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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-12-2002, 09:32 PM
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Lube for Gov-loc?

what would be a good gear lube for a 10 bolt with a gov-loc?, my dad said somthin about STP was a good lube, is this true? Lubricant suggestions welcome
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2002, 06:17 AM
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Re: Lube for Gov-loc?

Regular gear oil.
post #3 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2002, 10:08 AM
 
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Re: Lube for Gov-loc?

regular 80-W90 gear lube is fine. just make sure to add the additive...available at parts store or dealer. soem say you dont need it, others say you do. GM adds it when the dealer does work ,so i did too. not that it matters. you should try to break the damn thing so you can upgrade to a locker...or better yet a better axle
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2002, 05:25 PM
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Re: Lube for Gov-loc?

Don't break it! Get it out of there before it breaks! I spun mine on ice and it exploded, knocking two holes in the cover. I didn't know this until the ring and pinion started howling due to loss of lube[img]images/icons/frown.gif[/img]. I'm still running those gears (with new bearings) but they make noise.
post #5 of (permalink) Old 09-14-2002, 06:54 PM
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Re: Lube for Gov-loc?

The best stuff out there is the GM limited slip lube available at the dealers. My last bottle was like $8 or so, but that was in SoCal, so yours are probably cheaper around where you live.

Gov Loc's suck. Don't spend any money on it other than the limited slip lube. That and driving sanely should keep it alive, and as fully functional as they ever get. If it grenades or stops working, don't spend any money on it. Get something better.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 09-14-2002, 08:47 PM
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Re: Lube for Gov-loc?

Yay for Grenade-Loc. Or something of that nature. It's not if it's going to grenade, it's when it's going to grenade. The Gov-Loc is actually weaker than an open differential in a ten bolt.

Just run regular gear oil. I usually buy Valvoline full synthetic or the Slick 50 brand gear oil. Both are around $6/quart. The key to gear oil is changing it regularly. I recommend changing it when you change your transmission fluid and filter--which should be every 20,000 miles.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 09-15-2002, 12:56 AM
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Re: Lube for Gov-loc?

nope i dont have a tranny filter, i got the muncie sm-465, and im gunna baby the gov-loc as long as i can, because i really dont want to screw with the rear diff, except make sure there is fluid in it.
post #8 of (permalink) Old 09-15-2002, 09:02 AM
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Re: Lube for Gov-loc?

Well, you know what I meant. Most people neglect their automatic transmissions. Most people don't know that the filter should be changed every 20,000 miles.

Differentials and transfer case fluid should be checked pretty regularly especially if you like to pretend your truck is a deep-sea submersible. haha.

Yeah, I don't want to play with the differential either. I think I'm going to buy a complete front axle when I want to change my gears instead of changing the gears. I'll also probably stick an EZ-locker in it since the local guys recommend them for the front end of a 10 bolt.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 09-15-2002, 11:14 AM
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Re: Lube for Gov-loc?

lol i just check my T-case fluid because it dripps it out the tailshaft plug, pain in the [censored] to replace to me, so i just check it once in a while to make sure its up there, and not down there, and tranny when i feel like takin the square bolt out of the t-case. and as for my rear leaky [censored] 10 bolt, i just check that every week and add if nessasary, because its leaking out of all areas now, lol, yoke input, axle seals, but oh well, its old and a chevy. replaced the wheel joints in the 10 bolt with gresables i just gotta buy the special needle tip grese thing so i can greese them, and my front driveshaft u-joint i will need the needle for too, so yahoo, gotta goto sears hardware and find one, and probly spend 200$ there.
post #10 of (permalink) Old 09-15-2002, 11:36 AM
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Re: Lube for Gov-loc?

If you think that leak is a PITA, you should keep in mind that mine is leaking BETWEEN THE CASE halves. Now if that isn't a nightmare I don't know what is.

You can replace the axle tubes seals in about 1 hour. I did mine in an hour. Open up the differential, pull the center pin, pull the c-clips, yank the axles out.

You can get the needle-zerk grease end for $6 or less at most auto parts stores. You just plug it in to the end of your grease gun. I also have one of those needle-end ones for non-greaseable balljoints and such, you just work it behind the rubber and grease them that way. It's about as sharp as a medical needle and I've stabbed myself with it before.

At both ends of the front driveshaft there should be zerks on the universals, but I doubt you have one on the splines. Mine doesn't. I've seen some that do though.
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