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post #1 of (permalink) Old 07-18-2003, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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I finally got around to lifting my truck

I'm going to post part numbers and stuff later in a reply.

Well, I finally got around to it. It took a week and a half between rebuilding the 3.42 axles, bolting on the springs and shackle flip, putting the axles under the truck, doing a rear disc conversion, and mounting my 2" receiver on the back.

I think we spent five days disassembling the truck and then rebuilding the axles. They were pretty much junk. The inner seals in the front axle (the ones next to the carrier bearings) were toast and no one could get them but the dealership and they ordered the wrong ones the first time. The universals in the axleshafts had rustdust for bearings. Most every seal in the front end except two itsy bitsy ones on the inside of the spindles got replaced. The front end also got all new balljoints and I didn't even keep any of the old ones for spares because they were completely junk.

The rear axle was a piece of crap. Some of you might remember the junk carrier. Well, the axleshafts were pitted beyond belief. And the axle tube bearings had been spun in the axle tubes (and welded) so I got to cut them out with the dremel tool. It needed new pinion bearings but since it didn't need a seal I didn't replace them.

Anyway, I put the used 4" BDS springs under the front and assembled and hung the front axle while my Dad ground and cut the rear axle rear hanger braces to fit the front hangers off my 77C20. That netted the 4" of lift in the rear and a pinion pointed at the sky. Finding U-bolts for the front was a chore and cost me $40 at CarQuest.

The front brake lines I chose were off a 94 2wd 1 ton's right front. The left front costs more and has a metal bracket on it to connect to something. They're plenty long. The drop hose for the rear is that Napa part number that has been floating around the forums for a long time.

After chasing down the proper rotors for the rear (which consist of the stamped steel center standard cab long box IFS rotors as opposed to the cast centers) and returning a junk remanufactured caliper I started on the rear disc conversion. It consisted of a 3.5" hole saw to drill out the rotors, modified #52 pads, 80s metric banjo bolt calipers (half ton or car, 3/4 ton have same mounting but different pistons and bodies from my research), early to mid eighties A-body front brake hoses (I chose 86 Monte Carlo), and backing plates from a 70s or 80s 6-lug front axle.

The front end got the shocks off the back of my truck. They were mounted where the auxilary shocks go on a quad shock truck. They're 23" long. The rear end got some shocks that are 27" long but I don't remember what they fit.



It doesn't look like it is lifted that much but its a little over 4" taller and yes the tires now look small. It's high enough where I have to climb in instead of just getting a buttcheek on the seat and sliding in. It's really hard not to use the steering wheel or the door to lift yourself in.



I went to Boston Pond to take some pictures and found that a lot of construction was going on. I was going to try to climb some of the bigger rocks but I didn't want to make a fool of myself with all the people on breakfast break watching me. Therefore you got some pathetic flex pictures. Yeah, I'm a wannabe Drey. On short people like me (5'11") the rocker is at crotch height.



The rest of the pictures are here:
http://www.wrath.com/projects/vehicl.../liftandaxles/
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 07-18-2003, 09:24 AM
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Re: I finally got around to lifting my truck

It looks good. Doesn't that sense of accomplishment feel good? [img]images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 07-18-2003, 10:58 AM
 
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Re: I finally got around to lifting my truck

Cool man, how do the front springs ride? Did you run an e-brake caliper in rear or no?

Hey, I like your rti ramp..



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post #4 of (permalink) Old 07-18-2003, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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Re: I finally got around to lifting my truck

Yeah, it does. I'd be a lot happier if the pinion wasn't pointed at the sky though. That means to correct it I not only have to buy degree shims but I have to buy new U-bolts as well since the threads above the nut on mine are pretty much rusted off.

I'm really glad I finally have rear discs. No more drums to get mud in. No more locking up rear tires when I stomp on the brake pedal.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 07-18-2003, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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Re: I finally got around to lifting my truck

Well, let's just say the front springs are stiff. They aren't nearly as soft as my stock 3-leaf setup. With my stock springs I could push down on it and I could get it to bounce around 3". I can get about 2" with the BDS ones. The ride is about the same at low speeds (under 35mph) but at speeds from 35-50 it is kind of rough. I don't know if its because I'm running rear shocks on the front or what. They might be valved wrong for front shocks. My old front shocks had 3 bad ones (no dampening offered) and one good one. I wasn't going to buy $40 Rancho junk so I just put the rear ones on the vertical mount in the front and bought $19.99 rear ones.

I've acquired some pretty scary steering characteristics when the front end bounces (seams in the concrete here probably feel like speed bumps there in California) because of shoddy roads. When it comes down you never know which way it is going to go. I'm hoping it is a toe-in issue. I had 9/16" of toe-in after all the parts swapping and that seemed like too much (going by the fact the tires heated up) so I turned it down to 1/4". As you know tires tend to "straighten" when put under load (pushed down the road) via loading all the joints and flexing the sidewall so I think I'm going to go up to 3/8" and see if it is any better. I'm more familiar with low profile tires and if you run a lot of toe-in on them you'll burn them off fast and with 3/8" you'll start wearing the outside tread. How much toe-in do you run with those monsters?


I couldn't come up with an inexpensive rear caliper solution that bolted in the same way as my calipers. The auto parts store was going to make me wait a week for a rear 79-81f-body rear caliper to come in. I was going to see if it looked like it bolted up then I was going to run them. El Dorado calipers aren't affordable. The only other solution I'm aware of was to go to a newer caliper that wouldn't fit my backing plates. Some mid-90s 2wd 1 tons got rear discs but I found the calipers to be a bit pricey so I never ordered any. After them I'm pretty sure everyone went with those goofy wannabe Ford Exploder drumbrake in the hat of the rotor setup.

Since I haven't had an emergency brake since I bought the truck I decided I could live without one. When money permits I'm going to buy an electric roll control solenoid and use it for a parking brake. Sure, it's a parking brake instead of an emergency brake but how often does the master cylinder completely fail? Usually its one seal or the other and the combination valve will eliminate the circuit with an open line if a line is cut. I'd be more worried about it if I spent a lot of time in the mountains or went rock crawling.


I remember that picture because I thought it was cool your frame didn't twist in half like mine does. I remember thinking to myself "I didn't know IFS flexed that much, my Dad's only has 2" of up travel." Our club has an RTI ramp but I don't want to drive out there if no one is there for the summer or the ramp isn't accessible. I'm kind of curious. I was too embarassed to try before.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 07-18-2003, 02:13 PM
 
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Re: I finally got around to lifting my truck

Sounds like you have bumpsteer which is normal for those trucks lifted without crossover... What kind of steering corrections did you do? If you posted it I'm sorry, I missed it... Does your steering wheel turn when you hit the bump?

Hehe, don't ask about my alignment... When I put the axle in I set both tires parallel by measuring them, equal distances between sidewalls... Then I put a little toe-in in there but I can't remember what. I never had death wobble since I set my caster to get rid of it, but I had bump steer until my springs finally settled to where they were supposed to be. Anyway, right now my tie rod is bent pointing out so I have probably around 1" of toe-in [img]images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img]. Still drives perfectly fine, the ram doesn't allow the tires to move anywhere, probably burning a bit of rubber off though... Oh well, time for some 42's...

For your parking brake, you may want to consider a "lever lock". Quite a few of the big guys in the rock crawling croud as well as a few of my club members are running them. It's a mechanical line lock, you shove the brake pedal down and then flip the lever up and it holds the pressure on your brakes. Then when you flip the lever down you are back to normal. It won't run your battery down and it holds for months and months without leaking down. However I would think the constant pressure on your braking system would blow a seal or something if used to hold vehicle for like a week or something. But I've ridden with the guy in our club with it and it works great.

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Yeah, we have a ramp in our club as well, it was at BlazerFest this year but as soon as it arrived is when I blew my front driveshaft apart... Then by the time I made a new one at camp the ramp was being taken over by all the weekend wheelers that were around us so I never got a chance to get on it [img]images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 07-18-2003, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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Re: I finally got around to lifting my truck

Well, it only happens when a tire leaves the ground or becomes so unloaded it almost leaves the ground. While I was at Wal-mart I tried driving over a curb to see if I had bumpsteer but I don't. I do know what bumpsteer is too, my quad has bucketloads of it and so does my Dad's sandrail.

Yeah, I looked into a line lock back when I planned on routing the rear brake line through the cab so I could have an inside line lock and proportioning valve. My Dad's sandrail has one from about 15 years ago made by Bell or somebody, I forget. It's the push-pull type though. I kind of ruled it out once I found out I don't need a proportioning valve since I'd rather not have the potential to be sprayed with brake fluid.

It's still a possibility though, just not a priority.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 07-18-2003, 11:36 PM
 
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Re: I finally got around to lifting my truck

Your a wannabe alright...isnt everyone [img]images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
your pages arent opening for me, also, i tryed your homepage like and got the same thing
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 07-19-2003, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
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Re: I finally got around to lifting my truck

The machine my website is hosted off took a dump last night. It should be working now.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 07-19-2003, 10:46 AM
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Re: I finally got around to lifting my truck

The downside on the line-lock is the master cyl has to work initially in order to create the pressure the line lock holds. So in case of massive MC failure --.

A mechanical perking brake is an entirely different system -no hydraulics involved. That's why states and Feds require it.

A friend got cited for not having a parking/emergency brake - he had his cables tied up out of the way but visible from the rear. Cop saw it and knew what they were.

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