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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2000, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
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Warn add a leafs

Okay, I know you guys have used different brands of add a leafs, and I have a question or 2. I talked to someone about the TMaster add a leaf yesterday that just got his on at my ZR2 site on a pickup. He said it was a short leaf that goes on the bottom of the pack. Then I read something about ProComp that said the same thing. I thought that most add a leafs went between the eye spring & the second spring. There is a guy on here that tried the Warn and said he got good lift (3")and I know where to get them, but I don't want a 10" bottom spring that's arched to H*** and cuts a hole in the bottom of my bottom spring. My ZR2 Blazer in all companies I've called says their add a leafs won't fit at all. Can someone PLEASE do a comparison from their Reg 4x4 Blazer and/or a 4x4 Truck for me ASAP? My eye spring is 52", 2nd spring is 41", bottom spring is 28". The 2nd and 3rd spring set #2 is 5.5" from the front eye, #3 is 11.5" from the front eye. I'm ready to get the R&R A arm kit now and need to raise the rear at least 2.5" to match the front or I'll be squatting 4-5" in the rear. If I could find a welder and shop to use then, I would do a spring over, but can't, so I have to go add a leafs for now, Tom.

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-14-2000, 12:36 AM
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Re: Warn add a leafs

Diver, I dont know if this is any help to you, but a while back before i got my blazer I was lookin at a ZR2 and it sure did look like the leaf packs in the back were different on a ZR2 than a stock blazer. If memory serves correctly they were arched more, and it seemed like there were more leaves in there too. Again it has been a while but Im pretty sure thats right.

Ryan

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 09-14-2000, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Warn add a leafs

They probably are arched more, but I only have 3 leaves. That's why I thought I could add a extra leaf. I figured stock has more. Guess I'll check the dealership on that, thanks though, Tom

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 09-16-2000, 07:57 PM
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Re: Warn add a leafs

I was down at the local gm dealer to see just what was different about the ZR2 and the ZM6. The ZR2 rear suspension (re: leaf springs) are completely different from my ZM6 . The ZR2 main leaf looks to be 4-6" longer than the ZM6 plus the frames are different. the front mount for your rear springs is larger and the frame is wider and the cross member that your front transaxle mounts to is lower giving you more lift as far as the add a leaf, it should mount between your last spring and your axle if you have concerns about wearing a hole through your spring try to find a very thin piece of neoprene plastic or a type of shim material about a one thirtysecond to a one sixteenth of an inch thick to put between the two springs to take up the wear-hope this helps-craig

post #5 of (permalink) Old 09-17-2000, 12:31 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Warn add a leafs

Thanks a lot for checking that out for me. Crazy, I went to the dealership today too! LOL I found out my springs are as thick as a Z71 too. I sit right at 3.5" higher than stock too in the rear, which confirms the factory specs of 1.6" in the rear. I have a 2" body lift so it all adds up. You say that the add a leaf goes between the between the last spring and the axle? I guess that I would need a spring over to have it that way. My rear end sits on top of the eye spring. I figured that if I did a add a leaf I could drill holes in the end and use the factory separator discs. I talked to another guy that put Tmaster add a leafs on his 98 ZR2 Truck. He said the same thing, it's a VERY short leaf that goes on the bottom. I'm going to just do an axle flip/ springover for free. I am going to re use my perches and U bolts and all. I called and found out I can rent a portable self contained welder for $37 a day. So, I'm going to do it myself here at home. I will get 3.25" out of that. I sit an 1.5" lower in the rear now, and the A arm kit will give me 2.5". Add the 2.5+1.5 & that's 4". SO, I'll still be lower in the rear by 1/2" which is perfect. I will be running 33's and 10" Weld wheels and be able to keep them under the flares too. I was going to try to run 35's, but I guess I'll stay with 33's so I can keep the 3.73 gears and save $1,000. And I will never rub or have to trim either. Tom

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 09-18-2000, 06:45 PM
 
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Re: Warn add a leafs

Tom,

Let me know how the spring over works out. I am very interested in doing that type of setup myself.

Thanks,

Clayton

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 09-18-2000, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Warn add a leafs

The spring over is a piece of cake. I did some rethinking today though. Randy at R&R said you'd have to keep the same rear offset wheels. I really want to run 10's and a 6.5 rear offset too. The only way I see to do that now is 16" wheels. That throws a $1000 kink in my plans too. A guy at the ZR2 site has 8.5 rims with a 5" rear offset and 32.11.50 BFG MT's and said his tires would be under with the same I want to do. But that's with stock A arms tooand just a body lift. I can get a 9x15 rim with a 5.5 rear, but that will be out to my flares. And that will put the tires out by 1.25" for a 33x12.50. I can go with the MTR tires 33x12.50 on 10's with that 6.5 rear offset, but would have to go add a leafs or they would probably fit the rear okay and the spring over would be too much. I was under the assumption like everyone else that we had 6" rear offset wheels. But after close measuring over the weekend they seem to be 5.5 or 5". For now, I'm going to order 2 different wheels from Summit and see how they work with no tire. A 10" rim and 9.75 tread will be where the rims are. If you wanted to go with a 8" rim, no problem to do it. You can get an 8" rim with a 5.5 backspacing from Weld fOR $169. The 10's are $199 ea. But that's only a 19lb wheel too. The 33x12.50 MTR is only 32.4 tall. I can get them on with a body lift only. The BFG is taller at 32.9".

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 09-19-2000, 02:43 PM
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Re: Warn add a leafs

I think the differences on the backspacing is how you meansure it. If you meansure to the outside of the lip it is closer to 6". If you measure it inside the lip is is about 5.5". The latter is generally how companys measure their wheels. Neither is wrong. I would call to be sure before I bought any wheel. Sometimes 1/2" is enough to cause problems.

16" rims may not be a bad idea. You could go with a 285/75. That 33x11.25" tire on an 8" rim may alleviate some of your width problems.

What size rims did you order? Did you call Weld? I tried reading their fitment guide and some of it really didn't make sense to me



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post #9 of (permalink) Old 09-20-2000, 01:13 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Warn add a leafs

Yea, I know how to measure. I haven't bought rims yet. Still deciding. I may go with a 9x15 instead. But a 10" rim will only be out in the front 1" so I may let it slide. The 16's for a set of 5 would only be $120 more but the the 16" tires will bust the bank! I would go with a bigger tire than a 285 though. It wouldn't be worth the swap then. I have a printout from Weld already. E-mail me private and I'll help you with a better fitment guide I have from somewhere else. I want a wider rim than 8" too. A 33x12.50 needs NO LESS than a 8.5 rim and the wider the better. I am going to order like 1 of each wheel I want and do a test fit before buying anyway.

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