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post #1 of (permalink) Old 01-08-2001, 12:15 AM
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What carb should I get?

I have an '86 XJ with the chevy 2.8. I am getting horrible gas milage and I have pretty much narrowed it down to the carb. It has been rebuilt less than a year ago. I get black smoke when I idle (I have tried to adjust it and I also took it in to be adjusted) and the butterflys stick. (Which can be scary sometime if it stick at 3 grand) I have priced my options for replacement carbs. To get a "factory refurbished" Varijet it will cost $510. For a Weber 32/36 progressive 2 barrel with a conversion kit it will cost $411. Another option that I have been looking at is getting an Edlebrock performer 4b intake and putting a 390 4b holley on it. What should I do? I am going to purchase one or the other next friday the 12th. Any input on the pros on cons for either would be appriciated.
Thanks for the help,



Ben [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 01-08-2001, 02:24 AM
 
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Re: What carb should I get?

<font face="Comic Sans MS">Sir, sorry about not scanning that item I promised a little while back from Holley that they included with my rebuilt Varajet II carb, my scanner's been down. I will take it over to a friend's house and try to get it scanned this week for sure. I'm assuming you can see the little square adjustment knob on the front of the carb and it doesn't have one of those plastic limiting things on it. Have you tried running some carb cleaner through it? As to the butterflys sticking, have you tried spraying the linkage and the butterflies themselves with cleaner and perhaps even locate a stiffer throttle return spring.

I got my rebuilt Varajet II (done by Holley, came in a Holley box with plenty of doccumentation including how to track other problems down) from Pep Boys for somewhere around $400. If you drive it on any sort of steep hills, I think the stock varajet would be the best choice, any incline I've been able to put the truck to hasn't even phased it, just keeps running great, no threat of stalling or any such thing. I have no experience what-so-ever with Weber carbs. From information I've gleaned from the Toyota board, they (the ones with the Webers) have cold drivability problems, they can't drive them or the engines run horribly until the engine warms up due to the Weber. My Varajet II takes off great, I just have to wait the second or so for the oil pressure to come up and I can drive away and have the engine run great. Here's one link about the Toy people talking about the Weber I'm sure there was a longer thread talking about it, but I can't find it at the moment... [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]

And it ran great right out of the box, I didn't have to touch the settings on it at all, tossed the new gasket on (came in the box with the carb) and bolted it down. Haven't had to touch it since I installed it. [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

I'm not sure how the Edelbrock route would work but I would assume that a naturally aspirated 2.8 L doesn't need quite that many CFM. I think that Edelbrock option would be more suited to the 3.4L (bigger relative of the 2.8L, same bolt patter on bellhousing and such). </font>

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 01-08-2001, 06:11 AM
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Re: What carb should I get?

Sandman,
I have tried carb cleaner trough it in the gas. I have used the spay cleaner inside and out. I used a stiffer return spring. It worked but the problem was when I found one stiff enough my cruise control couldn't hold it. (I prefer having cruise control) [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img] I also have drippy jets. When it is idling I can see fuel dripping off of the jet. If I start my engine and then shut it off when it is still cold, I have to stick a screwdriver in the secondary to get it to start again. It will NOT start if I don't do that. When I pull the screwdriver out it, it is SOAKED in gas.
Yes, I do have access to the square adjustment knob. A hammer, A chizel, and a few bloody knuckles later; I got the steel plug out of it. The shop I had adjust it was going to charge me $170 do remove it!!!! It only took me a half an hour to do it my self with a dull chizel....
I don't have a PEP Boys in my area. I live outside of Boise Idaho. I have places like Smucks (Shucks), CarQuest, NAPA and all the little local parts stores. I guess I need to call some of the other places for prices. So far I have just called NAPA and Shucks. They seem to have the most availible parts for me.
If you have any more info for me, my ears are open.....
Thanks,

Ben [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
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