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post #1 of (permalink) Old 08-13-2001, 12:16 AM
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14ff drum removal

Well i got laid off friday so I have like 6 months of pure truck time. I would like to pull the rear drums off and check the brakes. I am scared of drum brakes since they are magical things that happen behind that round thing. Unlike Disc brakes where it is obvious how they work. Do I have to pull the axles then the drums pull off? All my other vehicles I could just pull them off after removing wheel these look held on by axle. I am think the reverse engineered Flux capcitor and grey tracking device may have gone bad triggering an abduction signal,I am concerned for my safety not only because they can now come and get me at any time but also because the truck is hard to stop. I have wrapped tin foil around my head to sheild their implant but would still like to fix brakes. Thanks.


"Bubba Tub" 1977 K-10 350,Th350,Np203 D60/14ff 4.56's Detroit Rear. 7" lift, 39.5/16.5 Swamper TSL's.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 08-13-2001, 02:04 AM
 
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Re: 14ff drum removal

should just fall off with some persuation from a hammer.


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post #3 of (permalink) Old 08-13-2001, 02:05 AM
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Re: 14ff drum removal

RyanB knows, but he went to bed hours ago. I'm pretty sure the drums are connected to the axle shafts and you have to pull out the axle shafts at least some. Not 100% sure though.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 08-13-2001, 08:54 AM
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Re: 14ff drum removal

Remove the wheel & tire, unbolt the 8 bolts and pull the axle out, then bend the locking tabs back so that you can get a special socket (Napa Part No. 2770) on the hub nut and remove it. You should now be able to pull the hub off.

post #5 of (permalink) Old 08-13-2001, 10:06 AM
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Re: 14ff drum removal

45acp is right on the $$$.

The rear drum brakes are very similar those seen on typical SF axles, only you have to pull the axle shafts out to get access to them on a FF. The whole process is quite similar to removing the rotor/hub assembly on a front axle... and the bearing setup is similar inside the FF. If you're going to do the brakes, I'd spend the extra $25 on new bearings and seals and replace those as well.

The socket you need for the rear is a 6-pronger; the 4 pronger that you use on front axles will not work. The socket is the same as used on GM 1-tons with the 14FF rear (the socket I bought didn't list any 3/4 tons on it).

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 08-13-2001, 10:25 AM
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Re: 14ff drum removal

Like 45 and quack said. But to talk about the prong socket, my 6 prong socket (that worked for the 14bolt) said for GM and Ford 1 TON FRONT AXLES. Wierd. I had one that Said for GM rear 1 ton and 3/4 ton axles, and that did not fit. Anyhow, make sure it's 6 prong I guess. Your front uses 4 prong, but the one I got, said for GM 1ton front, but I still had to grind each prong down to fit. Why couldn't they make one that freakin works!!
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 08-13-2001, 12:23 PM
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Re: 14ff drum removal

Yeah, everyone is pretty well bang on in the way they said to pull them off. Once you get those wierd nuts off (there are 2) then you just pull the whole hub off and the brake drum is atached to the hub. Now if there is wear on the drum then you will have to get it machined. If thats the case you will have to knock out the studs either with a press or a block of wood and a BFH. I used the BFH and the block of wood!!! Hopefully your drums are in good shape yet. I priced a set of drums for a friends 14bolt and they were $200CDN a piece so thats about $125US for 1!!!!! makes for a very expensive brake job if you have to replace them[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif[/img]

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 08-13-2001, 12:41 PM
 
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Re: 14ff drum removal

Oh, I am rebuilding my dana 60 front and 14FF rear soon adn what are the Part #'s for the sockets for the nuts on those things? Napa #, Chevy #, anything.

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post #9 of (permalink) Old 08-13-2001, 01:24 PM
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Re: 14ff drum removal

RyanB,
Your quote: "Once you get those wierd nuts off (there are 2)"

You sure? I know there are two "locking nuts" on the front D60 axle, but I only remember one on the 14bolt. There is a little rectangular piece that goes in the locking nut to keep it from moving and then a "snap ring" type piece that goes on the out side of it, to keep the rectangular piece in place and that's it.

Anyhow, I'd say, if your drums are bad, go disk [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 08-13-2001, 01:50 PM
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Re: 14ff drum removal

This is all a well planned joke right? I really just take the wheel off and the drum comes off right? I am going to hold off on all this for now. I thought it would be a simple thing to do all this. I will try to adjust the star wheel and increase braking. It has one right? Ok, thanks for the reply's.


"Bubba Tub" 1977 K-10 350,Th350,Np203 D60/14ff 4.56's Detroit Rear. 7" lift, 39.5/16.5 Swamper TSL's.
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