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4x4mike 04-01-2004 10:05 AM

U joint parts
1 Attachment(s)
Ok I need to buy all the small parts for my axle. I have never woked on my joints and have no idea what I have. It is pretty hard to find info on a SF.
My current set up uses a 3010 or 3011? I think, these are numbers that I got off of Autozones web site.
The 14 bolt SF uses 2-0053BF, these are part numbers. Either way they are different. How do I get my current driveshaft to work with my new axle? On the AZ website they also have u joint retainers. Are those the straps that hold the joint together in the yoke and shaft. I don't have the 4 bolts or the retainers, if those are them. Trouble is that I cannot find which ones I need (size), and they boneyards are picked clean. Thanks for all of the help.;%20Yoke.jpg

4x4mike 04-01-2004 10:11 AM

Re: U joint parts
Second picture is of the 14 bolt. I still need the 4 bolts and the straps. Oh and the u joint.

u4ia4 04-01-2004 10:54 AM

Re: U joint parts
when i went to the sone to get a u-joint i brought in what was left of my original u-joint and the bad one that i had i nthere. i had an afttermarket drivesahft, so i had to get an adaptor u-joint. basically just has 2 different sized endes. as for the bolts and straps, the bolts are going to be easy enough toi find at any hardware store. the straps, i dont know about. you might want to call your local GM dealership and ask them. they cant be more than a few bucks for them.

4x4mike 04-01-2004 12:08 PM

Re: U joint parts
Are these adaptor u joints easy to come by? The reason I ask is to save leg work but also wondering if I should buy 2 just in case.

wrath 04-01-2004 01:41 PM

Re: U joint parts
Help! (the Motor Mite company) has the yoke straps and bolts. Don't use regular bolts in the yoke.

The yoke on the 14SF looks suspiciously like a 1330 yoke. Your truck should have a 1310 yoke which takes Neapco 3011.

To find out what yoke is on the 14SF measure the distance between the cap locators and then measure the diameter of the caps required to fit the yoke.

If it's a 1330 yoke and you're planning on rebuilding this axle I'd see about buying a 1310 yoke for it. The yoke will pay for itself the first time you change universals (because you'd be running an expensive 1330-1310 hybrid). If you aren't planning on getting new gears then maybe you don't want to deal with a new yoke.

4x4mike 04-01-2004 04:13 PM

Re: U joint parts
First off let me say that you guys rock. This board could get pretty quiet sometimes but when I need help I always get it.

Alright, so like Peacock said, I will need a hybrid type of u joint. Where is a good place to research these or do you suggest a brand. I have never bought a u joint but people tend to have favorites, maybe the hybrid are only made by certain companies.

Next, Wrath, you said to measure the distance between the cap locators. Are the cap locators the little nubs that stick up (2)? And would the diameter that I'd be measuring be on the plane that is 90 degrees frokm those nubs?

Thanks again for all the help.

muddybronco 04-01-2004 07:57 PM

Re: U joint parts
I've always been a Spicer non-greasable joint fan, but I became a fanatic when I did this without harming the joints at all:
<img src= height=320 width=480>

They hold up really well, and I've never managed to break one of their joints. Swapping to a 1310 yoke would open up your options, but I'm not sure how cheap you can find those.

wrath 04-01-2004 08:45 PM

Re: U joint parts
Yeah, between the nubs. If it's got the same cap size as the one in your truck and is wider then it's 1330.

I recommend reading this:

I'm confusing myself right now but I forgot about the Saginaw S44 universal.

u4ia4 04-01-2004 11:37 PM

Re: U joint parts
well i almost always agree with wrath on here, but on this one i don't. he seems to know more about the part numbers for this than i do, but i know that its not worth changing the yoke for (in my opinion) my hybrid u-joint ran me for all of 12 bucks. for that, i couldnt justify changing the yoke.

anyhow. muddy is right. i aske my girlfriend about the u-joints and she said that they only use spice non-grasables in their test. she worked for dana axle corps in the mechanical testing division. her job was to shear axles and break axle tubes and what not to see how much they could take before braking. she said the greasables were alright, but they always failed first. i used to think greasable was best, but having the grease zerk in the "X" of the U-joint weakens it.

one line of thinking is that you want a weak u-joint so that breask instead of the axles. with a 14SF you wont ahev to worry about that. i have wrecked greasable u-joints, but when i had a non-greasable in my Z-71 i twisted the input splines off in the tranny, grenaded the rear end, warped the D-shafts, sheard an axle, grenaded the T-case, and all the u-joint did was twist a little bit. thats saying a lot for somethign that small. all i run now is the non-greasable spicers.

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