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post #1 of (permalink) Old 11-25-2000, 10:39 AM
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Rear measurement

I am measuring from thr ground to fender and am getting 38" inches on the passenger side and 37" on the driver side. The front are the same 37.25". My Question is why this is? What could be the cause" What is this going to screw up. Thanks for all the help. By the way I have my torsin bars almost maxed out, but dont think that will make a difference in the rear.

1995 S10 Truck, 4X4, Ext. Cab, 4.3 Vortec V6, 31/10.5/15 BFG TA's, American Racing rims,3" Trailmaster Body Lift, Westin Side Bars.
Ryan Sharpe.......Denver, CO.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 11-25-2000, 12:01 PM
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Re: Rear measurement

My truck leans the same way, and i've seen lot of other S-10's do it too. My guess is that with the gas tank being mounted on the inside drivers side framerail (20 gal of gas is pretty heavy), and the weight of the driver, the drivers side rear spring wears out faster. Just a hunch

The Duke

I'm old enough to know better, but still too young to care.
post #3 of (permalink) Old 11-25-2000, 12:45 PM
 
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Re: Rear measurement

<font face="Comic Sans MS">I believe you are correct. Eventually my plans include putting the gas tank in the middle where the spare tire used to be, that way it'll help even things out a bit, or even change it just to the right side, since I rarely have a passenger, this could help to balance things out a bit more. [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] Just some random thoughts...

Petroleum has an average density of 45lb/ft^3.
So
20 gallons * (.13368 ft^3/1 gallon) * 45 lb/ft^3 = about 120 lbs of gasoline in a 20 gallon tank.

When that's added to the weight of the driver the generaly accepted theory is that it's a partial cause of the sag on the drivers side.

</font>

Tim
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 11-26-2000, 02:07 AM
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Re: Rear measurement

The coolest and best thing you could do is run a 2DR Blazer gas tank in the rear. It's not like a BIG spare will fit underneath anyway. All you have to do is cut out the side where the tank flap or fill door is and move it to the rear like a Blazer. Then take the patch you cut out and mig or tig it back in the other hole. Then get a bed mounted spare tire rack that is so cool too. I've thought this thru before. Also, talk about the weight transfer in the rear too!!! And solves running a dual exhaust and on and on. I think it's a good idea. And with a body lift, you can mount the tank high in the framerails in the rear too. I have a truck and a Blazer and have compared many times. I might raise my tank up 2 inches in the ZR2 now that I have a body lift. Also another option is to locate a tank with the rear centered filler neck like from a Camero or Chevelle. But a 2Dr Blazer tank will be a direct bolt in. You can always get a brand new one from JC Whitney or somewhere for $100 and take it to a shop and have the filler neck moved to the rear. It's an 18 Gal tank and plenty. I plan on doing this one day if I really build a truck. I hate that tank on the side of mine and yes it leans too. Just think like I said of the weight transfer for traction centered in the rear? To me that makes it worth the $150 and time to do it.

Tom "Deep Sea Diver" Brantley
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 11-26-2000, 11:22 AM
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Re: Rear measurement

Re-measured the hights again and they are RF 37.75 RR 37.75 LF 37.75 LR is 37.25 only 1/2 inch lower but my tank is full and never thought about that. So I think my springs are fine. Thanks for all the responses though.


1995 Extended Cab Truck, 4X4, 4.3 Vortec V6, 31/10.5/15 BFG AT's, American Racing Rims/8"/Neutral, 3" Trailmaster Body Lift, Westin Side Bars.
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