Well I'm due for brakes! - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 04-29-2002, 11:55 PM
SHOTGUN
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Well I\'m due for brakes!

Well I got the Chevy licensed and insured and started driving it last week.[img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img] Loved hearing a gas burner with true duals again![img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img] (Don't get me wrong I love my Cummins!) Anyhow I took it to my Auto Shop to check out my front brakes, and see what I'm gonna have to replace before I add 38's. After pulling the drivers side tire I could tell the rotor was warped, and the pads were about shot. Teacher said rotor was to thin to be turned so that was that. THEN! I pulled the drivers side tire off.[img]images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]

The two lines are 2 very deep grooves in my rotor, and the pads were almost non-existant.

So now I'm looking at $100+ once I get done because since I'm shooting for 38's I'm gonna put new rotors, calipers, and pads on. Pads are like $15, but rotors and calipers are like $25 a piece. So for now it sits in my basement looking like that below waiting on me to have time to start on it.


If anybody has any helpful tips on doing this please by all means let me know. This will be my first time taking the rotors off this truck, and they have been there for quite some time if you can tell. I'm gonna start reading up on my Chilton's manual tonight![img]images/icons/laugh.gif[/img]
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 04-30-2002, 07:13 AM
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Re: Well I\'m due for brakes!

Ive never pulled any rotors but I think it should be simple deal. are you gona do the bearings and stuff since your already gona have it apart

I just read your sig deal, did I read that wrong does that mean your going with a 12" lift????? Ive seen 36s on 4" susp only 6 should clear 38s easy.

Evan
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 04-30-2002, 10:09 AM
 
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Re: Well I\'m due for brakes!

I think it means glass packs.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 04-30-2002, 10:23 AM
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Re: Well I\'m due for brakes!

Damn, you're making the brake job pretty easy by buying all new parts. Get yourself a hardware kit for each side while you're at it.

The most difficult part will be bleeding the brakes when you replace the calipers.


I forgot. Short memory today. My rotors are far worse groved than that but mine is from sitting so much before I got it. My pads look like brand new and they've probably been on there five years. Anyway, to the point, I'd turn your rotors anyway and keep them for spares (spraypaint them with cheap paint to keep them from rusting). It's not like you're asking someone else to do it at a shop where they're liable, it's the school. I wish I had a brake lathe.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 04-30-2002, 06:45 PM
 
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Re: Well I\'m due for brakes!

Well, I just redid my brakes before christmas so I'll be the first:

Remove the caliper - hang outta the way

Take the locking hubs off [torx bits/snap ring pliers(possibly, depending on if there is actually a snap-ring on the end of the outer axle shaft), and some little screw drivers to pry out the retaining ring which holds the whole locking assembly inside the hub]

Then you'll need to use the special hub socket to remove the locknuts on the spindle. make sure that the lock rings go back together the same way they came apart to ensure the locking prong is in its proper place.

then pull the hub/rotor assembly off the spindle - be REAL careful doing this unless you plan on replacng the inner oil seal.

I can't help you with pressing off the old rotor and pressing on the new one - thats something I would take to a shop to get done.

Then installation is just the reverse. Everyone has a method for setting the lock rings, but the way I've been tought is to - SPIN the wheel in the forward roatation while doing this - tighten the inner nut until the wheel won't spin any more, then back it off to zero-lash (check 12 & 6 o'clock for bearing play), then crank her in another 1/4 of a turn or so.

I've also been told that if they are old bearings you want em sorta loose, and new ones tight.

That being said, heres the part you don't want to hear... While your in their you should do yourself a favor, and at least re-pack all the bearings, and put a new oil seal in each hub. My recommendation would also be to remove the spindle (lots of fun) check and/or replace the spindle bearing and seals, check the axle shaft u-joints, and never-seize the [censored] outta ever piece you put back onto the truck. Then next time you go in there to fix something stupid you won't be fitting getting stuff apart.

Hope that helps, but I imagine you already know most of that..
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 05-02-2002, 11:27 PM
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Re: Well I\'m due for brakes!

Well auto tech teacher agreed to help me if I got there at like 7AM Monday morning. Said we could get both sides done if I got there by then.[img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img] (Sure hope so!)

And just to keep myself busy in my metals class I'm going to re-install my gooseneck plate I took out of the old rusted out bed.[img]images/icons/laugh.gif[/img] The holes are already in the frame I just have to drill them in the bed and line it up.[img]images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]
post #7 of (permalink) Old 05-02-2002, 11:34 PM
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Re: Well I\'m due for brakes!

Right you are KOC it means 12" glass packs,

12" leaf spring packs......... I WISH![img]images/icons/laugh.gif[/img] Then I could fit 40's! Now if I could only afford both. The set up I'm going with as of right now is a 6" spring/block kit and fender trimming to fit 38x12.50x15's. Until I can afford to go taller and wider (39.5's would be really [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img][img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img][img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img])
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