Yep, I need some lube - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
GM Standard SFA Trucks & SUV's All discussion of full sized Solid Front Axle Trucks, SUV's to include Suburban

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of (permalink) Old 08-26-2002, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 7,863
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Yep, I need some lube

Ok, I did the searches and found info on changing fluids, but nothing on first lube. My front diff is dry and I need to fill it up, is there any particular weight or type of gear oil needed for gear break in? Should I change the fluid soon after initial break in? So basically the question is what weight and type of oil to put in for break in and then what type after that.


Best Auto Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
willyswanter is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of (permalink) Old 08-26-2002, 03:46 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Posts: 4,086
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Yep, I need some lube

<font face="Times New Roman">
<font color=green>I'd go regular 80-90 for the break in, then change it out after 500 miles or so to some full synthetic stuff.
Shaggy is offline  
post #3 of (permalink) Old 08-26-2002, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 7,863
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Yep, I need some lube

Ok, thats what I was looking for. Also, is there a break in procedure for gears? I heard of one for the rear but with no front driveshaft I can't see how I would do it[img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img].

Best Auto Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
willyswanter is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of (permalink) Old 08-26-2002, 05:00 PM
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,545
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Yep, I need some lube

what did you hear about for the rear?
90K5 is offline  
post #5 of (permalink) Old 08-26-2002, 06:21 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Posts: 4,086
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Yep, I need some lube

<font face="Times New Roman">
<font color=green>Yup, there is definately a break in procedure for both ends. Basically the idea is to get the molecules in the gears all lined up. They do this due to the heat and pressure created from driving on them. You have to keep the heat and pressure down to reasonable levels or the gears will self destruct.

From Randy's Ring &amp; Pinion -

All new ring &amp; pinion sets run hot until they are "broken in" and in some situations they can run hot enough to break down the gear oil and damage the gear set. Some of those situations are:
[*]Towing [*]Tall tires [*]1/2 ton trucks [*]High numeric gear ratios (4.56 &amp; up) [*]Motorhomes

New gears are lapped at the factory but some are lapped more than others and even with lapping they are still not lapped under the same pressures that driving creates. The loads generated while driving force any microscopic high spots on the gear teeth back into the surface of the metal. This is called "work hardening". Work hardening is similar to forging in the way that it compresses the metal molecules into a very compact and hard formation. This can only be accomplished if the metal surfaces are lubricated and the temperature is not hot enough to change the molecular structure due to the heat alone. If the temperature of the metal gets hot enough to change the molecular structure it will soften the surface instead of hardening it. This may seem like a balancing act but it all happens easily &amp; passively as long as the oil keeps the gear cool while it is breaking in.

I recommend the following procedure for breaking in a new gear set:

All new gear sets require a break-in period to prevent damage from overheating. After driving the first 15 to 20 miles it is best to stop and let the differential cool before proceeding. RPS’s warranty requires at least 500 miles before towing. RPS also requires towing for very short distances (less than 15 miles) and letting the differential cool before continuing during the first 45 towing miles. This may seem unnecessary but it is very easy to damage the differential by loading it before the gear set is completely broken in. RPS recommends changing the oil after the first 500 miles. This will remove any metal particles or phosphorus coating that has come from the new gear set.

The greatest damage results when a new ring &amp; pinion has been run for several miles during the first 500 miles and the oil is very hot. Any heavy use or overloading at this time will cause irreparable damage to the gear set that can be determined by inspection of the gear set and will not be warranted by RPS.

ANY OVERLOADING OR OVERHEATING WILL CAUSE THE GEAR OIL TO BREAK DOWN AND THE RING &amp; PINION WILL FAIL!

Shaggy is offline  
post #6 of (permalink) Old 08-26-2002, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 7,863
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Yep, I need some lube

Ok so how do I do the front? Lock the hubs and follow those directions? But wait, that wouldn't work because it would load the wrong side of the teeth, thus not work hardening the metal. So should I just leave the hubs unlocked for now since I have no shaft then go through the break-in after I get a shaft?

Oh, BTW, the steering is done, brakes are done, except for bleeding, and the rear is all done. Working on the exhaust right now and it is way not fun[img]images/icons/frown.gif[/img].

Best Auto Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
willyswanter is offline  
post #7 of (permalink) Old 08-26-2002, 08:04 PM
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,545
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Yep, I need some lube

I doubt the front end gets very hot off roading. I would thing you could just engage 4wd when you need it and he fine. It takes a while to put 500 miles on a front end, and since you are going so slow, the front won't really get that hot. This is just my take on it, something to think about I guess.
90K5 is offline  
post #8 of (permalink) Old 08-26-2002, 08:06 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Posts: 4,086
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Yep, I need some lube

<font face="Times New Roman">
<font color=green>Yeah, for the front you'll need to disco the rear shaft, then drive in reverse following the same directions as for the rear [img]images/icons/tongue.gif[/img].

Seriously, it should be the same process, it'll just work harden the other side of the gear. I may pull the rear shaft and drive on just the front for a couple days to break in the front gears, but I think I'll call Randy's first and see what they recommend. It may be as simple as driving with the hubs locked, so the gears spin and get some heat in them.
Shaggy is offline  
post #9 of (permalink) Old 08-26-2002, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 7,863
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Yep, I need some lube

Ok, what I'm saying Mr. Smarypants[img]images/icons/tongue.gif[/img], is that if I let the tires turn the ring gear, instead of the pinion turning the ring gear, then the backside of the teeth would be work hardened, and this doesn't help anything, when the truck powers the diff the load is on the face of the tooth, not the backside so whats the point in work hardenening the back of the tooth?

Ok anyway, my real question here is, can I just leave the hubs unlocked and no front shaft in and not worry about it? I mean, the gears won't be turning right? If so, I should be able to wait until I get a front shaft installed and then do the Shaggy method of running with a front shaft only right?

Argh, I'm tired...

Best Auto Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
willyswanter is offline  
post #10 of (permalink) Old 08-26-2002, 09:20 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Posts: 4,086
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Yep, I need some lube

<font face="Times New Roman">
<font color=green>Yeah, with no shaft and unlocked hubs nothing will turn, so it should be fine. I would check with someone about the Shaggy method for the front before doing it though. Actually with the hi pinion front end it should work fine, I was just wondering whether it would be OK for a normal one since they actually drive the weak side of the teeth.
Shaggy is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome