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post #1 of (permalink) Old 02-11-2004, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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replacing in tank fuel pump

I have to replace my fuel pump for my 92 GMC K1500 w/350. It is the in tank pump. I know I have to get to the pump from the top. Does anyone have any hints to drop the tank and installing the new pump?
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 02-11-2004, 10:06 PM
 
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Re: replacing in tank fuel pump

Do it with an empty tank [img]images/graemlins/40BEER.gif[/img]
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 02-11-2004, 11:34 PM
 
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Re: replacing in tank fuel pump

I did it with my 32 gallon tank full to the top... I put a ratchet strap at each end of the tank. Disconnected all the hoses and wiring and took off the straps that hold it in place. Then slowly let the ratchet straps down till the tank was on the ground. Then used them to winch it back up to place.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 02-11-2004, 11:53 PM
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Re: replacing in tank fuel pump

When me and my friend did his we just took off the 6 bolts that hold on the bed, un-did the gas filler neck, and disconnected the tail lights and left the tank in place. It was pretty easy that way. There were 3 of us and that was enough to lift the bed up and out of the way.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 02-12-2004, 12:11 AM
 
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Re: replacing in tank fuel pump

there are three methods for doing this. if you have a welder and the ability to use it, i would go buy a rubber mat for the bed to cover and make it prety afterwards. you cut a hole in the bed over the fuel pump, remove and replace pump, and then weld hole back in place making sure to weld in supports for the hole. i used this method on a full sized bronco with a full 40gal tank. too big for me to drop by myself and it has carpet on the inside so it didnt matter anyways.

tank drop method:
it is easiest with a near empty tank. doable with a single person with 3/8 or less of a tank. spray hanger straps with penetrating oil (PB blaster works VERY well). remove bolts. the tankwill drop down giving you enough access to change the pump. you will need to remove the screw holding the fill tube to the fill hole in the bed, or you can remove the hose clamps that hold the hose onto the tank.
if the fuel level is high, then the ratchet strap method that jason mentioned works well. you simply use a strap in the front and rear of the tank. snug them up, then remove the hanger strap bolts. then slowly lower the tank down.

bed lift method.
Remove bolts holding the drivers side of the bed. and loosen the bolts on the pass. side. this will leave you enough room to work on the fuel pump when you tilt the bed. you will have to disconnect the tail lights on the drivers side in most cases. this method works if you have one person and are sneaky with using a jack or uing chain falls/pulley system to lift side of bed. please support it while underneath to prevent bodily crushing.

the hardest part of the fuel pump replacement is removing the ring that secures the top plate of the pump. (this terminoligy is lacking, but you will see what I"m referring to when you get there) you must use a bladed punch (large common screwdriver can work) and you'll have to tap the ring around to loosen it. the problem is that the ring is made of cheap steel and is liekly rusted and weak. I've found that if you clamp a pair of vise-grips to the tabs, you can tap on vise-grips with a hammer and this prevents breaking the tabs off. it is advisable to use an oil/gasoline resistant pipe compound to reseal the top plate when you replace it.

this is really a pretty simple procedure that will takea couple of hours if you're not in a really big hurry. since you are going to smell like gasoline anyways, its a good time to replace the fuel pump.

there are some tiny details i didnt mention here to make thigns easier, but it gives you the basics of how to do it. I assume i dont need to saym its a good idea to disconnect negative terminal to prevent any sparks, and no smoking while working on it.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 02-12-2004, 10:21 PM
 
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Re: replacing in tank fuel pump

After reading the above post I'd like to make a couple comments. Oh, first off I am in Ohio, and the strap & lines were really corroded from the salt.

<ul type="square"> [*]Cutting a hole in the bed to provide access to the sending unit is not a bad idea, but I'd make a nice BOLT DOWN cover using stamped aluminum. That way you can remove it to change the pump out the 2nd/3rd/4th time. [*]I did the bed removal method, but in hindsight, I would have just pulled the bed back enuff to work, woulda been easier to deal with when I was ready to bolt it back on. You need a 18 MM socket for those bolts.[*]If you end up dropping the tank, you WILL break the front strap bolt. It's likely too crusty to loosen (mine broke), also watch the hard lines from the sending unit to the rubber hose. I tried to remove mine and kinked the line requiring a new sending unit. It's also CHEAP to buy a long brass drift to loosen the gas tank locking ring. Be safe and DO NOT use a screw driver![*]Finally, make sure you do not kink the other gas lines as they are a be-otch.[*]Get a new gas filter too.[/list] [img]images/graemlins/RockOn.gif[/img]
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 02-13-2004, 12:07 AM
 
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Re: replacing in tank fuel pump

Still don't understand why everyone removes the bed... It took me all over 20 minutes to pull the tank, replace the pump, and install the tank. Whereas, when I pulled the bed a few weeks ago, it took me an hour just to get all the bolts and wiring out and unhooked... Not to mention find help on lifting the thing off.

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 02-13-2004, 06:26 AM
 
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Re: replacing in tank fuel pump

primary reason most people do the bed thing is that the tank is too full and the straps are too rusty. i always do the tank methord or in some casesvut out the bed. but some folks like to raise the side of the bed. I"m not sure why, but i dont know why some people like to write with their left hand and rub it all over fresh ink. its just the way some folks do it.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 02-14-2004, 12:21 AM Thread Starter
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Re: replacing in tank fuel pump

Thanks for the info everyone. I read the post about snapping the t-bolt after I snapped it!! I would have prefered to lift the bed but I was alone, I have a fiberglass topper and a slide in bed liner....too much to deal with by myself. I think I will make an access panel out of plate for the next time!! It was definately my problem!! I have a 383 stroker that is less than a year old. I was pulling my hair out, what's left, trying to figure out why it stalled under load. [img]images/graemlins/cussing.gif[/img] It now runs like a 383 should!! [img]images/graemlins/40BEER.gif[/img]
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