Well, some of you might have noticed I post alot of questions about alot of conversions for my truck, but of course, this is just way over my head, converting from IFS to Straight Axle, how to put a TBI unit on a GM Performance parts crate motor designed for carbs, just way to complex for me right now. I've decided to go simpler and get one of the earlier model straight axle trucks. Im looking for one around '85. But I do have questions about these trucks. Is it possible to put 1-Ton Axles, on a 1/2 ton truck? And would a lift still work for a truck with this kind of combination? Just want to know my options before I go looking, hopefully thats about as complex my questions get for these kind of trucks, and from now on. Sorry for the life story. Thanks! [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img]

Well, if it were me in your shoes, I'd stick with your truck because:
A) you already own it,
B) when you are done it would be very trick, and
C) it would be pretty rare too.
Try to find a place in the area that can fabricate that stuff. It seems really technical, but you'd be surprised what ol' Joe the back county welder knows how to do, and can do well. That's what I am going to end up doing, since I just don't get a good vibe off of ORU. I want to put 1ton solid axles on my Blazer, and maybe even drop in a 500 Caddy. Definately be the only one like it.
As for the older Chevies, I love them too, and I hope I can help a little there too. It is completely possible to put 1 ton axles on a 1/2 ton. That being said, you may want to look for a 3/4 or 1 ton truck right from the start. Save you a lot of problems. If you put the lift on your half ton, but had 1 ton axles, it works if you adapt the axles to be like 1/2 ton axles. Where the spring perches, shock mounts, etc are. The lift isn't really made with a specific axle in mind, just the locations of certain parts. So if the 1 ton is modified to match up, it'll go fine. Hope this answers some of your questions.

1992 Blazer Sport, 350 TBI, Gibson 3" cat back, 4L60, K&N, Rancho 3" lift, 285/75R16's on 16x8 Bajas

Hmmmm, I really am giving this serious thought, as I am back and forth, you raise some interesting points AJM, that are pretty simple and I have on idea why I didnt think of them. Right now, I am swaying back and forth very far. On one hand, I could convert my 89 Chevy to a Dana 60 front, 14-Bolt rear and a set of Boggers for just over $5000, If I were to get an earlier truck it would cost me about $4500 for what I would do to it (cost of truck included), why not spend the extra $500? But, the deal with ORU, as some other people have stated that ORU downright sucks when it comes to customer service. If I could find some other shop that offers a kit, to convert late model Chevy's (preferably an 89) I would sway more towards the side of the conversion. The problem is actually finding one! I would take my truck to a shop, unfortunatly in Massachussetts, 4x4 shops are well, just kind of rare (I have no idea why either, theres plenty of woods). Could someone help? Thanks for the advice AJM! (Once again sorry for the life story) [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/blush.gif[/img]

I'm sort of in the same boat as you. I can easily trade in my jeep and get a new IFS chevy. 88-96. But then again, IFS sucks and I'd have to do all the conversion stuff. Now if I go with the earlier truck with kick ass axles front and rear and kick Ass tranny and T-case, I'll rid myself of all that labor. I'd go with the earlier truck. I'm dying to find. I'm even tempted to just get a 1/2ton and install the axles myself as the axles are easier to get than the whole truck. Believe me, I've looked everywhere for a early 3/4-1ton in good shape and I havent found one. Now, the 1/2tons are plentiful.

It is difficult to find any mid 80's Chev truck in really good condition, and when you do you are looking at close to $5000 on average. Sometimes a little more, sometimes a little less. I went through that quest last year and gave $4800 for a bone stock and very solid '87 with 148,000 miles on it. That was the best deal I could find. I saw quite a few that were over $6000. Keep in mind this was in Colorado.

Good Luck!!

If you do go with the earlier model, look for the 87 model.Thay already have the fuel injection, and believe me,you'll miss it if you dont.

I personaly went with the mid 80's gmc since there wasn't any computer crap under the hood. I wanted a truck I could work on myself, you know, change the plugs, oil, carb.,any old thing I want. NO computer required. I even went to the extent of taking the a/c out. It didn't work to good anyway. All I need is the engine to start,the heater to heat, and my radio to work. Talk about freedom from the machine!

MIKE.S 84GMC,454

Alot of 305's [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif[/img] in the mid 80's [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/mad.gif[/img]
I agree if that's what you want, then get an 87! it should have a fuel injected 350. Which is "THE" major improvement in "dependability" and "Horsepower" over ALL the other 80's trucks.
I too use to hate the computer controlled engines, But I just didn't understand them, but really you can do all the same stuff you always could, just now there are a few sensors you need to know about, but that's about it. Actually the early 80's engines had SO many vacuum lines and vacuum controls on them, is was hard to find the engine, and most of them were molded and changed size from one side to the other YUCK what a PITA those were!!! Anyway the computer is not a big deal and the engines from 87 and up have a fraction of the number of vacuum line and controls. I think you should just stick with the truck you have! and straight axle it if you want to!

well i kinda have a question related to this topic - i myself have an 89 silverado and want to run 35s. i was all set to buy the rancho kit (ive already got a 3" body) and it was gonna be great, well im holding off for now because i dont want to blow all my money and wont have time to work during school this year. anyhow - all this talk over the past few months about straight axles and IFS has scared me. my question is this: are IFS really THAT weak?? my truck is mostly a street truck and more sand than mud. between the beach and sand dunes around here i play in them a lot more than mud and when i do get mud, it is just sloppy and nothing really deep. i wanna know if i dont wheel my truck hard will the IFS be ok?? wanna find out before i sink about 2000 into it (im gonna regear too) thanks so much yall and sorry for another novel...

Mike ~
[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img] Chevys Rule! [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

MPH, 2 of my friends with Z71s have broken frontend parts while running 35s, and that was running in the sand, taking it fairly easy. I'll put it this way, If you put the 35's on the truck, you could literally say "OK, I'm gonna break a CV joint now", and then do it within a few minutes, not even driving all that hard. They eventually learned how to avoid the breakage in the sand, and that is - if the front end comes off the ground AT ALL, take your foot off the gas. Period. A couple of times the front end came off just a few inches and when it came down - POP, there goes a CV. Problem with that in the sand is that it generally means you have to back down the dune and try it again.

<font color=green>Evan</font color=green>[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]

<font color=red>- Contagious Off-Road -</font color=red>