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post #1 of (permalink) Old 07-01-2001, 12:22 AM Thread Starter
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NEVER MIND, NERF BARS ARE A NO GO!

I recently got a set of Smittybilt nerfs for the Blazer. To many short women in my life, had to do something.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img] So I was planning on using some of the big cord drills we have at my shop, but it turns out all of them have crapped out since I last used one. So that leaves me with one option. My 9.6V Makita Cordless drill. A good drill, but I dunno if it is up to my frame.

So what do you guys think?

I've got a titanium bit to use, so I'm not to worried about that. Thing is, I'd hate to burn something up. My dad gave it to me, so it has some sentimental value.

Am I just being overly cautious, or should I try and find a big cord drill?

1992 Blazer Sport, 350, 4L60, Rancho 2" lift, 285/75R16 AT's, K&N, Flowmaster, MSD stuff[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif[/img]
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 07-01-2001, 12:57 AM
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Re: Drilling holes in frame with cordless drill?

Yeah, it will work!!!! Just go slow and take your time!!! when drilling steel you don't want speed anyway and if your bits are good and sharp it won't be that hard on it. I would sugjest to drill a pilot hole first and work your way up to what ever the size is. What size of holes do you have to drill? remember that 9.6V is only 3/8" so you will have to get a stepped shank bit to make it larger than that.

Good luck...Ryan

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 07-01-2001, 05:10 AM
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Re: Drilling holes in frame with cordless drill?

Hi AJM,

Makita drills can take a lot of abuse. Whether the drill bit is titanium coated or not is not so important here. Just make sure you use a split point drill bit, one of those for drilling stainless steel and other difficult to drill materials. They are much easier on the drill.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 07-01-2001, 01:47 PM
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Re: Drilling holes in frame with cordless drill?

Anything Makita is super tough. Every power tool I own is Makita and I have never had a problem or any complaints. Your drill is big enough. Hint......Get you some cutting oil. It will make everything so much easier. It will also make your bit last longer.

post #5 of (permalink) Old 07-01-2001, 02:13 PM
 
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Re: Drilling holes in frame with cordless drill?

ethelene glycol can be used as a cutting oil...its the neat green stuff in your radiator
---Peacock

<font color=red>96 Z-71 EXTcab, richmond 3.73, detroit rear, cold air, dual flowmasters, new drive-train </font color=red>
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 07-01-2001, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
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BLAAAAAAAHHHH!!!!!!

Thanks for the help guys, but it turned out to be a bust anyways. First I discovered that my coworkers overlooked our biggest cord drill completely. Thing's about 120V if I read the tag right. Would have worked great. Then I go to test mount the bars, and discover that the "tech experts" at Summit were wrong. The 2 holes I had to drill turned into 14, and no, I couldn't put the nerf bars right up 1/2 inch below the rocker panels. Would have had to drill 14 holes in the frame right around my fuel line, fuel filter, brake lines, and mounted them at least 3" below the rocker panels.

NOPE, NOT FOR ME!!!![img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/mad.gif[/img]

Called them back and discussed this. The customer service dork even had the nerve to say to me, "Sir, I have 8 feet of catalauges in front of me, do you expect me to know everything about every product in them?" I told him of course not, but if I asked a technical question about one of those products before buying, and he didn't know the answer, not to tell me an answer and say he was 100% sure. That's what the guy I talked to when I purchased them did.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/mad.gif[/img][img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img][img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]

So now I am going to call them back, demand they pay for shipping, and refund my money back ASAP! Then I think it will be a set of All-Pro's rock guard nerfs. This is truly what I want, so I might as well pony up the money for them.


1992 Blazer Sport, 350, 4L60, Rancho 2" lift, 285/75R16 AT's, K&N, Flowmaster, MSD stuff[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif[/img]
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 07-02-2001, 03:01 PM
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Re: BLAAAAAAAHHHH!!!!!!

The All-Pro's Rock Nerf Bars look bad to the bone.

I really want to go w/ those some day.

post #8 of (permalink) Old 07-03-2001, 05:26 PM
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Re: BLAAAAAAAHHHH!!!!!!

Those All-Pros are pretty sweet.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img]Somebody once said "Go Big" . . . Well we're goin' Full Size[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img]
post #9 of (permalink) Old 07-03-2001, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
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Re: BLAAAAAAAHHHH!!!!!!

I really like them too. http://www.allprooffroad.com/rockguards.html The "Universal" sets cost $249 for the basic bars. They are unpainted and you have to cut the legs to length, weld them to the main bars, and then weld them to the frame. I'm still mulling it over. Main sticking point is finding a good fabricator in SoCal who would do it for a decent price. Think I would then slap some do-it-yourself bedliner on the bars. Give it some grip and keep the rust off.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

1992 Blazer Sport, 350, 4L60, Rancho 2" lift, 285/75R16 AT's, K&N, Flowmaster, MSD stuff[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif[/img]
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 07-04-2001, 12:50 AM
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Re: BLAAAAAAAHHHH!!!!!!

hey AJM, an old family friend of ours has a shop in the Valley. I'm not sure about price, but they have been in business over 20 years, do nice quality work (but I don't know or haven't seen them do autorelated, they specialize in security fences and stuff. but welding is welding, i guess.) anyway, company name is Star Steel, (818) 885-8979 if your interested. Tell them Niv Dolgin sent ya and I'm sure you'll be treated right propper!


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