Interior Schminterior.... - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
Ford 67-96 F-Series, 78-96 Bronco All discussions of 67-96 F-Series Trucks and 78-96 Broncos

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of (permalink) Old 01-15-2001, 08:11 PM
**DONOTDELETE**
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Interior Schminterior....

Steve EightyThree....This post is for you...
I have been doing some thinking about my Bronco. I have been doing some looking at your pictures. Your interior is pretty freakin nice considering how they came out of the factory. My interior is crap. It is one of the few things that has me wanting to give up on the damn thing. Well, after looking at yers it kinda has made me want to make it like yours. So I have to ask. How did you build the guage pod? How did you fit your door panels? What are those door panels out of? Did you have any problems with the connections? IF I decided to change out the interior, I'd prob end up getting new doors too....(just a thought.) I have to get a new dash because some kids ripped mine apart when they stole my cd player out of it. Where should I get a new one at? Any areas of the interior you found to be problematic? Anything that u wished you did differently? Oh, and how much should I expect to pay?
-mike

Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of (permalink) Old 01-16-2001, 10:57 AM
Mud in my Veins
 
Steve83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 5,301
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Interior Schminterior....

Gauges
(There are pics of this at www.webphotos.com, Nickname is "steve".) All I did was Dremel out the back shell of the cluster so the later ones would fit (they're deeper and have different terminals). Then I soldered telephone wire from their terminals to the old traces on the film circuit and added some wires to the harness connector (there are barely enough empty spaces for ALL the crap I added). The speedo has its own connector and will only work if you have an '87-9? ABS-type rear end. And if you don't have a late-model EFI in an '80-86 truck, you don't need to change the fuel or ALT meters.

Door panels
They come from '92-97 trucks/Broncos. One has a leather inlay, and the other is velour, but none of my passengers has ever noticed. One is on an '82 door, and the other is on an '80, but ANY '80-97 door will work. You just also have to change the vent windows to '92-97. If you get panels with power windows & locks, you have to do some rewiring. Either butcher the door harnesses to get the new switches to work, or swap to the '92-97 harnesses. The new driver's door harness runs ALL THE WAY ACROSS the dash to the passenger door!!! (What a pain, unless you're pulling the dash anyway!-) But that's the best, because the little door corner lights will work and you can add power mirrors. It's also an excellent opportunity to add a $40 remote keyless entry system. The only problem is a MINOR interference at the front edge where the door panels strike the old trim plastic, making the door a LITTLE harder to shut.

Dash
'92-97 dashes WILL NOT fit '80-91 bodies, and '92-97 instrument clusters won't fit or work with '80-86 trucks. '80-86 dashes are probably pretty cheap (if you can find a good one) at junkyards, but they're a PAIN to install because of the tangle. '87-91 dashes are much more plentiful, in better condition, and somewhat easier to work with (although still time-consuming). (I don't remember what year your truck is.) I'd say, stick with the type you have.

Other
There's nothing I did that I wish I hadn't, but there is one other thing that I HIGHLY reccommend: '87-88 1/2 A/C controls. It allows you to select fresh/recirculate, panel/floor/mix/defrost, and the compressor clutch independently of each other, AND it's cable-operated (except the fresh/recirculate) so it always works. With ALL others, you eventually have to deal with vacuum leaks, and you can only get recirculate with panel A/C, and the A/C clutch is always on in "Mix" and "Defrost". The drawback is that you have to swap the ventilation box between the dash & firewall at the same time. Putting the panel in '80-86 dashes requires some Dremel work, and the cables are in a slight bind.

$$$$$$$
Prices vary widely, depending on condition and the seller's mood, of course, but here are the prices I encountered:
PSOM (speedo) $10-100
Door panels $30-150
Door wiring $20-200
Vent window $30-80
Dash $30-100
A/C control & box $40-60
The more time you spend scouring junkyards, the lower the prices you find.

Steve
83 Custom w/95 4.9L EFI, 78 NP435, 83 NP208, 83 D44IFS 3.07, 87 Ford 8.8ABS 3.08, Michelin LTX AT 31x10.50R15
Steve83 is offline  
post #3 of (permalink) Old 01-16-2001, 12:04 PM
**DONOTDELETE**
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Interior Schminterior....

I have an 84 Bronc. How much would you charge to build me a comparable set up on the guages? I am running 9in in the back, so I doubt that I can use some of those same gauges, but I hate the look of the older style guages. Another idea you gave me is to use an 89 dash. Could I make the transfer easily? What problems would I get into and how difficult do you think it would be? Thanx for the help Steve.
-mike

Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of (permalink) Old 01-16-2001, 12:39 PM
Mud in my Veins
 
Steve83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 5,301
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Dash swap

Exactly what gauges do you want to change? And to what? I changed mine because the old ones wouldn't work with the new gas tank and alternator. The truck wiring harness had to be changed, so the gauges also had to be changed. I could do the mechanical work of carving the instrument cluster and the electrical work of soldering, BUT without your truck, I couldn't change ITS wiring to work with the new gauges.
**OOPS I could put in the later oil pressure and water temperature gauges (and maybe the tachometer) with no mods to the truck wiring.**

Putting the later dash in is almost a bolt-in. (Bear in mind that I may use that term more loosely than you because I've done so much swapping in my truck and the others I've built.) You'd just have to rearrange the wiring harness so it would lie along the back of the new dash, or cut your firewall to fit the big round connector and use the later wiring. (THAT'S what I would do.) Then splice the harnesses together in the engine compartment. The later dash fits the same firewall and pedal bracket as the early trucks, so I don't think you'll find any mechanical interference, but you will have to get the E-brake pedal and ventilation box. As long as you can read the wiring diagrams in the back of the Haynes manual, I think it would be pretty easy (all things considered) and something you could be proud of.

Steve
83 Custom w/95 4.9L EFI, 78 NP435, 83 NP208, 83 D44IFS 3.07, 87 Ford 8.8ABS 3.08, Michelin LTX AT 31x10.50R15
Steve83 is offline  
post #5 of (permalink) Old 01-16-2001, 03:36 PM
**DONOTDELETE**
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Dash swap

Well Steve, I think you've pretty much convinced me. [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img] Do you think that the newer dash will have problems if I put on '96 door panels? Or, do u think that I should put on the year door panels that match with the dash to avoid that all together?
-mike

post #6 of (permalink) Old 01-16-2001, 06:04 PM
Mud in my Veins
 
Steve83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 5,301
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Door panels & dash

I'm pretty sure the '92-97 door panels will fit with the '87-91 dash because I use '87-91 windshield pillar covers and (judging by the lines of the plastic) it doesn't come any closer to the door than mine. But the '87 door panels are much cheaper and easier to find, and you wouldn't have to fight the wiring (if you have/WILL have power windows) since it would plug right in. I prefer the look of the later ones (window switches face up instead of across), but in this case, I'd use the matching panels.

You should be aware that the price I mentioned for a dash was for a shell - I've never bought one with all the stuff that goes in it (like an instrument cluster). But if you buy it all together and pull it yourself (which I recommend for almost ANY parts), you should be able to get the whole dash and the connector in the firewall for $50-200.

Steve
83 Custom w/95 4.9L EFI, 78 NP435, 83 NP208, 83 D44IFS 3.07, 87 Ford 8.8ABS 3.08, Michelin LTX AT 31x10.50R15
Steve83 is offline  
post #7 of (permalink) Old 02-10-2001, 10:45 AM
**DONOTDELETE**
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Interior ??....

I found a guy that has a 92 F150 for parts. I can see from your post that the dash won't fit into my '84, but I think I'm gonna take most of the rest of the interior- its the right color- gray. I'm a little unclear on the door panel/vent window thing. What do I need to change if I wanted to us the '92 door panels? If I can get the whole door cheap, will it fit right? Thanks
Doug

post #8 of (permalink) Old 02-10-2001, 02:29 PM
Mud in my Veins
 
Steve83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 5,301
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Interior ??....

Yes, the 92 door will bolt on - I'd suggest taking the hinges, too, and the wiring if they're power windows & locks (it spans the dash, so it's a pain). They have a better hold-open spring on the upper hinge,but make sure they aren't broken. The 92-97 door panels require the 92-97 vent windows, but if you use your old glass, there's a plastic insert that has to be removed - I'll explain if you go that route.

Steve
83 Custom w/95 4.9L EFI, 78 NP435, 83 NP208, 83 D44IFS 3.07, 87 Ford 8.8ABS 3.08, Michelin LTX AT 31x10.50R15
Steve83 is offline  
post #9 of (permalink) Old 02-11-2001, 12:07 AM
Mud in my Veins
 
muddybronco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: woooooo pig sooooooie!
Posts: 6,842
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Interior ??....

The A/C clutch is engaged in defrost? Dare I ask?

It's a Jeep thing? My Bronco thing will run over your little Jeep thing.

Muddybronco
muddybronco is offline  
post #10 of (permalink) Old 02-11-2001, 12:47 AM
Mud in my Veins
 
Steve83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 5,301
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Re: Defrost

Yeah. Cooling the air causes the water in it to condense, by making the relative humidity 100%. Then when it goes past the heater core, the relative humidity drops. That way, you don't get fog on the windshield and it tends to dry the inside of the truck. But it's not as effective if you're sucking in fresh moist air (which ALL <font color=blue>except '87-88 1/2</font color=blue> do), which is why I like being able to lock it into Recirculate (which is only available in Max A/C on other years).

Steve
83 Custom w/95 4.9L EFI, 78 NP435, 83 NP208, 83 D44IFS 3.07, 87 Ford 8.8ABS 3.08, Michelin LTX AT 31x10.50R15
Steve83 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome