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post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-11-2001, 03:40 PM
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Getting into the speaker locations

ok i am putting in my previous sound system from my previous car in my 1996 Bronco EB, 2 Boston Acoustics 5x7s 2 Boston Acoustics 5x7 components for the front, 2 Boston Acoustics Pro series 12.5 subs, DD 9515d, Rockford Fosgate 800.2, Directed 1100D, and a Directed 500. how do i take off the panels to put in the speakers in the back, i got the grills off but i cant get to one bolt. do i need to remove the whole panel? also do the grills on the front doors come off or do i need to remove the door panels to get the speakers in there. i am asking all these Qs cause i am not very familiar with how Ford does these things, i have worked on other cars and trucks, but never on a Bronco. also is there any special i need to know when taking off the panels like the door panels that would be helpful. also i heard that one of the repair manuals like Haynes or chiltons has discriptions on how to take off the panels. is that right? thanks

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 12-11-2001, 07:08 PM
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Re: Getting into the speaker locations

i doubt the haynes tells how to take off the panels, but it's easy. just take out all the phillips screws you can see in the door panel, including the one in the recess in the "arm rest". my plastic clips are all gone, but there are probably some plastic clips you have to pop by kinda prying the lower half of the panel away from the door. Then you pull straight up and inch or so and then towards the front of the truck so that the door handles can slip out of their holes. Thats all i remember to it... and I dont think you can just take off the grills.

To the rear. I dont remember having any problems... just popped off the grills and replaced the speakers. Maybe yours is different from mine somehow (EB?)? I could see the entire speaker, the bolts (hex drive i think) and plenty of room to hide drugs too. You shouldn't have to take off the whole panel... which is a bitch and a half b/c you have to take off a bunch of the other panels too.


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post #3 of (permalink) Old 12-11-2001, 07:37 PM
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Re: Getting into the speaker locations

i did take off the rear grill and could not get to one of the bolts. i dont know what i am going to do about it. also the front has 6 1/2s right? what i am probably going to do is leave the factory speakers there for now and concentrate on the front stage- instead of BA comps looking at A/D/S 6 1/2 comps and a Directed 400 on them. what do you need to take off to get to that panel. also where should i run my powerwire from the battery to the back? also how big is the alt on it. it is a 1996 EB with a 351. i was looking at a 200 amp for about $225

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2001, 12:37 AM
 
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Re: Getting into the speaker locations

Deiaggie

Never had the pleasure of owning a 96 and I'm sure they must be a bit different than my 86, but I'll tell you what I had to do on my 86. On my 86 eddie I had no trouble getting the 4 rear speaker screws out and the factory speakers out.

I did take off the whole panel to get the headliner out though. You have to take the rear cargo trim top pieces off. This will allow you access to several hidden retaining screws that hold in the panel your speakers are in. Also the two pop off trim panels above each door as well as the upper seat belt retaining bolts.

I know from Steve83 that your 96s doors are seriously different than my 86s, but on mine all I had to do was reomve the panels, like Muddy already detailed perfectly, to gain access to the 6 1/2" round speakers in the doors. Yes, surprise, surprise there are not rectangular speakers behind there, they are round, but I doubt you'd have any problems putting your 5X7s in there.

My 86 came with a 65 amp alt and didn't seem to be cutting the mustard as my Denon amp kept cutting out like it was running out of power. I did put in a 130 amp unit from a 95 Mustang, using the tons of info available off the internet, but that wasn't the problem solver.

After I ran 6 gauge wire all the way from the battery, through the firewall, under the rug and into the console(where the amp is) I was all set. Equally important was a direct to battery ground wire to the amp.

Malcolm


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post #5 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2001, 02:34 AM
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Re: Getting into the speaker locations

To pull the door panel, pull the window switch panel screw & snap it out by pulling the front straight up. Remove the switches by pulling 3 screws & unplug the mirror switch, then drop all the wiring back down inside the door panel. Remove the front upper screw, the door handle screw, & the 6 screws in the carpet of the door pocket, then pry the panel out all the way around & near the door release handle. Reach behind & remove the light from its socket by rotating 90 degrees, then feed the window switch wires down & clear of the panel. Open the vent window just enough to get the latch clear, lift the panel out of the window slot, & feed it off the release handle. I doubt you can put anything bigger than 6.5" without butchering the sheet metal - check Crutchfield's application guide.

For power, start at the engine compartment fuse block - if you can add a fuse, that's the best, but you could tap the power lug on the side.

I think the standard alt was about 100A - ask a parts store.

If you have to pull the bedside panel, pull the back seat & the bedrail covers, and then all the screws all the way around the bedside panel. You can leave it hanging on the rear shoulder belts.


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post #6 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2001, 02:40 AM
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Re: Getting into the speaker locations

BTW, i think the fronts are 6", not 6 1/2". i could be wrong but I think i read that they were 6.5" but my 6.5" speakers wouldn't fit all the way in, so they kinda half-ass fit in there with some force. it could've just been the speakers, they were $20/pr new ;-) Mixed with the 4 10's, they actually sound fine, with a little mid bass missing, but at lower volumes the tweeters dominate and it sounds crappy.

you really dont need back speakers if you run some good power to some decent front speakers. i'm running 150 PPI watts to each of these cheap speakers and they handle it fine, and would be all i needed if they were built to put out a little more midbass. i would just cut the wires going to the rears if you're not going to upgrade them, at least your cd player will run cooler and you wont get any crappy sound mixed in. i still am baffled about how you cant get to those screws... your panels MUST be different than mine... time to look at eddie bauers on ebay


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post #7 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2001, 05:26 AM
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Re: Getting into the speaker locations

Hope this helps. I will be attaching jpgs. If you can't see them, I can always send them to your e-mail.

Mike

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File Type: jpg 14-620690-FRONTDOOR.JPG (65.4 KB, 5 views)
post #8 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2001, 05:29 AM
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Re: Getting into the speaker locations

next jpg for rear speakers.

Mike

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File Type: jpg 14-620691-REARSPEAKERBRONCO.JPG (61.9 KB, 4 views)
post #9 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2001, 02:11 PM
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Re: Getting into the speaker locations

thanks for the pics. according to Crutchfield they are 6 1/2s maybe the ones that you put in were 6 3/4s. i have never heard of 6, just 6 1/2s, 6 3/4, and 7s. i plan on getting A/D/S comps up front and run them with a Directed 400.

post #10 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2001, 02:12 PM
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Re: Getting into the speaker locations

where did you go through the firewall. i plan on using 1/0 gauge wire.

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