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post #1 of (permalink) Old 10-13-2001, 11:03 PM
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need lots of help

I finally got my 377W stroker in my bronco and i'm running into lots of problems. Hope ya can help me out. It has twisted wedge heads, GT40 intake, about 8.5:1 compression, and it has a mild cam ground for the vortech which is going to to be pumping about 8lbs of boost when I put the belt on. Im using a Pro-M mass air conversion kit with 30lbs injectors. Initial timing is set at about 10 BTDC. When I start it up, the temperature under the hood get very hot like if you stuck your head in an oven. When I pulled the #1 spark plug 1/2 of it was clean and the other 1/2 was fouled. The rockers are adjusted to 0 lash then tightened 1/8 of a turn or less to keep it a little on the loose side. I pulled the codes using a jumper and reading the MIL but cant figure out the codes but here there are:

85
84
95
85
84
95
1
34
95
34
95

any help would be great.

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 10-14-2001, 12:36 AM
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EEC Codes

According to this list:
34 PFE/EPT sensor fault (1.9L CFI, 2.9L, and 3.0L) / High exhaust pressure/PFE/EPT sensor fault
84 EGR failure
85 Cannister purge failure
95 {Unused}

None of those codes (except maybe 84) should apply to a FS truck engine - where did that EEC come from?


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post #3 of (permalink) Old 10-14-2001, 11:39 AM
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Re: EEC Codes

EEC is from a 92 mustang like Best Products suggested.
Could the EGR failure be caused by low vacuum? Cause the truck is only pulling about 4 inches at idle and that seems to be wrong for a new engine.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 10-14-2001, 12:13 PM
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Lacuum

Yep: the EGR (& a LOT of other stuff) is operated by manifold vacuum, so a lack of it will definitely cause problems. I don't know how it's running with 4" - it should be rock steady between 18-22". Even at WOT, I doubt it should go that low.


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post #5 of (permalink) Old 10-14-2001, 12:52 PM
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Re: Lacuum

Is there a good way to check for vacuum leaks? Cause above idle it will pull vacuum just not at idle.

And where is that PFE/EPT sensor located? I had an exhaust made for the truck but not sure if it is still too small.
It has the MAC equal length shortie headers and from there is 2.5" pipes going together into the first cat, then 3" to the second cat and 3" going through a 2 chamber flowmaster all the way back. The exhaust is comming out real fast and i cant keep my hand there for very long maybe 10 secs cause it real hot.



post #6 of (permalink) Old 10-14-2001, 06:03 PM
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PFE/EPT

That sensor is on 1.9L CFI, 2.9L, and 3.0L engines - that's what I meant when I said those codes don't apply to truck engines. Did the Mustang have a 5.8L (like it's now trying to control), or was it a 1.9L CFI, a 2.9L, or a 3.0L??? And what engine wiring harness are you using - original from the truck; original from the donor Mustang; combination of the two; some aftermarket harness; homemade???

You need an EEC built to control a 5.8L or a custom job programmed specifically for your 377, and you need a 5.8L wiring harness to hook up to all the sensors & actuators so it can do what it's trying to do - otherwise, it'll just keep throwing codes & running poorly.


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post #7 of (permalink) Old 10-14-2001, 09:01 PM
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Re: PFE/EPT

The EEC is from a 5.0 mustang. The wiring harness is actually 2 pieces an injector over lay from Pro-M and the stock truck 5.0 harness. I rewired the stock harness just like the instructions by moving the pins over to the new computer connector and sodering in the wires for the additional O2 sensor and mass air meter, the only difference was that i had to move some of the sensors around so they would work on the GT40 intake and I remove the old injector wires from the harness. The only sensor I don't know what to do with is the knock sensor. Can I just leave it disconected or do I plug in the knock sensor and tie wrap it to the harness?

What would happen if those 2 valves for the smog pump were installed backwards? and what direction are they suppose to point? I had to change all of the hoses cause the 5.0 ones would not work any more. Right now i can feel air being blowned out of the smog pump hose that's pointed towards the fender. At higher RPMs there is still air comming out of that hose only difference is that the air is hot so i'm not sure I connected those valves up right.

The thing that worries me the most is the underhood temperature because there is so much radiated heat. Any metal object will burn you even if it's not connected to the engine so i'm afraid something is going to melt.

How do you test the water temperature sensor? Cause i dont think it's working right it says it in the normal range when the heater hose that it is connected to is very hot. I remember one time i ran out of water in the old motor, but the gauge never went up. It seems like the only two setting it can read is cold or normal.

post #8 of (permalink) Old 10-14-2001, 11:36 PM
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Smog system

With such a heavily modified harness, I can't begin to diagnose it. Good luck. Recheck all your circuits and connections.

The Haynes shop manual gives procedures for testing almost every sensor. Yes, I'd just tie up the KS plugged in if you don't want to drill & tap a hole in the block for it.

There are about 6 valves related to the smog pump - the diverter & bypass which are integrated as a unit, the solenoid valves that control them, and the check valves - one for the crossover tube behind the heads & one for the downpipe to the cat(s). I figure you're referring to the check valves; if you reverse them, you'd pump exhaust back thru the diverter valve, which would probably melt it instantly since every one I've seen was plastic. The check valves should only allow air to go AWAY from the pump, INTO the heads & cats.

The air coming out the tube by the fender is the bypassed air from the smog pump, but it shouldn't be noticeably warm. It should only be air coming in thru the filter immediately below that outlet tube, going thru the pump, and back out.


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post #9 of (permalink) Old 10-15-2001, 01:13 AM
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Re: Smog system

hot air comes out of my tube too. of course my check valves or something in that system is FUBAR so that could be the cause. It gives me a rough idle (doesn't surge much though), taptap or clack clack sound, and I get madd fumes in the cab (windows up = death). When I had the upper intake off I noticed a burnt looking hole in that pipe but I was in a hurry as usual and didn't look hard at it. I need to fix it because my gas mileage went down about the time this started and my CE light has been on since that time too. Is it most likely a check valve, and do they have them at NAPA? And I need some vac lines too, like the one that goes to the valve that lets air go to the cat.


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post #10 of (permalink) Old 10-15-2001, 03:09 AM
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Re: Smog system

Ya, i'm refering to the check valves i looked it up in my chiltons manuel but the diagrams look nothing like my setup.
I just hope i have those check valves going in the right direction. I'm about 90% sure I put the one near the somgpump right just not to sure about the one at the back of the engine.

I'm thinking the low vacuum might be from the rockerarms not being adjusted right. I heard of 2 ways adjusting those rockers one way is with the valve covers off and engine running. Too messy and there is no way i can get to the nuts with the intake on and plumbed to the mass air meter. The other way is from crane cams 0 lash then tighten 1/2 -3/4 turns. The first time i tried adjusting the valves that way the engine would not idle at all so i re-adjusted them about 1/8 of a turn. With 1/8 the car idled but pulled the low vacuum. I'm gonna borrow a leakdown tester to make sure the valves are closing all the way. Hopefully the valves are still too tight so that when i loosen them up some more the heat might go away.

Anyone know of any others ways to adjust roller rockers on a hydrolic flat tappet? These suckers are nowhere as easy to adjust as the latemodel 5.0 mustangs.

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