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post #1 of (permalink) Old 11-13-2001, 12:16 PM
broncoman
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Freeze Plug

Found the cause of my low coolant level in my rad, a leaking freeze plug. Wonder how easy it is to replace this? I have the heater element in there because Im up in Canada so is this plug integrated into this element or is it separate. Hopefully I dont have to buy the whole element and cord to replace this silly little plug. Getting the plug out is it just simply hitting it with a srewdriver/hammer so that it spins a bit and pulling it out?
Thank god I havnt replaced the rad hoses and coolant yet.

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 11-13-2001, 12:42 PM
 
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Re: Freeze Plug

Broncoman

If you're leaking from the frost plug hole that has your block heater element in it, as I read you message, then it's as simple as swapping the block heater as it occupies the whole freeze plug opening by itself.

Chances are good it's the neoprene O-ring on the block heater that has failed and all you would need is to pull the block heater out, clean the freeze plug hole (reeeeeeal good) and install a new O-ring on the block heater. The fly in the ointment is getting the right O-ring and backing out the toggle type screw arrangement without stripping it as they are usually corroded to beat the band.

Two options for you are; one get a new block heater and pull off the O-ring and match it to a new one and buy the extra one. If things go well return the un-molested block heater. Two; get a quote on installation of a new block heater and don't even mention the leak. It's a common book job.

Malcolm (Ottawa) Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 11-13-2001, 07:22 PM
 
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Re: Freeze Plug

One more thing

Some people would coat the whole thing with gasket sealant, but if everything is super clean and the O-ring is new it ought to hold for another 100,000. My mechanic buddies would raz me all night if I used sealant on something that wasn't meant to have it.

Also, I have seen some of the block heaters leak right at the very center where the brass screw passes through.

If you do the job, drain the coolant fully as it makes terrible conditioner and is hell to get out of your dew. I guess your part of BC ain't cold enough, but here in Ottawa, and when I was in Nunavut, I used Stant # 13352 which is a 205 degree T-stat. Toasty !!!!!!

Malcolm

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 11-13-2001, 08:35 PM
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Re: Freeze Plug

I travel to the interior a bit for ice fishing and stuff and will get down to -40c so I better make sure everything is sealed up well. My battery is still original so its not as powerful as it once was.
So for the block heater plug, I can can just unscrew it or is it more friction fit and have to destroy it to get out? Your also saying that the plug is intergrated into the block heater element and cant be replaced by itself, just the o-ring. Hmm maybe ill drop the dealer sometime this week and see if I can just get the o-ring if thats all it is. I know a new block heater is prob $80 or so. Money money, what use is it if you dont spend it.

post #5 of (permalink) Old 11-13-2001, 10:10 PM
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Re: Freeze Plug

just for kicks im woundering how hot does that heater keep the block at and would you just happen to know the bore size of the plug



post #6 of (permalink) Old 11-14-2001, 01:33 AM
 
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Re: Freeze Plug

Broncoman

The block heater "element is housed in brass and sealed with an O-ring and takes up the entire space of the freeze plug opening by itself. One screw goes through the center of it from the outside and holds the unit in with what could best be described as a drywall style toggle bolt arrangement.

Unfortunately for you and Jim I don't know my Fords as well as my Mopars yet and I don't know the freezeplug opening size or the O-ring size yet. If you hop on down to Canadian Tire and buy a block heater for your application you can do the following.

Open it up and look at it. This will explain how it goes together, and yes you can change the actual cord without pulling the element. Take the O-ring off carefully and walk in to a real automotive jobber and buy another just like it. It'll probably be the same size as your original or close enough. If no jobber in town has an O-ring, go to a plumbing supplier or hardware store, anywhere that sells pitless adapters,etc, they'll have em'.

Take it all home, drain the coolant, pull the old block heater, clean it and the hole up real good and install the new O-ring. If you wreck the element taking it out or the O-ring doesn't do the trick, use the new block heater. If things go well, walk back into CTC and hand back the new block heater and get your money back.

If it gets down to -40 I'd pop for the Stant 205 degreeT-stat from a jobber as CTC doesn't carry Stant.

Malcolm

Jim

I've never felt the motor at night when it's plugged in, but it's warm enough the truck starts faster and the choke doesn't stay on as long(if my EFI has a choke). It's meant for Canadians and people from Northern Minnesota,etc, where it's truly cold. Truth be told I didn't use mine once last Winter.

As for the 205 degree T-stat, it's a heat factory !!!!!!!!!!

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 11-14-2001, 07:34 AM
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Freeze Plug bore size-5.0-5.8

Jim- its 11/2"...

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 11-15-2001, 04:45 PM
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Re: Freeze Plug bore size-5.0-5.8

I got a new block heater for bout $50cdn and will prob just put the whole thing in. No sense pissing around with the old one. Dont need to sit at the side of the road on top of a hill somewhere with 20l (?) of coolant all over the ground. thx for help.

post #9 of (permalink) Old 11-16-2001, 11:38 PM
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Re: Freeze Plug bore size-5.0-5.8

My Napa part didnt come in so I went to ford and they sell the block heater plug for only $30 . .great. Didnt have to buy the whole kit. For those who want to know they have a couple of em, a 600W and 750W. Look just like what Sixlitre said. Ive never seen on but look easy enough to replace after seeing it now.

post #10 of (permalink) Old 11-17-2001, 12:23 AM
 
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Re: Freeze Plug bore size-5.0-5.8

That's great. Was the plug wire all you needed ?

The rub with the toggle type hold in stuff is it's always corroded and you almost get it loose enough to pull out, but then the slot head strips cause the threads tighten up on you. Then you get overheated yourself, do something rash, like beat on it with a hammer or grab it with vise grips and ruin it for reinstallation.

Prove the odds wrong and save the old one. Best of luck

Malcolm

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