Zr2 Ball joints,CVs and idler arm?? - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 02-07-2001, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
 
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Zr2 Ball joints,CVs and idler arm??

Hi guys,

1- Does anybody know if the ball joints,CVs and idler arm of a Zr2 are the same as a Normal 4x4 S10.
2-And also, is it right when people say that increasing to 33" or 35" on an s10 (Zr2 in this case) will were out the ball joints and other stuff [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img](idler arm,CVs, etc...) prematurely.
3- If so, do we have to change them often? How bad is it?

Thanks guys

Yannick
1999 Zr2 4.3L 31x10.5 BFG M/T's
Zuk in the horizon...
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 02-07-2001, 11:11 PM
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Re: Zr2 Ball joints,CVs and idler arm??

IF you do have to replace the ball-joints, get MOOGs. So you won't have to do it again as its a PITA! For your first question either call or go online to a parts store and look up them for a regular 4x4 S-10 then a ZR-2 and compare part#'s. I'm not sure what year for sure that GM started, but some 4x4 S-series have "push-in" style CV shafts instead of the 6 bolt flanged ones. The CV's are cake compared to the ball-joints! The idler's pretty simple also-but there again go for a MOOG part so it'll last. Good luck.
A.Smith

1989 S-10 4x4 4.3L/700R-4, 3.08s, 31" Sport Kings
1989 Blazer 4x4 4.3L/700R-4 3.42s,235 Sport Tracks
1985 S-10 4x4 Soon to have 3504BM/TH350/D44/14FF, 35" Boggers
post #3 of (permalink) Old 02-07-2001, 11:22 PM
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Re: Zr2 Ball joints,CVs and idler arm??

I'm not sure if the same joints are used in reg 4x4 and ZR2's, but if you do replace the ball joints, get Moog joints. I had my joints replaced on my 93 S10 4x4 back in October and they were bad by Jan. (NAPA joints). The mechanic said they were bad from the factory and replaced them for free in Jan. (I don't know if I believe him or not) I also had my idler arm, pitman arm and pretty much my whole steering system replaced as well..some $650 worth! I don't know if it was from normal wear and tear (not to mention my weekly off roading drives) or because of my lift. (2in body w\torsion bars raised and 2in add-a-leafs in the rear) I've had the truck for 5 yrs and this only happened 2yrs after the lift was put on, so I don't know if that really caused it or what. I think it was the torsion bars being raised. Good Luck!

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 02-08-2001, 10:41 AM
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Re: Zr2 Ball joints,CVs and idler arm??

To answer your second question yes going to 33's+ will ware out those components faster.. The reason is the tires are a lot heavier and those joints are not made to run at the higher angles than stock for long.. I have been running 33's for about 8 months now or so and have only changed out the rod ends but I need to get in there and do the ball joints upper and lower.. (Just dont have $200 in parts right now or time) I have MOOG's in there and they lasted 4 years of hard life.. Life depends on how hard you run them and the quality of the parts.. Buy the best because they will last longer.. You save yourself time in installing those joints once every 5 years than 3 times with Joe Shmoes brand..


-Troy '<font color=red>WeaZle</font color=red>' McCarty

post #5 of (permalink) Old 02-08-2001, 10:00 PM
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Re: Zr2 Ball joints,CVs and idler arm??

Joe Schmoe being most parts stores like NAPA. I know cause I used to work there and see their crap! SOme stores will have the MOOG parts under a different name, though. The old motto really makes sense now, "pay a little more now, or a lot more later". MOOG chassis parts are worth every penny. Even the O.E. GM is cheap compared to them.
A.Smith

1989 S-10 4x4 4.3L/700R-4, 3.08s, 31" Sport Kings
1989 Blazer 4x4 4.3L/700R-4 3.42s,235 Sport Tracks
1985 S-10 4x4 Soon to have 3504BM/TH350/D44/14FF, 35" Boggers
post #6 of (permalink) Old 02-11-2001, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Zr2 Ball joints,CVs and idler arm??

Thanks for the info guys, I'll check those parts.

Yannick
1999 Zr2 4.3L 31x10.5 BFG M/T's
Zuk in the horizon...
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 02-13-2001, 09:58 PM
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Re: Zr2 Ball joints,CVs and idler arm??

Been there, done that. I think I replaced my ball joints, tie rod ends, and idler arm on my `96 ZR2 back in about `98. I used all MOOG parts and haven't had a problem with them with at least 55k miles on them now. I run 32x10.50xR15 BFG M/T's.

I'm also not sure if the ZR2 ball joints are the same as the standard 4x4, but they probably are. I think the only substantial difference between the ZR2 and the 4x4 in terms of front suspension is the upper & lower control arms (which the ball joints fit into).

You'll need an air chisel or a good hand grinder to get the existing ball joints out, as they are riveted into the control arms at the assembly plant. You've got to take the rivet heads off and pound the rest of the rivet through with a punch and hammer. The new ball joints bolt back in with Grade 8 nuts and bolts. You'll need a front end alignment after you do the job.


<font color=blue>Daddy always said that a Phord is about as useful as a shovel with a rope handle.</font color=blue> [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img]
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