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post #1 of (permalink) Old 01-23-2001, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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general question about axles

I know that everybody says that if you're going bigger than 35's it's time for some 3/4 or 1 ton axles...but why exactly is this? What is it that puts so much more stress on them? I could understand that if at the same time that you put on 44's you also put in a 700hp 460, it would put some killer torque on the axles. But if you're just running the stock engine where does the extra stress come from? I could sorta see how the rear tires would be able to put more lateral stress on the axles and break them, but if you didn't do a donut right into a rut wouldn't you be ok? And since the front is full floating anyway, that wouldn't be a factor...unless the spindle broke ([censored]!) And I'm talking mud here, not rock crawling.

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 01-24-2001, 08:47 AM
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Re: general question about axles

Most of the reasons do apply primarily to rock crawling, but it's not only the engine that applies stress to the driveline. When you put on bigger tires, you increase the length of the lever between the ground and the hubs, which puts more twist (in every direction) on the axle shafts (on a semi-floater) or hubs (full floater). This stress is applied during braking, cornering, hitting bumps, landing after jumps, AND accelleration. It is ultimately applied to the wheel bearings, lug studs, rims, axle housings, leaf springs & their U-bolts, radius arms & axle pivots, shocks, brakes, U-joints, etc. Heavier axles are made to take more of all of these stresses.

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 01-24-2001, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Re: general question about axles

Yeah, so I guess eventually something would break on the 8.8 if I was flapping 40's around. I need to find a 10.5 to put in the rear of mine..that thing has some beef. I'd rather get stuck than break something, so for now I'll stay with 33's. By the way, do you happen to know how much complete axles cost at the Dealer$hip? I thought I saw a 1 ton on a site that said it was OEM 2000 and was 1200 bucks...that's not too bad for a brand new piece.

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 01-25-2001, 09:29 PM
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Re: another axle question

Is there any hope of me figuring out how bad off my front axle is or am I just going to have to take it to a dealer? Alignment shop? My right front axle shaft rubs against the the axle arm on the side of the hole in the assembly. The hub lock nut/washer assembly was shredded and I can see that the axle is not centered in the spindle. So I know I need new hubs, locknuts/washers, probably spindle bearings, but I don't know about axle shaft or what else. Something's probably bent beyond just bad bearings but I can't tell by looking.

post #5 of (permalink) Old 01-25-2001, 10:15 PM
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Re: another axle question *Edited*

Sure, just break open the Haynes manual and start taking stuff apart. When you find something NOT busted, you've probably got it all, and you can start putting it back together. Just so you know, the right axleshaft shouldn't come out of the diff without pulling the third member off the Traction Beam and compressing the snap ring.

*PS You probably don't need new spindle nuts or wheel bearings; just hub locks and inner stub axle bearings/seals. The stub axle, the U-joint, and the outer axle (between the slip joint and U-joint) may all be ruined, though.*

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 01-26-2001, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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Re: another axle question

But you can just slide the outer axle off at the slip joint if you just need to replace it. I still can't picture exactly where you're saying it's rubbing.

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