Broken Lug studs........stupid question - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 06-21-2003, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
 
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Broken Lug studs........stupid question

I can't get the damn brake rotor off! I've got the two snap rings out of the locking hub, but there's nothing else in there.

I see what COULD be the nut, but it would require some special tool. Does these things require a special tool to remove the hub and the rest of the junk?

If so, what is it called, where can I get one and how much do they cost.

I did a search, but apparenlty I'm the only really stupid person on here, I couldn't find anything.

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I've obviously never worked on these things.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 06-21-2003, 10:57 PM
 
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Re: Broken Lug studs........stupid question

Spindle nut socket, most auto parts stores have them. 20 bucks or so.

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 06-21-2003, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thank you.

Thanks.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 06-22-2003, 10:02 AM
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Re: Broken Lug studs........stupid question

It's a four-fingered socket with about 1/4" wide fingers. It'll cost you anywhere between $8 and $20 at an auto parts store if they even know what you're talking about. I got mine from Napa for $16 which has a lifetime guarantee. However, chances are they'll never honor it. I kept the package just in case.

Anyway, you'd never get it apart because those two nuts in there preload a conical bearing.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 06-22-2003, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
 
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OK, I got one, now have another stupid ?

I got the bearings out, checked everything out and it looks fine. The grease was a little brown, but not too bad. I repacked it, and put it back together. I had a little trouble getting the hub back on.

Now I took it back out for an off-road test and it doesn't seem like the front wheels operate in 4 wheel drive. I locked the hubs and nothing. I tried to get into places that I would definitely need them, like steep, sandy slopes and deep sandy ruts. I buried the rear end up to the axle and the locker definitely works!

What could cause my 4 wheel drive not to engage? Are the hubs not locking properly? How can I tell?
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 06-22-2003, 09:17 PM
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Re: OK, I got one, now have another stupid ?

Sometimes the hubs can be finicky. Mine work perfectly and I often have to go in reverse to lock and unlock them.

You probably didn't put the hubs back together correctly. You should use a manual when putting them back together.

You can tell if they're locked by putting the transfer case in neutral, locking the hubs, rolling the truck, and then try turning the driveshaft by hand.

Since you have an open differential in the front one hub not working can make it so the front doesn't do anything. Plus, it is very hard on spider gears and hubs to run it in 4wd with one hub unlocked.

Anyway, to figure out which one isn't engaging you can put the truck up on a jack and stop the stub shaft from turning by sticking something in the knuckle. You then try turning the tire with the hub locked.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 06-22-2003, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: OK, I got one, now have another stupid ?

I found the problem. The pin that holds the gear in the hub in place by now allowing it to turn had disappeared!

Apparently it broke off, so I drilled a little hole and replaced it. Works great now. This thing is such a stinky beast!

Well, I was running with only one hub locked, but no damage was done thankfully.

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 06-22-2003, 10:46 PM
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Re: OK, I got one, now have another stupid ?

Well, now that you've done that are you going to go and change all the fluids--especially the gear oil in the axles?
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 06-22-2003, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
 
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DID IT, ? about Frame Supports and Brakes!

Yep, already did it. The rear diff had been hit by a rock and it pulled the cover out of shape a little bit. There was fluid in it, but it was about half empty, but the oil looked good.

The front (I forgot to buy a gasket) was disgusting. I had to syphon it out of there and it was the color of watered down chocolate milk!

The engine oil will be changed soon and the transfer and tranny were both changed when I had the shop fix the leaks.

I also greased all of the U-Joints except for the last U joint before the rear diff (couldn't get to it).

I see that the front tie-rod on the driver's side has been welded together. Guess I'm going to a junk yard to get another.

Also, I've ordered a steering arm to help with the geometry of the drag link. I already had one break and dont' want that again.

I'm going to be buying the frame supports ( looked and it doesn't appear cracked). If you get the bolt on and weld on kits, do they have to be put on in a particular order? Or can you weld on one and then bolt on the other over it?

What can be done to improve braking? This thing doesn't stop (unless it hits a tree). I inspected the brakes all around and everything looks fine. I didn't bleed them, but visually inspected them. There's plenty of meat on the pads and shoes and the drums and rotors look fine. The cylinders don't leak either, everything is bone dry.

So, what's the way to go?
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 06-23-2003, 06:06 AM
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Re: DID IT, ? about Frame Supports and Brakes!

I don't bother with gaskets on differential covers. RTV works perfectly fine.

I don't think you can fit both the bolt on and weld on steering box frame supports at the same time. A lot of guys that haven't broken their frame yet buy the bolt on one and weld it on along with bolt it on.

As far as brakes, half ton brakes aren't meant to stop giant meats. I can lock up my back brakes at a whim so I don't think there is much to be had in the back. However, I have been contemplating ball-milled rotors for the front. I really have to try to get the fronts to lock up but I can do it if I try hard enough. Maybe I'll just try to find some better pads.
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