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post #1 of (permalink) Old 02-27-2004, 06:58 AM Thread Starter
 
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Relpacing calipers

I for a long time now I have been replacing pads and rotors about every 5 months on average. I has been really getting on my nerves and I decided to bleed the systems some time next week because I am getting some bad pulsing from the brake pedal when stopping. I know that there is alot of stuff that can get snapped off when you are trying bleed the system, so my question is this. The caliper replacements are dirt cheap for my truck, and I am thinking about replacing them for the front. How much of a PITA is is to replace the calipers with new ones. Also for the rear how much of a PITA is it to replace the wheel cylinders in the event that I snap the screw?

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 02-27-2004, 08:02 AM
 
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Re: Relpacing calipers

Every 5 months?!? You must be running really soft pads or riding those brakes like an old lady! [img]images/graemlins/deal.gif[/img]
Ok, just kidding about teh old lady part [img]images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

In my experiences, the brakes should last a lot longer. Are you replacing them when the pads are used up, or when they start making noises?

If you can bleed your own brakes, changing calipers should be a piece of cake. All you really gotta do is disconnect the old one, connect the new one to the brake line, and bolt in place. I haven't done it, but don't see why it wouldn't be an easy thing to do.

But really, you should try and figure out why you are goign through brakes so fast. Do you have pads left on the drums in the rear? Are they properly adjusted? Most people don't think the rears do much of anything, and compared to the fronts they really don't, but not having them work at all will really affect how your brakes feel/work.

Anyways, good luck, im sorta not awake so i hope that made sense! [img]images/graemlins/40BEER.gif[/img]
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 02-27-2004, 08:33 AM
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Re: Relpacing calipers

Bad pulsating can also be a sign of warped rotors and/or drums. You make want to have that checked out as well before putting on a new set of pads and calipers.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 02-27-2004, 09:13 AM
 
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Re: Relpacing calipers

When you say wheel cylinders, you are talking about the rear brakes, right? I have replaced those and it really isn't that bad. Changing a caliper is about the same difficulty. You need to disconnect the caliper/cylinder from the truck and plug the line into the new part. It is smart to clamp off the front line if you can, this keeps stuff from spraying everywhere. Try getting quality calipers and pads.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 02-27-2004, 09:38 AM
 
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Re: Relpacing calipers

front caliper is just as easy as replacing the pads themselves. you just have to discoinnect the brake line and then connect it to new caliper. when you have everything back together you'll have to bleed the system. as for rears, replacing the wheel cylinder involves taking out 2 mounting bolts, and the brake line of course. the hard part is dealing with all of the springs and cliops on the drums. not a hard thing todo just takes a bit of time and some grunting.
the hardest part of all this is that the bleeders and brake lines oftensieze up. you'd be well served tospray some penetrating oil on them prior to working on it. PB blaster is my penetrator of choice, but everyone has their own preference
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 02-27-2004, 10:21 AM
 
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Re: Relpacing calipers

Here's a good one for you. I thought I had a pulsation in my brake system on my Grand Am. It ended up being a bad shock allowing one of the rear tires to bounce during braking. This is most likely not your issue, just wanted to throw it out.

Replacing caliper and cylinders is pretty straight forward as everyone else has stated. Take your time and bleed the brakes. Make sure on the rear, you get everything back the way it was. And definitely get your drums and rotors checked for out-of-roundness.

One thing most brake shops won't tell you is you don't have to get the drums/rotors turned every time you do a brake job. It may be time to replace them if someone else has been doing your brakes. They're not overly expensive.

Good luck
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 02-27-2004, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Relpacing calipers

I use to drive like a bat outta hell bu have since slowed down and come to normal stops. (There must be a difference from 22 to 23)

The first two times that I changed the pads there was very little pad left and the front rotors were warped. Once I changed them there was no more "shimmy when you stop" when you stop. The past 2 times the pads looked pretty good but the truck was starting shimmy to a stop. When the pads were changed that time the shimmy went away and came back in about 2 months (see the pattern). Now that you mention it I have never done anyting to the drums. I did not think that there could be a chance that they could be warped. With the way the problem comes back after I change the fronts I am now wondering if when the fronts get worn a bit and the rears start picking up some of the stopping work if that is where I am getting the shimmy. Any thoughts on that?

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 02-27-2004, 12:15 PM
 
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Re: Relpacing calipers

Manufacturers are making the drums and rotors thinner to reduce weight but I don't think that is your problem. The rear brakes should be self adjusting so if they're not working properly, the front would wear out faster. Maybe try replacing the brake hardware in the rear? Did you check the rear drums for roundness?

Good luck
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 02-27-2004, 02:27 PM
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Re: Relpacing calipers

calipers are cake - changed mine out. you need to get good quality pads, rotors and shoes...i like Wagner HDs...they last.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 02-28-2004, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Relpacing calipers

The Verdict is in...the rear brakes needed to be adjusted. I was out looking at some houses today and the shimming got worse. I got fed-up and went to a local Midias that I have been to before. The guy got the wheels off and when he pulled at the drum it came right off. He said immediately "
the rears need to be adjusted...". So after he adjusted the rears he had to re-machine the rotors because they were warped to death. The last thing I had done was a brake bleed and now the HOE is stopping on a dime. I was told that the calipers were good and did not need to be replaced at this time. Thanks to everyone for the feedback.

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