat on it too bad.

The only thing cheaper than that truck to fix is an 82-93 S10 or a Volkswagen Beetle.


I paid $1900 for my 84K10 with 62,000 miles on it three years ago. The cab and box were rusty. 700R4/NP208 with a 305. Most of those 62,000 miles were plow miles. I'd pay $1900 for the truck you're looking at.
wrath is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to wrath For This Useful Post:
cowboy1435 (07-14-2014)
post #7 of (permalink) Old 12-13-2004, 05:12 PM
I Might Just Know What I'm Talking About
 
TxFireman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 1,582
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
 
Re: Looking for information on an 84 K20.

To add to what 83GMC said, the frame issue can be prevented (if it has not cracked yet) by getting a brace for it. Off Road Designs sells them. They also carry a frame repair bracket kit that you can weld in, if it has a crack already. If it does have a crack, I would have to advise getting both the brace and the repair kit.
TxFireman is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to TxFireman For This Useful Post:
cowboy1435 (07-14-2014)
post #8 of (permalink) Old 12-13-2004, 05:18 PM
I Might Just Know What I'm Talking About
 
TxFireman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 1,582
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
 
Re: Looking for information on an 84 K20.

Oh, one more thing... I agree that a mechanicaly sound Quadrajet is a keeper. It's all I have ever ran on my 4wd's that were carburated.

The C channel frame is plenty strong, don't worry about that. You want it to have a certain amount of flex anyway.
TxFireman is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to TxFireman For This Useful Post:
cowboy1435 (07-14-2014)
post #9 of (permalink) Old 12-13-2004, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 333
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
 
Re: Looking for information on an 84 K20.

Very good informatio guys.

I was somewhat concerned about the C-channel considering that my Jeep had a boxed frame on it.

If I pick this truck up, then I will definitely pick up a steering brace. I highly doubt it's cracked already...this truck has rarely seen more than asphalt.

If I can talk the guy out of the truck, then I'll more than likely be bothering everyone a lot more.
Iron_Weasel is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to Iron_Weasel For This Useful Post:
cowboy1435 (07-14-2014)
post #10 of (permalink) Old 12-14-2004, 06:48 PM
Nevada_Lion_King
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Looking for information on an 84 K20.

I have an 84. I got it for free and have put in about $3500. It is worth every penny! Tell me where you are getting any other 4 Wheel Drive vehicle that can seat 8+ people comfortably for that price.


I just replaced my shot Quadrajet with... a new Quadrajet!
It's a good carb. Unless you really need something special, why go through the headache of having to link something else up?


Paint - mine is Blue & Silver (that's cool cuz I'm a Lions fan). the last owner had it repainted in origional scheme and guess what... the new paint is even starting to peel on the roof.


I am putting on KYB Monomax shocks this weekend.


4 W drive - with mine (origional) I have to put it in neutral, pull the lever, do a little dance, kiss my hand, slap the ceiling and pray... but I don't have to get out to lock the hubs.
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome