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post #1 of (permalink) Old 10-13-2000, 10:41 AM
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Axle Gear Ratio\'s

Im wonderin', since next spring Im plannning hopefully for a straight axle conversion if everything works out, I know on '88 and up trucks the steepest gear you could get was 4.56, but if I put a Dana 44 up front, could I go with 4.88? Im planning on putting a 14 Bolt F.F. back there along with a Dana 44 front, I imagine you could put 8 lug chevy spindles on the F&rd Dana 44, (I know AJM posted about it, but anyone has yet to really answer his question) Thanks! [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 10-13-2000, 10:56 AM
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Re: Axle Gear Ratio\'s

I am sure you can get 4.88:1 gears for a Dana 44.

Why would you need to get Chevy 8-lug spindles for that axle though. Does Ford's 3/4 ton D44 with 8-lugs have a different pattern than a Chevy 8-lug. I am pretty sure you can find a D44 with an 8-lug pattern already on it.


Nich Kenny
'89 K1500 350/700r4
post #3 of (permalink) Old 10-13-2000, 12:08 PM
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Re: Axle Gear Ratio\'s

Yes, you can put 8 lug Chevy Spindles on a Ford 44.


Here is an email from a guy on the Ford BBS. This was to put the Chevy knuckles on a Ford TTB 44, but the ideas are the same as the solid 44.

>>>Well, Gang,

For starters, I'll show you this picture and let y'all see what I did :-)

http://www.fortunecity.com/silversto.../8lugfront.jpg

Yup, count the lugs- eight of them. Took me several tries but I finally got
it to work. I'll give you the rundown on what I did but I can't give y'all
any specifics on what truck to get parts from. First off- I bought an 10
bolt 3/4 ton axle from an early '80's Chevy K20 4x4 pickup (axle was laying
on the ground by itself so don't know exactly what truck). I had the yard
cut off the knuckles from the axle tubes so I could bring home everything
from just the knuckles out along with the axle shafts (didn't need the
trashed center section and axle tubes). What really stumped me about this
axle was when I was trying to buy inner wheel bearings and none of the '80's
3/4 ton Chevy bearings would work. It turns out that the previous owner of
the Chevy truck swapped in early '70's 3/4 ton rotors and hubs as you can
tell by the external hub lock in that picture. You have to make sure that
the axle you pull your stuff from has the caliper bracket in front of the
spindle, not in between the spindle and knuckle-
http://www.fortunecity.com/silversto...t/knuckle1.jpg . You can
see in that picture that the spindle sits between the knuckle and bracket,
note the 1/4 inch space between the caliper bracket and knuckle. I started
by taking apart all the Chevy stuff I had-
http://www.fortunecity.com/silversto...perbracket.jpg. I
then stripped everything off the Bronco knuckles and then proceeded to cut
the caliper mounting ears off.

http://www.fortunecity.com/silversto...nucklecut1.jpg
http://www.fortunecity.com/silversto...nucklecut2.jpg

In those pics, you can see the 3/4 ton chevy spindle that I tried on there to
see how it fits. I then knocked out all the Bronco spindle studs by
threading on a spare spindle stud nut flush onto each stud then hitting them
with a sledge on a block of wood. I then swapped the longer Chevy spindle
studs over onto the Bronco knuckle. Here's a pic comparing the stud lengths,
Chevy on the left and Bronco on the right-
http://www.fortunecity.com/silversto...indlestuds.jpg . You
can swap studs with the knuckle still on the axle beams but it is a lot
tougher to do. Then I ground a little bit off the face of the knuckle in
order to get the caliper bracket to sit squarely onto the knuckle but here's
a tip- do NOT put the caliper bracket on this way-
http://www.fortunecity.com/silversto...dlemounted.jpg
. I found out the hard way when I was trying to install the calipers and
found that it hit that corner of the knuckle. I had take everything apart to
rotate the caliper bracket one hole over so that the calipers are at the 3
o'clock and 9 o'clock position depending on what side of the truck you're
looking at. I also ran into a problem of the Chevy spindle studs being too
long and hitting the back of the rotor for some reason. I knocked out all
the studs on one side, reinstalled the Bronco studs and found out they were
too short. I then swapped the Bronco studs back to the Chevy studs and cut
off 1/16" off all the Chevy studs. Keep in mind, this was with the knuckle
still on the beam so I used an impact hammer to get the studs fully seated
(had to go in between the gap between the knuckle and axle beams). I had a
driveline shop swap the outer Chevy axle stubs onto my Bronco inner axle
shafts and replace the u-joints. I slipped the axle shafts in like you
normally would with the stock Bronco setup then put the spindles on. I put
the caliper brackets on grinding wherever it was needed to get the brackets
flush and then threaded the nuts on and tightened everything down. I had to
grind the knuckle a little bit so that the caliper itself would clear but
nothing major. Calipers bolt on like a normal Chevy truck and the hub locks
went on normally too. I bought a set of Ford extended lines and Chevy
extended lines because I wasn't sure which would work. I should mention that
I got the single piston Chevy calipers (1/2 ton) and it turns out that the
Ford extended lines work with the calipers. Only thing I'm concerned about
is if the new lines are long enough at full droop because the Chevy calipers
sit lower than the stock Ford calipers. I did drive the Bronco with the 8
lug front for a few feet when I was turning it around to start work on my
rear- this was with the rear driveshaft disconnected and in front wheel
drive. Didn't notice any problems in this very brief test but will test it
more once I'm done. If any of you attempt this swap, please keep in mind I
take no responsibility for any problems that may arise because this is an
unusual swap and not fully tested yet. I should also mention that I did some
extensive grinding to the outer surfaces of the caliper brackets and calipers
to make my 15" wheels fit and they do fit with very little room to spare-
http://www.fortunecity.com/silversto...otorground.jpg . I
highly recommend going to 16" wheels or larger if you can.

Dustin Siebert
[email protected]
Home Page: http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/gear/40
Registry: http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf....t&vr2=1&ID=201
'88 Bronco XLT 302EFI/AOD/BW1356,44IFS with 8 lugs(open)/10.25 FF(Lockright
locker)/4.56/35x12.5" Bajas front/35x14.5" Bajas rear/17x10" AR Atlas
wheels/38.5x15x15" Gumbo mudders on 15x10 chrome spoke wheels for trails
2 BIG BRONCOS 4X4 CLUB - GREAT LAKES CHAPTER<<<

Chris
[email protected]
http://www.mountaineers4x4.org/mercer
Proud enough to stack hay, and crazy enough to eat it.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 10-13-2000, 02:47 PM
TEX
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Re: Axle Gear Ratio\'s

<font color=purple>Lowest gears for a 44 are 5.89. Lowest for a 14-bolt FF are 5.13. 5.13 is available also for the 44, and 4.88 is available for both.</font color=purple>

TEX

http://sites.netscape.net/gumboracing


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