Re: Body lifted my 94...pic!
I would love to answer those questions. Before I got my lift I was asking all those same questions and no one could give me an exact answer for my specific truck so I know what you are going through. It took me about 20 hours but this is my first one, I did it completely by myself (had someone watch during the jacking up though), and I had a couple of delays do to probs...which you may encounter. Prob one. To lower the lower rad shroud you insert provided spacers. I could not remove it before lifting like instructed to do so I just watched while lifting it. After lifting it you could rotate it clockwise and trim it. The diresctions did not say to trim it but it will not drop down correctly it you do not notch the sides. Also I had to remove a square portion to clear the tranny cooler line then drill a new hole for the drop brackets. Then you have to drill out the stock holes to fit the new shroud bolts. Prob two. Mark the adjustment before loosing the cable. It was harder than h$ll to loosen the e- brake cable I almost could not get it and was ready to cut it and get another one. After I finally got it I bent up the tabs on the connector and pinched the two ends of cable together at the connecter under the driver door. You then reroute the e-brake and mount a new bracket. Whatch the second hole the e-brake goes through, you may have to grind off the tab and rotate it. Retighten the adjustment nut. Prob three. There was a burr inside my steering column that kept me from getting the steering extension in. After hours of trying I finally got out the Dremel and the steering extension was in whithin minutes. All hoses and wires were fine for me. You unclip the ones on the drivers frame rail. I also unclipped the battery lines, main wires on drivers side and watched the wires to the transfer case. Every thing but the main wires on the drivers side hooked back up afterword (still plenty of slack in everthing). To extend the tranny linkage you must weld on a extension--had someone do it for me. The transfer case linkage was disconnected the re-adjusted afterword. Both work fine and read in the correct positions. You also have to weld in over load blocks in the wheel wells. Instead I used the holes in the top of the frame and drilled corresponding holes as well as gap guard mount holes in the blocks. Then I bolted them in instead of welding and mounted my gap guards to the holes in the blocks and existing holes in the frame. Other things you need to know----the box bolts are a pain, I was lucky to get them all out in one piece expecially the ones at the front of the leaf springs which caused me to dent my truck. Adjusting the bumper is hard and the method for installing it outlined in the instructions is for the birds. I trimed the upper rad hose keeper thing on the upper fan shroud to keep it from eating a hole in the hose. I remounted the tow hooks inside the frame with all stock hardware so I did not have to cut the valence. I needed to trim a little of the tow hook nut plate on one side to clear the bumper bolts. You do not need to remove the gas filler to get the extension in like the instructions say. Any more q's just ask.
99 5.3 Silverado
"they dedicate their lives to running all of his"