Hi everyone. This is my first post but I've been following the topics posted here for a while. This is a great resource, probably the best site I've seen for S10's. I drive an '85 Blazer 4x4 with a 2.8 Carb, automatic.
I have a question about emission gear. I have basically no emission gear left on it from the previous owner and I'm trying to make it as efficient as possible. I guess what I need is to figure out how to connect the vacumn lines. Any ideas? And I have a question for the Sandman - how's your manual 4X4 actuator project working for you, it sounds like a good idea.

Greg

<font face="Comic Sans MS">From what I can tell, my fuel mileage has actually improved after disconnecting/removing the remainder (I had the same issue as you, previous idiot oops I mean owner doing a half @ssed job of removing the emissions junk) of the emissions crap. I'm not sure if it's as good or better than it would have been right out of the factory but I would say either all or nothing would have to be much better than a partial system hooked up. About the only vacuum lines I have left are the ones operating the vac. 4x4 system, the PCV, power brake booster, and the vacuum advance. Much cleaner looking engine compartment, and much easier to get to things. Still have to get rid of those air tubes, they're currently sealed off with a pipe cap on each one. But if you would prefer to re-hook those lines, I think the only place you're going to find a real diagram and explanation of what goes where and why is in the original factory service manual. Haynes and Chiltons don't cut it at all... [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]

My mechanical linkage setup is still in the planning/development phase, mainly due to the Michigan weather not acting properly and a bike shop friend not getting me some info on some bike gear shifters that might have the right throw length plus part #'s for it. When I do get the project finished (It's looking like sometime in either April or May), I'll take plenty of pictures and do a writeup on it. [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

Actually I might as well describe the setup.
I intend to use the original cable, the bracket that it's on, and remove every vacuum line I can find with the 4x setup. Plug the place in the t-case that the switch plugs into. I will use a gear shifter mechanism from a bicycle, and mount secure the cable from the bike shifter to the cable that actuates the front axle mechanism. The shifter mechanism will be secured to the t-case shift lever on my version because this is a place where it'd personally be more comfortable for me. Well out of the way so it won't bother me, but still right out in the open where I can get to it easily when I need it. [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img] The specifics will be discussed later once I have it completed, along with photographs.</font>

Tim "Sandman"

ORC Land Use columnist:
My February article on ORC
(I'm finally back)

Yeah, that sounds about right. I still have some vac lines on the carb which I'm debating on plugging off. You're right about the weather, I'm in Nova Scotia and we get nearly everything you folks get in Michigan. I gotta get a garage.
It sounds like your on to something with the actuator plan.
I hope it works out for you, and I'm glad you'll be putting it on the website.

I know what you mean about the Chilton's manual. When we did the motor swap (2.8 to 2.8=mistake) in my old 84' truck, I had enough vacume for the truck to run but that's about it. I pulled it nose to nose with my Dad's 84' S-10 Blazer and ran the lines the same as his. I kept everything though, I didn't remove any emmisions equipment. (I thought aabout it but knew I was selling it after college)

"Ride it like you stole it!"