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post #1 of (permalink) Old 10-01-2000, 05:03 PM
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12 inch blocks??

I have been looking at lifts for a 73-87 Chevy or GMC 4x4 pickup, and noticed that most of the lifts come with new leafs for the front, and blocks in the rear? I was looking at the 12 inch lift kit specifically. So that would mean I would have to put a 12 inch block in the rear to lift the rear? Is this right? Is it dangerous? Has anyone done it before? Thanks...
--Bowtie

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 10-01-2000, 05:14 PM
 
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Re: 12 inch blocks??

First off, even though you didn't ask for an opinion on the lift, 12" is well into the stupid-high category. No flex and it'll ride and handle like a brick on a roller skate. Not to mention the poor driveline angles and steering problems. That being said, most 12" lifts will come with 8" springs and 4" blocks.

<font color=green>Evan</font color=green>[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]


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post #3 of (permalink) Old 10-01-2000, 05:28 PM
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Re: 12 inch blocks??

I don't care about flex, or ride quality to a certain extent, but I do care about safety. And I have heard that blocks in the front are really dangerous. I have no idea about the rear. Some say that having blocks in the rear is safe, but it looks like you could stomp on the brakes and all that in the rear go all to hell. Is this true?
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 10-01-2000, 05:45 PM
 
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Re: 12 inch blocks??

Blocks up front isn't safe, and stacking blocks in the rear is also not safe. I would go no higher than 4" blocks. 12" blocks would in my humble opinion be really unsafe (imagine what would happen if you take a sharp corner and one of them kicks out to the side yikes!!)... Rear blocks also can cause axle wrap...

I'd personally go with 6-8" lift springs and do some surgery on the body panels to make up the rest (or a body lift), it'll flex better, ride better (although you didn't care about that), and your center of gravity will be lower and that'll make it handle more safely in corners...

Just my few pennies worth...

Tim
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My August article on ORC

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 10-01-2000, 05:49 PM
 
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Re: 12 inch blocks??

If you stack blocks they could spit out, but generally the problem with blocks is the fact that they cause wheelhop due to axlewrap, because of increased leverage on the spring. In my opinion, blocks suck, but with 12" of lift you don't have a lot of choice. You could do a shackle flip to get an extra 4", with the 8" springs that'd be 12" total. You'd have 12" springs in front.

I'd personally do a 3" body lift, just so you could use slightly lower springs, like a 10" or better yet an 8". Sounds like maybe what you're going for is to have the biggest truck in town though. Be forewarned, 12" suspension lifts are not for the faint of heart. Ride quality is not poor, it's nonexistent. In my humble opinion, the max total lift I would ever go would be 8" springs in the front, 4" plus shackle flip in the back for total of 8", plus a 3" body lift for a total of 11". This would more than likely clear at least 42s, and probably 44s with a little fender trimming. Not only is this easier on the suspension and steering parts, but in your truck (which is a shortbed, if I recall), it will actually allow you to use a front driveshaft. You would be amazed to see how many trucks I see at Pismo Beach with 12" lifts that are only 2 wheel drive because the front driveshafts will no longer work.

In order to make them work and not end up with negative caster on the front wheels (that's a bad thing), the front axle needs to have the knuckles removed and turned, as well as having the spring perches reangled. The passenger one needs to be machined to do this, since it is cast into the diff housing. All of this is to point the pinion in the right direction, which is way, way up. This ain't cheap.

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 10-01-2000, 08:27 PM
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Re: 12 inch blocks??

<font color=blue>Shaggy's right, you wont be able to have 4WD with that setup. All the too-tall trucks i see at shows have no front shaft or (gulp) have angle shims under the front springs [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] ! Theres a guy on here named titanic that has a Sub on 44s with 6" of lift. He cut a lot off the fenders, but it looks good and would be much safer than a 12" lift could ever be. If you plan on lifting this high, I would use no less than 1 ton alxes and I hope you have a big block or a built-up small block to push those tires around. Large tires eat up a lot of power because they are really heavy.</font color=blue>

post #7 of (permalink) Old 10-01-2000, 09:45 PM
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Re: 12 inch blocks??

well all i want to do is run 36's or 40's, because i want a truck that will go through some mud.... and by mud, i mean, i plan on sticking my truck down off in a mud hole up past the tires. but I don't want to do body surgery, or do a body lift. i guess 36's will do, with what? 4 inches of lift? what will have to be done? driveshaft? pitman arm?
post #8 of (permalink) Old 10-01-2000, 11:14 PM
 
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Re: 12 inch blocks??

whoa, what a can of worms, for 36's you sure don't need 12" of lift...that's #1. And you better make sure that you have the gears to spin these big tires. Power is where it's at in the mud with a fullsize and the proper gears will let you use the engine to its fullest potential. I personally wouldn't go over 35" tires with stock axles if you plan to 4x4 this truck hard. But for a bit of reference, I'm including a pic of my '79 Blazer. It has 36" TSL Swamper Radials and a 4" Tuff country lift. I'm still going to have to cut the fenders some and the truck isn't completed yet. But it will give you some ideal of clearances. I did 4" springs in front, and a homeade shackle flip out back. hope to help,

Bryan

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