Ok I'm pretty sure my (new) main seal is leaking even though the motor barely has 500 miles on it!!![img]images/icons/mad.gif[/img][img]images/icons/mad.gif[/img][img]images/icons/mad.gif[/img]
Any how I'm gonna check it out closer before I [censored]ume anything [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]
The K20 has a SM465 tranny, and I've been told its easier if you drop the tranny. That's a no can do b/c of lack of a tranny jack. It look like a close fit between the bellhousing and the rear of the motor, but a buddy of mine did it with the transmission in. I guess I just gotta drop the pan and try huh?[img]images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]
if your has a 2 piece, and from what i know it does, than you can try it that way,
if its one piece like mine you have to move the tranny out of the way, i just put a new one on mine (please oh please don't leak again!!!!!)
Go to your auto parts/automotive tool suplier and ask for a Sneaky Peat. You can change the steel with it without dropping the trany or pulling out the crank. That is on a 2-piece which I think yours is. If you have a one piece I think you have to get the trany out of there. You don't need a fancy trany jack anyway....just lift the truck up and put it on blocks so you can crawl under safely. Then take off both drive shafts then unbolt the trany from the motor. Then if you can unbolt the whole trany cross membe from the frame so you can drop the trany,T-case and cross member at together. You might not even have to drop it, all you have to do is move it back in the frame. Also when you are doing this you want to have an ordinary floor jack holding it up and supporting the weight.
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<font color=green>Another way that I've heard of dropping the tranny is to use 2 ratchet straps as a sling for it. Hook the straps under the tranny/t-case to each framerail, then just lower it down with the straps.
youve got a 2 peice.....changing it will be a PITA though. If it were me I would just keep dumping oil in it. You should be able to change it with out touching the tranny, just need to drop the oil pan and use the mentioned sneaky pete...that way you only have to remove the oil pan and the rear cap(remember oil pump with it and the drive for it will have to get messed with). Did I mention that this is a PITA
Edit....I see its only got 500 miles on it....did someone put the seal in backwards? and it might be a 1 peice....what year is the block?(it aint a new crate motor is it?)
No its a 2 piece rear main I know for fact. Its a '80 block.
Its not possible to put the seal in backwards is it? A buddy of mine who's been building motors with this family since he was like 12 (he's almost 20 now) helped me build the motor.
I sprayed cleaner all up under the motor, let it sit, then sprayed it the other day. Then I drove it the next day. So I think I might be able to tell where my leak would be now (hopefully [img]images/icons/crazy.gif[/img])
yeah you can put the litle beveld lip thing twards the front or the back....its easy to have a brain fart and stick it in backwards and it will leak like hell. Good idea to make shure its the main though....oil can sneak around and come out some funny places