High-Wattage replacement sealedbeams - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
Ford 67-96 F-Series, 78-96 Bronco All discussions of 67-96 F-Series Trucks and 78-96 Broncos

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of (permalink) Old 11-15-2001, 12:42 AM Thread Starter
Veteran
 
BRONCOMANIA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: eustis , Florida
Posts: 1,444
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
High-Wattage replacement sealedbeams

Anyone using higher wattage headlights on the street? I just got my first ticket in over 15 years tonight taking my wife out to dinner for our anniversary for failing to yield the right of way(to a small town cop![img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif[/img])There were NO street lights and im new to this area, never saw the yield sign nor all those different color lights on that crown victorias roof. BTW, $80.00 will definitely ruin your appetite...

Anyways, my stock halo`s are what 35/55 watts? anyone using the 80/100 watt sealed beams on the road? I know sylvanias been making a cool blue bulb for awhile now but i hear they dont look too good. GE now has one, blue-ice(55/60 i think).The HELLAs at $40 each are just too much.

I dont want to blind oncoming drivers but i dont want to miss any more street signs either. Are the 80/100s too bright and/or do the 55/60s make much of an improvement? I gotta get my aux lights going also but cant use them with traffic.

WD40, didn`t you mention you had 80/100s in yours?

Thanks, Craig...

BRONCOMANIA is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of (permalink) Old 11-15-2001, 07:46 AM
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,147
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: High-Wattage replacement sealedbeams

Sorry to hear you got pinched

Sounds like an innocent mistake too. I'm using Sylvania ExtraVision halogens. They're one up on regular halogens and have the normal colour beams, just brighter.

Two things I did to improve them was the new 130 amp alternator conversion and I put the relays in so I could run the lights off the battery(fused of course.

The alternator conversion picked up everything in the truck including the headlights. I picked up an extra volt at the prongs which brought me up to over 12 there.

By the time I put the relays on I was getting 14.75 volts at the bulb !!!! Yes I've probably reduced the life of the sealed beams by 1/2 to three years instead of six, but who cares, as the difference is truly day and night. Also, not seeing the officer's reflective side tape, as he's sitting in that country lane with the radar on, will easily pay for a lifetime supply of headlights from the fine and insurance hike.

I even wired a third relay to power the low beams up even when the highs are on. I ran a seperate signal wire from the 3rd relay to the stock high beam socket so I could quickly disconnect it if I ever wanted(needed) to, yet still leave the other two relays powering the headligh's highs and lows.

The relays ensure no excessive power runs through the headlight switch at the dash. If anything goes wrong it's as simple as groaping around in the dark and pulling the new sockets off and plugging in the old sockets, which you pack with dielectic grease and leave hanging there.

I used the relay diagram from several peoples Bronco pages (thanks whoever you were{what a memory I've got[sorry]}) to help this non electrician do it. The relays were less than $4.00 CDN and the pigtails were even less than that. The only tough part was figuring how to get 12 gauge wire onto the headlight prongs half professionally.

The prongs take a 5/16" female spade connector and the world uses 1/4" regardless of the colour (yellow, blue.red). Yes farm suppliers can get you 3/8" connectors but they're too big to stuff into a common plastic headlight socket.

Eventually I bought the semi circular headlight pig tail replacements from UAP with their spindly little 18 gauge wires, but the right spade connectors inside. I used a carb screwdriver stuck into the back to depress each connector's spring tang and pulled it out evenly with the 18 gauge wire. Once you've done it once it takes seconds.

Don't even try to open up the factory crimp, you'll shove a sharp thing into your finger like I did. After I'd cooled down I took the line pliers and cut the connector's crimp tail right off. Now you can jam in one or two bared 12 gauge wires into the fold behind the connector no trouble into.

A quick blast with the soldering torch and you just push the terminals back into the plastic sockets from the back. On some of the two wire ones I gently tapped them through with a tiny punch. after that I siliconed the back of the pigtails and the relay pigtails and stuffed the fronts full of dielectic grease. That ought to keep Ontario's salt out for a few years.

By running two wires into some of the headlight socket terminals you can minimize the amount of outside connectors and wire you need to use and keep the extra resistance down.

Bright lights ? You bet !!!!!!

Malcolm

Sixlitre is offline  
post #3 of (permalink) Old 11-15-2001, 08:35 AM Thread Starter
Veteran
 
BRONCOMANIA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: eustis , Florida
Posts: 1,444
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: High-Wattage replacement sealedbeams

I should have seen this coming,[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/mad.gif[/img]thats why i had made my last post on aux lights days ago, although them things might get me in more trouble if the cops see me with those on. But i had just been checking out the new H.O. GE bulbs in the auto parts store the other day,i should have bought them.

My lights kind-of die off when you let off on the throttle, Malcolm, what is UAP? never heard of that source. Where was that relay diagram anyone remember? Street lighting in this county is almost non-exsistent in areas so im forced to do something in the meantime till im sure my business is secure enough to by a new truck.

Is the stock wiring and switch not sufficient enough to handle the Extra-Vision bulbs OR did you do it so you can run BOTH low & high beams simultaneously? And would they be able to handle the 80/100 bulbs current if i only use low / high individually?

BRONCOMANIA is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of (permalink) Old 11-15-2001, 10:38 AM
**DONOTDELETE**
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: High-Wattage replacement sealedbeams

APC has a "simulated h.i.d." super white bulb out. I just put them in me 93 Bronco and i think they are much brighter. They are 80/100 watt which i think is what you said you wanted. Mine were around $27 a pair which isn't very bad. But, when you put them in you have to be careful not to touch the bulb or you will ruin it.

post #5 of (permalink) Old 11-15-2001, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
Veteran
 
BRONCOMANIA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: eustis , Florida
Posts: 1,444
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: High-Wattage replacement sealedbeams

Thanks but a 93 dont have sealed beams like pre 87 trucks, Are you having any trouble with oncoming cars flashing their high beams at ya though?

I know some of the after market replacements for sealed beams have replaceable H2 and H4 bulbs(no longer sealed[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img]), but i dont want to buy both the sealed beam replacements and separate bulbs.

Aside from 55/60 watt brands i mentioned, EAGLE EYE has off-road sealed beam replacements in 80/100 and 90/130.

BRONCOMANIA is offline  
post #6 of (permalink) Old 11-15-2001, 04:35 PM
Pooh-Bah
 
WD40's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Helena, MT
Posts: 2,280
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: High-Wattage replacement sealedbeams

<font color=blue>BRONCOMANIA:</font color=blue> Sorry about the ticket.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif[/img]
Plead your case, that's worked for me before.
I'm running 90/130's in the Hella's now.
I don't think the initial outlay is too high, considering the safety factor you get.
The pattern fills up the road much better than any sealed beam I've ever seen.
In addition, glare to oncoming vehicles is actually reduced because the light has a very distinct cut-off.
It's very straight across the center of the road, and angles up to view the shoulder better. Kinda looks like this __/.
Spending the money on some lexan covers will ensure them lasting longer. (rocks, gravel, etc)
When a bulb does burn out, it's less expensive to replace than a whole new sealed unit.
I do get an evil kick out of folks coming towards me with their highs on.
Flash em once, if they don't dim em, I hammer em with the full load!
It's amazing how quickly they drop back down to their low-beams after that.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]


WD-40 Reverend Grip-Shift
85 Bronco XLT, '69 351W, C6-Shift Kit, 9"-Detroit, Dana 44-Tru Trac, 2" Lift, 33X12.5s
WD40 is offline  
post #7 of (permalink) Old 11-15-2001, 06:31 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,147
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: High-Wattage replacement sealedbeams

Broncomania

UAP is either a Canadian name for, or a Canadian competitor to NAPA. Sorry I thought you guys had em' down there too.

Yes the stock wiring was sufficient to handle the Sylvania ExtraVisions and that's what I tried initially. Yes they were better than plain halogens, but the real improvement came when I supplied them right off the battery. That's when you want relays doing the work(transferring the power) and the stock sockets just supplying the trigger signal.

If you tried to run the full 14.75 volts at the battery through the headlight switch, then you might fry it and the smaller stock wiring. You also will lose current on the way to the headlights that way too. Also, like you suggest, running the lows when the highs are on as well requires the bigger 12 gauge wiring.

I just followed some of the Bronco links. Seems like it's a popular Ford modification as there's lots of schematics.

Malcolm

Sixlitre is offline  
post #8 of (permalink) Old 11-16-2001, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
Veteran
 
BRONCOMANIA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: eustis , Florida
Posts: 1,444
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: High-Wattage replacement sealedbeams

Well i would have liked to get the HELLA vision-plus sealed beams w/replaceable H4 bulbs, i took the cheap way out for now and got the GE 6054 HO replacements but i`ll tell you , they are at least 50% brighter than the wagner halos that i had on there. But the wags could of been the originals as i have never replaced em before. I read they get dimmer with age.

But i also noticed my battery cable was loose on the solenoid[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/blush.gif[/img]maybe thats why the lights were going a little dim when i let off on the gas,(duh) If that dont fix it im gonna try your idea sixlitre.

I would like to see how the 80/100 watts are but thinking back how mad i used to get driving thru Big Cypress in the Fla Everglades(completely pitch BLACK in the middle of freakin nowhere)with NO-ONE diming their high beams.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/mad.gif[/img]
I was so tempted to make a U-turn, get on their "A$$" and nail em with my Flood lights!!![img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif[/img][img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif[/img][img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif[/img]

It does piss you off,so i will save that part for the AUX lights should it be necessary...[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

BRONCOMANIA is offline  
post #9 of (permalink) Old 11-18-2001, 12:29 PM
Mud in my Veins
 
Steve83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 5,301
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
High-Beamers

A pillar-mounted 50W spotlight is also a really good attitude-adjuster.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img] Even if you don't hit 'em sqare in the eyes, they'll likely think you're a cop.[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Check first, though - they're not legal for regular vehicles in all states (like any of the states I drive in [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/blush.gif[/img]).


[email protected]
Steve83 is offline  
post #10 of (permalink) Old 11-18-2001, 05:35 PM
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,074
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: High-Beamers

Steve,

Found the cop bone yard. It is in Covington.

Havack!

The main difference in my truck and yours is your truck is a toy and my truck is a truck!
havack is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome