Weazle, Sandman, et. all -- Wish list... - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
GM Small Trucks & SUV's All discussion of S-Class Trucks and SUV's

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of (permalink) Old 03-03-2000, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Posts: 2,135
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Weazle, Sandman, et. all -- Wish list...

hey guys, I made up a "short" list of things that need to be acquired/done in order to make a good lift kit. Let me know if you think I'm missing anything. All this is for a 3" lift:

Deaver Springs for rear -- longer and 2.5" high.
Spring Over Conversion?
Longer Control Arms -- upper and lower.
Relocate torsion bar mounts?
Uniball ball joints or similar.
Longer axle shafts -- Summers Bros., chromoly?
cut front axle flanges
Porche 930 cv joints (got with flange cuts)
Stronger bearing cages
Sway-a-Way shocks - x 4 (that way you don't need two Bilsteins per side).
Rear shock hoop -- through the bed and anchored to frame.
Relocated shock mounts on bottom?
Front shock hoops.
Limiting straps - one for each corner, "just before" it bottoms out.
Stainless Steel brake lines.
Larger torsion bars
Fiber glass fenders. Bigger bulge bigger opening.


I have to be missing something here...
Let me know!


J.R. [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img]
My Web Page
J.R. is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of (permalink) Old 03-03-2000, 01:06 PM
**DONOTDELETE**
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Weazle, Sandman, et. all -- Wish list...

Good list...
First don't do a spring over conversion. Opens up spring wrap. Keep the axle over. Go with a longer more arched spring and a longer shackle for more room for compression. Yes you will need a lower torsion bar mount. You can copy my Rancho one or go from a full size kit so we can use their t-bars also. Or just get rid of the torsion bars all together with the dual rate (500/250) coilovers up front. Uniballs or kingpins must be used for the angles, the stock are worth sh*t. Can you give more info on the stronger bearings. I think we need to goto the fullsize spindles/knuckle with their bearings. I think they are about 1.5" bigger. I would like to see a full size one to see if the stering locations and the ball joints are all in the same place. If your doing the shock hoop might as well fab a cross bar to connect them. With those big shocks you need the bracing. Have alot more room after a 2" body lift. Im thinking extending the upper and lower arms by 4". Don't know how much wider and lift it would add. Need all the angles and mesurements on paper to figure that out. The only other step im adding is im going to replace the 7.2 axle. Still looking into a very cut down Dana-44. with custome axle shafts. The availability for gears, lockers are huge compaired to the 7.2. Not to mention the strength of the pinion and shafts. With some high angle 930 CV's hangin off. Some one makes a ZR1 calaper and 11" (i think) cross drilled rotor conversion kit to bring this beast to a halt.

-Troy 'WeaZle' McCarty

post #3 of (permalink) Old 03-03-2000, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Posts: 2,135
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Weazle, Sandman, et. all -- Wish list...

Sounds like you put a lot of thought into this as well!

I am a little leery about changing out stuff on my front end, aside from the length of the arms and the ball joints. I have front AND rear ABS on my '98 with four-wheel disc brakes. I'm just wondering what other can of worms I might be getting into with that.

For the bearing cage, Off-Road Warehouse has a cage for the bearings to replace the existing one on the 930 CV joints. It's supposed to be chromoly and lasts a LOT longer than the stock one. It's actually just an option. They will cost an extra $100 a piece, "I think"...

have you considered using the Toyota front axles? They have a larger pinion bearing and still retains the 7.5" diameter. It might save you from having to change the position in relation to the engine (I bet it's very close already).

About the shock hoop. You are right. A cross bar would be a good idea, as long as you can get to the engine. Of course, another idea would be to put the shock mounts as part of an entire engine bay cage. That would be the more expensive, but safer route for the long haul. Would also add a lot of weight...

Let me know what you find out about the ZR1 caliper conversion though, it might make me less wary.

Lates.

J.R. [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img]
My Web Page
J.R. is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of (permalink) Old 03-03-2000, 02:03 PM
**DONOTDELETE**
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Weazle, Sandman, et. all -- Wish list...

Yep, a big can o worms with the ABS. Im thinking of just pulling it all. It does kinda suck when your rolling 33's. Lucky bastich with all disk brakes. :~P Found a site that had the conversion listed with price and a pic. Four caliper pistons!!! Can't find the site now. I think it was on s-series.org . Some one else told me to look into the Toy axles. That is still up in the dreaming stages. My first step will be regearing for my 33's. Because the front can only go to 4.10's thats what I will go with. Want 4.30's but can't for the 7.2. (hence the d-44 up front) I want new springs (Deaver or National),new gears, disk in rear and locker. Problem is we have the small (7.5/8 ring) carrier 10 bolt. The bigger is 8.5 ring in the full size and ZR2. Another problem with this axle is it has a c-clip retainer that holds the axle in. It makes the axle shaft week in the grove the clip is in. You brake the shaft here (weakest point) and it slips out. Not good on the trail or anywhere. So one option is to get a Dana-44. No c-clip, larger ring gear, disk brakes avail stock and aftermarket gears, lockers, axle shafts, HD u-joints, everything is made for it. You brake an axle you can swithch to 3WD and get home. Doing my reasearch now on the length. Don't want to cut the tubes from a full 60" length one and get new shafts ($250 a side!!!)Cj's might have what I need in length and just reweld the perches. Cost is the second main issue. The gears, & rebuild kit cost about $500 for the rear including labor. I should find a D-44 with 4:10's with disk for around that and can install it myself. Plus I have a wider selection of lockers available. ARB babee!!!!! Do the build up myself to save some money. All I got is time.....

-Troy 'WeaZle' McCarty

post #5 of (permalink) Old 03-03-2000, 04:42 PM
**DONOTDELETE**
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Weazle, Sandman, et. all -- Wish list...

hey Weazle,
that front bumper got my gears turning again, thanks.
ansure a few Q's for me : what's the story on dual rate coil overs
recommended places to learn more (might be slick w/a solid frontaxle)?
isn't the chunk on the pass side for CJ's(or am I thinking full size heep)?
early bronco d44's are suppose to be in the zone.
Check out Stainless Steel Brake Corp for 4pot calipers
how 'bout this on the d44: swap the bronco knucks
for chevy 2500 hd (large rotor) 6lug jobs w/cross over
steering(still d44). I had read an article where a guy shortened a
d44 in his garage (said it wasn't as hard as people think)
I'll try to find it again. Hey did the new t-bars help the alignment any???
later


HAWG WILD
<font color=red> ALL THOSE WHO WANDER ARE NOT NECESSARLY LOST </font color=red> [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img]
post #6 of (permalink) Old 03-03-2000, 06:12 PM
**DONOTDELETE**
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Weazle, Sandman, et. all -- Wish list...

Can't find any good info on dual rate coils but in a nutshell its two coils on a shock. One is rated at lets say 150 lbs and on at 500. Durring comression the 150 will compress its first inch then second then third till it gets to the rate of the second coil (500) then the second coil compresses its firts inch. Both are working at the same time and works like a progressive spring. Gets harder and harder to compress in stages. The two coil setup is much more changeable. I have only seen the dual coil design on a shock and not just by itself. Many of the racers use the solid axle with the daul rates on them in the rear. Check any class 8. Can any one say 4-link in an s-10 with 24" of travel. Bronco is what I was thinking for an axle doner and now im finding that CJ's might be in the width too. I think the bars did help with the alignment and did give 1" more lift but they are still out, but again alot better ( got what I wanted out of them). Running 33x12.5, this lift was not made to do it. Don't want to change lug pattern yet. Got good Centerlines I don't want to rid yet. Been talking with a buddy and we are going to cut and tap the inside of the top arms and take a big grade 8 and thread it in there with two locking nuts to hold it on. Good to have that adjustment there for my situation. A lot of the shops I talked to said go ahead and build your own axle if you got the time. Just don't rush it , follow instructions and anyone can do it.

-Troy 'WeaZle' McCarty

Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome