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post #1 of (permalink) Old 02-15-2000, 12:55 PM
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CV Boots

I am about to do the CV bootz on an '87 4WD.
Anybody done this?
Problems?
Hints?
THNX
Dan


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post #2 of (permalink) Old 02-15-2000, 12:59 PM
 
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Re: CV Boots

I'm going to be doing the CV's, as well as the ball joints, idler arm, pitman arm and all that crap when the weather gets warm and the snow gets put away for the season... [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img] [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img] That isn't any help to you what so ever though, sorry... [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]

Tim
"The_Sandman_454"

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img] '79 Suburban 4x4 454, 6" lift, 35x12.5s & '85 GMC S15 4x4
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 02-15-2000, 01:51 PM
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Re: CV Boots

Tim or anyone,
Have you done your own ball joints? How hard is it and do you need any special tools, puller or any thing?? How much time.. Might do mine this weekend..

-Troy 'WeaZle' McCarty

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 02-15-2000, 02:02 PM
 
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Re: CV Boots

It's not going to be as easy as I thought it would be at first... You must get a C-clamp looking thing for taking the load off the torsion bar so you can unhook it so you'll be able to remove the A-arms (it's available as a special tool, but I'm going to see if I can modify a regular C-clamp to work, shouldn't be too hard to make)... Oh, and you'll need to be sure to count the number of turns you make on the torsion bar adjuster, so you can get it set approximately back where it was before, so you can get it to an alignment shop... You will need a press if you're going to put new bushings on the A-arms.. I'm going to find a shop around here to press them in for me... You'll need a vise, and possibly a press to press out the old ball joints... You'll need a "pickle fork" a.k.a. ball joint seperator, and also a tie rod seperator (they're a bit different in size). I'm guessing a couple full 8 hr. or so days for the job... I haven't done it before... From what I understand, some were pressed in, and some were riveted in... I don't believe there's any way to change them on the vehicle... Might be a little different for a newer one, this is what I'm going to basically have to do for my '85 tho...

Tim
"The_Sandman_454"

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img] '79 Suburban 4x4 454, 6" lift, 35x12.5s & '85 GMC S15 4x4
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 02-15-2000, 03:44 PM
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Re: CV Boots

This has nothing to do with CV Boots, but after reading Tim's comments, I thought I'd write this just for those who haven't experienced it first hand. Replacing ball joints which are pressed in is [email protected] near impossible without the right tools. My wife's Sentra needed new tierods and lower ball joints a few months ago. Tierods were a piece of cake, ball joints a different story. After about two hours trying every thing I could think of (including numerous hits with a sledge hammer), I realized I was going to ruin the arm unless I got some special tools. I rented the "pickle fork" Tim was talking about and used it to get the arm away from the wheel (no problem once I had the fork). The pickle fork, however, does nothing for a pressed in ball joint. Of course I had to break the pickle fork and hit the arm a few more times with a sledge hammer before I figured that out. In the end, I ended up wasting about eight hours just to have to put it all back together and take it down to a tire center. I debated buying the press, but I figured the $120 parts and labor was much more cost effective than a $400 press. Of course, if a person plans on replacing a lot of ball joints, the press might be worth it. Also, don't let some shop tell you that you have to buy new control arms with ball joints already pressed in. They only say that because they don't have the press but still want the money. Some place should be able to press in new ball joints for considerably less than it costs for new control arms.

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img] Steven Fairchild [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img]
[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img] <font color=green> 96' S-10 4x4 </font color=green> [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img]
post #6 of (permalink) Old 02-15-2000, 04:11 PM
 
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Re: CV Boots

The place I got my tires at took notice of my ball joints, the idler arm, and such, and gave me an estimate of around $600 for all of that.. I picked up some Spicer (Dana) parts from Pep Boys, upper and lower ball joints, and the idler and pitman arms, I'll probably get some tie rods and new bushings for the A-arms as well... I'll still be way under what their estimate said, and I might even get myself a new press (figure since I'm saving all that cash on labor, I deserve at least one new toy... [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img])... I'm sure there's actually a ton of stuff that a press could be used for to simply quite a few projects... Especially if I ever get into stuff like tranny rebuild, and things such as that... [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]

(On a side note, remember the sledge hammer does have a few good uses... In high school, I used it for a "front fender removal tool" on a friend's car... A friend of mine brought his '79 T-bird into the auto shop, and we had a substitute teacher... The 12lb sledge wasn't the most effective tool I could think of to remove the fender, but it was the most fun tool I had at the time... My friend was right there watching, I asked him for permission and I think he hit me and called that a stupid question and said of course I could take off the fender with the sledge, he even brought the sledge out to me... [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img][img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img] When we got all the glass and stuff out of the car we got out the Oxy-acetylene torches and cut it into little pieces... That's the most fun I've ever had with a car... [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img] I'm not advocating this (at least if you don't have the permission of the owner of the vehicle)...)

Tim
"The_Sandman_454"

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img] '79 Suburban 4x4 454, 6" lift, 35x12.5s & '85 GMC S15 4x4
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 02-15-2000, 08:10 PM
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Re: CV Boots

A little more info. would help. I replaced my outer bootS with Slit bootS from napa after I cracked my Stock ones. Some people Say that Split bootS are worthleSS, but I diSagree. AS long aS you are careful and make a good joint, they will last aS long aS Stock type replacementS. The Stock type are juSt too big of a pain IMO. Don't get them from Advance or other cheape Store, becauSe thoSe are junk.

post #8 of (permalink) Old 02-16-2000, 08:09 AM
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Re: CV Boots

I did my CV boots a couple of years ago. 1st get a Haynes or Chiltons if you don't already have one. Of course the procedures never work according to the book. So here is what I found. The half shafts bolt to a flange coming from either side of your front diff. Loosen (not remove) these bolts first before jacking and removing your tire. They are torqued pretty good and having the tire on the ground as leverage to hold the shaft from spinning versus a prybar/screwdriver between two wheel studs to hold the shafts as the book says is much easier and only takes one person. Next the Haynes states that you need a deep 1 3/8 socket for the axle nut. My 89 actually used a 35mm so check with the parts store (they have a book on this) before you buy the socket. When doing mine I ran into the trouble of not being able to remove my half shaft fron the steering nuckle/hub. So what I actually did was remove my tire, caliper and disc. I removed the tie rod from the nuckle and I believe the upper ball joint from the nuckle. This allowed me to unbolt the half shaft from the front diff flange and pivot the nuckle and shaft out for access. I then dissassembled inner side. Cut the boot clamp, remove tripot housing, retaining ring and spider assembly. I cut the outer boot off and slid the new boot on from the inside then reassembled the inner side. Then pivoted the nuckle/shaft back in place and reassembled everything. The passenger side (I did it first) took me all day long for not knowing what to do and after much cursing and yelling I figured it out. The driver side only took about two hours once I figured it out and was pretty easy. Get a good set of tools, 1/2 inch drive works best, and of course everything is metric. I used a puller (about $20) to remove the tierod from the nuckle. And a trick to remove the upper ball joint from the nuckle (no room for the puller) is to take the nut off and use a hammer and hit around the the lug the ball joint goes through. Put a rag over the lug to prevent damage and start wacking. It will just pop out. I was pretty skeptical when someone told me this but it worked great. The only other tools I can think of are a crimping tool for the CV boot clamps (you can rent this from a parts store) and snap ring pliers for the spicer retaining ring. Sorry this is so long but I wanted to explain this as thorough as possible. If this seems confusing, get you Haynes and read through the procedures and pictures and what I told you should hopefully make sense. Good luck and hope this helps. Cheers, Marty

post #9 of (permalink) Old 02-17-2000, 10:46 AM
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Re: CV Boots

let me throw in my 2cents.first if your boots are shredded concider replacing
the complete cv axle assy w/a remanufactured unit(can you say lifetime warrenty)
as far as ball joints go(IF your NOT doing control arm bushings) the uppers are
rivited/lowers are pressed.Jack the truck up, put the frame on jack stands, remove
f/wheels take the cotter pin out the ball joint studs(u/l) back the nuts off 1(ONE) and
only 1(ONE) turn only, take your 5lb convincer(hammer) and give the spindle(where the stud
goes thru) a good smack,they will both pop because spring pressure is pulling them apart,
now support the lower control arm(BEFORE loosening the nut any more) the upper will
just flop around and the lower(supported) will stay put because all the weight of the truck.
for the uppers grind(easy way)/chissle(hard way) the rivits off and bolt the new ones down.
For the lowers you will need a ball joint press(the C-clamp thing tim was talking about,I think)
they can be rented from discount a.p. if it's your first time set aside most of the day just for that.
To do the Steering linkage you will need a PITMAN ARM PULLER as well as a pickle fork.
when you start messing with F.E. stuff under spring tension it can get hairy fast.
I personaly launched a coil spring 150'(jack slipped), thank god no one got hurt!!
like I've said before, I did this for a long time if anyone has specific questions feel free
to send me a message on the board or email at [email protected]
ps a clamp cannot take the stress of the torsion bars and will most likely break!


HAWG WILD
<font color=red> ALL THOSE WHO WANDER ARE NOT NECESSARLY LOST </font color=red> [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img]
post #10 of (permalink) Old 02-17-2000, 12:56 PM
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Re: CV Boots

Correct me if im wrong and you have done this but in the SM for the 4WD you don't need the press to get the ball joints out. But it did say for the 2WD you do need it. It just said drill out the rivits and they come right out. Also where would I get that torsion bar tention tool. And how much would it be?? Thanks for the 'convincer' idea....

-Troy 'WeaZle' McCarty

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