while the dealership waits for their trany guy to sober up, they did get around to doing the A/C system inpection.

My compressor has gone bad and needs replacing. The dealer quoted me over $700 for part number 1136519 (AC Compressor & Clutch) not including labor. Partamerica.com and carparts.com both list it as part number 15-20151 going for $380.

Her's the kicker - my local dealer won't install install a part unless it comes from their parts list. (he said "My manager doesn't bring steak to a steakhouse..."

Anyway, so it looks like I am going to have to install it myself, or find a honest mech. to do it for me. The problem with a self install is the freon (I am far from certified to work on an AC system!). Not to mention that if the job requires special tools, I'm even worse off!! Any suggestions in regards to a course of action would be appreciated. Looks like I'm gonna drive w/out AC for awhile either way

Find an independent shop. They will use aftermarket parts.
OEM VS aftermarket can be a large debate in itself.

hmmm... I'm kinda weiry about using after market components in an OEM system like AC. Mostly because I know very little about it. To be honest, I'm more pissed about the whole dealer thing than the lack of AC.

who mkaes aftermarket compressors?

i dont know about the aftermarket stuff, but i would definitely say to find a local ac shop (maybe talk to friends, see if any of them have a recommendation). the ac quit on my dads s10 a couple weeks ago and he tested and the blower relay was bad, so he replaced it but then it would only blow hot air. he took it to dealer and they said the compressor was bad and it would be $650 to replace compressor and dryer. he took it to a local guy here in town and all it needed was a recharge. a few bucks later, his ac blows perfect now!! once again, just another reason i wont take my truck to dealers

Mike ~
* Earnhardt Forever *

89 Chevy K1500 - 350TBI/700R4/NP241 - 3" lift - 33's - other goodies, but not enough! [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]

Why do people goto the dealers? I understand warranty but after the warranty ends why go back? I am always talking to my parents who constantly get ripped off from the dealer. It seems they replace everything they can think of instead of taking the time to troubleshoot the exact part. They charged my parents over $300 to put a alternator on thier van! Its robbery. Ask around for a good mechanic. The best ones are word of mouth. The AC compressor is $569 new and 364 reman. Vs. GM Delco at 749.00. Have the systrem evacuated then put on the compressor and drier. Take it back to mom and pop and have it filled back up. R22 is sky high price wise so the r134a might not be a bad isea. Good luck.

The best price I can find is at autozone. $264 for the Ac/delco reman. I was trying to find a four seasons reman unit. They are of course ac-delco but under a differnt name. I think they are $190. My local ac shop uses them and have had no problems. Make sure the clutch isnt bad , they can be replaced without evacuating and they are about $35 at most places. Lifetime warranty of course. (Lets see dealer do that!)

hey frankp, I take the truck to the dealer because a) I don't know enough about alot of the systems/compenents in my truck b) I probably don't have the right tools (yet) and C) Although I know a couple good mechanics, I wouldn't trust them with my cell phone, let alone an OBDII compliant truck. To much computer stuff - at least I know that the techs at GM dealers are required to learn how to maintain new vehicles. I think the automotive world is changing faster than the techs want to/can learn. But I could also be way off base!

The best price I found was $380 fron partsamerica.com (a CSK company), so I will definately check out autozone.

I might buy a clutch and replace it myself, see if that fixes the problem - that way I don't have to deal with the freon. Thanks for the suggestions.

Not to mention I have very little knowledge of AC systems (R22, R134,) - so I have some readin/research to do tomorrow.

thanks again folks, hopefully I can get it taken care of sooner than later.

WWW.autozone.com was were I got your price. I typed in a 350 it was a guess. I had to learn mechanical stuff because I couldn't afford a mechanic. A/C is just bolt on stuff after you take it and have it evacuated. Bolt in the new stuff and have it vaccumed out then leak tested. The vac is just turned off and they make sure it is holding vac. Then it is filled back up with freon. If you goto r134a it may not blow as cold. Never tried the stuff. Also it may work at higher pressures and seal may be stressed more and leaks may occur on a converted system. I am basing this on the advice from a shop that sells r12 for a fortune also a radio call in show. Heres my non-mechanical check list that I have aquired through my experience. This assumes the A/C is blowing warm.

is the compresor spinning?
On the two prong conector going to the compressor is there 12volts? if so suspect clutch. Try a light tap and a little wd-40 on outside of clutch. Dont get it on belt.

No 12volts. There are 2 switches in line with freon hoses. One is on low pressure side(fatter hose) one on high side(skinny hose). YOu can pull the connector of the low side and short across the two terminals, if the compressor comes on then that tells you the freon is low. Look for a sight glass window around the dryer(cylinder around radiator?) It will look like a glass port the size of a dime. Clean it offand look inside while shorting out the low side switch. You should see fluid rushing by or if it is low alot of bubbles rushing by. If you cant find this sight glass you can find the schrader valve on the LOW side and push it the valve for a split second to see if you hear a PSSSt. If you dont something has gone majorly wrong and all freon is out.

At any rate if low switch doesn't kick on comp. then move to high side switch. Short for a second only. If the compressor comes on check your electric fans if you have them. It could be causing it to build up to much pressure by not disapating the heat. I dont know any other fixes for high side. Dont short it too long because of the safety risk of that kind of pressure.

No 12volts at clutch could also be a fuse or the little a/c button on the dash if you have one. Feel free to apply 12volts to the proper side of the conector to see if the compressor blows cold. The dash button on a car of mine went bad and I ended up putting a toggle in. So they do go bad. I didn't mean to bash dealers but there are several small town mechanics that are really good and much less expensive. I always look for the shops that are busy but are spotless inside. No oil or grease all over the place. Tools are neat and being wiped down after use. I think this shows respect for his/her investment and i would think they would be inclined to respect your investment. Good luck.

I'm bored at work can you tell??

http://www.Wrenchead.com
Napa TEM271283 $569.00 $40 core
napa remanufactured TEM251283 $ 364 40 core
AC delco new ACD1520151 $ 749.50
http://www.carparts.com
AC DELCO 15-20151 $501.60
FOUR SEASONS 57950 $276.76
http://www.autozone.com
FACTORY_AIR REMANUFACTURED 57950
1 YR war. $10.00 core $219.99

AC-DELCO NEW 15-20151
1 YR war $369.99
FACTORY_AIr
NEW 58950
1 YR $349.99

AC-DELCO
REMANUFACTURED 15-20421
1 YR $244.99
1 YEAR COMPRESSOR WARRANTY VALID ONLY WITH REPLACEMENT OF RECEIVER DRIER AND ORIFICE TUBE OR ACCUMULATOR

Inspect
BELT
Incorrectly routed, adjusted(tensioned), missing or worn drive belt(s).

3
Inspect
A/C CLUTCH COIL
Damaged or faulty air conditioning clutch coil (fails to energize and engage air conditioning clutch).

4
Inspect
A/C CLUTCH
Air conditioning compressor clutch not engaging.

5
Inspect
A/C COMPRESSOR
Refrigerant in system is low, contaminated, or restricted.

6
Inspect
A/C COMPRESSOR & CLUTCH
Damaged or faulty a/c compressor and/or clutch, low oil level.

7
Inspect
A/C CONDENSER
Refrigerant in system is low due to leaking air conditioning condenser.

8
Inspect
A/C EXPANSION VALVE
Damaged or restricted air conditioning expansion valve or capillary tube.

9
Inspect
ACCUMULATOR
Damaged, clogged, or restricted A/C accumulator/receiver drier.

wow... thats is one thurough suggestion - i love it. thanks frank!!

As far a the compressor spinning - i don't actually know. I only noticed the AC went out the day I handed it to the shop. THEY told me it was a bad compressor and wanted $986.87 after labor to fix it! But the symptoms are that is can blow full force, but only warm air. I am glad that I didn't authorize the repair.

I know for sure its not the Serpentine belt is in good condition because I installed it myself about 5000 miles ago and followed specs printed in the engine compartment for routing.

I am pretty sure I know what killed it. It was the fact that I haulled a** up the infamous "Grape Vine" donig 85 mph with the A/C raging (lets just say that I am very impressed with my trucks capabilities! I had the dog with me and it was 110 degrees that afternoon). The engine never when over 190 - 200 degrees.

I think I am just going to pickup the truck after they drop the trany back in, test drive it, and if everything is a go, drive 10 hours back home! I'll have time the next day to pop the hood and assess the the AC situation. I found a local (Northern Cali) GM dealer that works with aftermarket products too!! I don't think they are a certified Goodwrench Service center though.

Anyway, I am just sitting around burning time waiting for my truck at this point!! I am also having them do a complete used car diagnostic so if there is anything else wrong I can have a list waiting for me to go through.

On a good note: My stainless centerbolt valve covers came Monday...

Anyone know if I have to remove the A/C Compressor BRACKET to remove the driver's side valve cover on a '97 Vortec 350??? I personally don't see another way around it. Might actually be good timing for all these AC problems if that is the case!!