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post #1 of (permalink) Old 01-28-2000, 12:09 PM
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Helping a buddy\'s vertically challenged Blazer

Hi, I'm pretty new to the site, but I have been enjoying it immensely! I will be taking on a project in the next few weeks that some of you may be interested in and someone may have some info on that could help us out. A buddy that I work with wanted just a small lift (2 inches or so) for his '89 4X4 S-10 Blazer, but all he could find was 3-4 inches or more and at outrageous prices. He was going to go ahead and get one even though it was more than he wanted until I mentioned getting a pair of 2 inch blocks from Checkers (approx. $30) and cranking up his torsion bars to even out the front. I ran our idea past my dad (auto guru) and he did not see a problem as long as the A arms don't bottom out on their stops when the vehicle is jacked and the tires are just free hanging. He said we probably would not need longer shocks either, but he needs to replace his anyway so we will do the lift and then see if we need any more extention on the shocks. Another thing my dad mentioned that was a good idea was to figure out the angle and grind the blocks to a slight angle to better align the rear diff. This is probably an old trick to some of you, but it was the first time I had heard of it and it sounded alot better than repositioning and welding mounts. If this all works as well as we hope I will probably be doing the same mod to my '89 Jimmy in the near future (it's always better to learn lessons on someone else's toy!). Anyway we are Airmen in the US Air Force stationed at Hill AFB in Utah. We are enjoying the Rockies out here, but we are somewhat financially challenged and thought a few of you may be in the same boat and looking for a cheap lift option. If nothing else, it may tide you over until you can afford a more impressive lift!

"Wheeling is a family sport!"

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 01-28-2000, 01:17 PM
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Re: Helping a buddy\'s vertically challenged Blazer

Actually, blocks would lower the back 'cause the spring us under the axle. The only way to lift the back 2" is shackles and/or add add a-leafs in the rear. Any higher(4 in) requires a spring over conversion.

The front, alot of people tweek the t-bars. I never tried it because it causes the ball joints to wear out quicker and is harder on the CV joints. It would need realigned after any T-bar adjustments, I heard that if you crank them up a full 2" it can't be realigned properly (is this true?). It also hurts the ride because you use up most of the downward travel by cranking it up. Some people crank them up and don't report any problems, depends on who you ask. Your vehicle is 11 years old, so the front prob. sagged a little. I don't see why one inch would hurt. What do you guys think?
I guess my reasoning is if you crank up the front end and eat the CV's and ball joints, the money you would spend on repairs is a good chunk of a real lift. That is why I whimped out and got a body lift.

post #3 of (permalink) Old 01-28-2000, 03:43 PM
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Re: Helping a buddy\'s vertically challenged Blazer

I've got to agree with 88blazer... Depending on how far the torsion bar gets cranked (I'd say 1/2"-1" at the very most to i ncrease it) it will eat the CV's in a pretty big hurry... It can't be too good for the ball joints too...

Also, since the rear is spring under axle, so adding the blocks will drop the rear, not raise it... Spring over will get you quite a bit more lift than you want, unless you get an expensive lift kit for the front end (which actually lowers the front differential and torsion bars and things) spring over will be a lot more lift in the rear than you could even think of cranking the torsion bars to correct for... Even if it were possible to adjust them that far, the CV's would have a life expectency of about 1.5 minutes... [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img]

And with the cost of the axle shafts, ball joints, and probably other items, you're already pretty well on your way to having the lift kit paid for...

As a bit of a side note: I'm still interested in trying to replace the torsion bars with a set of coilover shocks, if anyone has any ideas, no matter how crazy they may sound, send 'em this way... [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img]


[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img] '79 Suburban 4x4 454, 6" lift, 35x12.5s & '85 GMC S15 4x4
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 01-28-2000, 04:13 PM
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Re: Helping a buddy\'s vertically challenged Blazer

Thanks for the info. I felt a little sheepish when you mentioned the springs being under the axle. I have known that (I should I just spent several hours under mine doing tranny work) but didn't even think of it. I have been calling around and found a place I can buy steel to manufacture my own shackles (since no one seems to sell them here) and we will go ahead and crank the torsion bars to see how high we can go without sacraficing driveline/suspension parts and still be able to get it aligned. Thanks for all the advice and I will add another post when we are done to let you know how it goes.


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