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post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-11-2000, 09:25 PM
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? #2 for Steve (or anyone)

A couple months back I went from a 3.00 ratio to 3.50, and I guess that when I put it back together I preloaded the front bearings too much, cuz now im cussin tryin to get the inner bearing to separate from the spindle. The race is inside the brakeroter and I imagine that i can get that off by putting the spindle nut back on and pulling the race out. This I think is how the bearing is supposed to come off but it is baked onto the spindle. My question is, What is the best way to preload the bearings. I turned the nut till the hub assy started to get friction then I backed it off 1/4 turn. Im lucky I made it home. Any help is appreciated. Well off to bust this bit(h off with a chisel. Wish me luck!

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2000, 03:31 PM
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Re: ? #2 ratios and races

Changing a ring&pinion set should have nothing to do with wheel bearings. (Did you change the rear ratio also??)

As I recall, my Haynes says to put 12??ft-lb on the inner nut and 150?? on the outer. If I've changed the bearings, I always tighten the inner nut slowly (while rotating the hub) to around 75ft-lb (to seat the races), back it off loose, and then set it to about that torque.

I don't think I would ever beat on a spindle - it carries about 1500 lb static load and, when you hit a bump, gets loads maybe 5 times that. A small nick or crack will cause a catastrophic failure so long from now that you won't even remember that you beat on it (after you wake up in the hospital). Let a machine shop pull it, or notch it with a Dremel in 2-3 spots and it will split off with no problem. Liquid wrench and throwing it in the freezer may also work. Or, break the cage, dump the rollers, bolt it back to the knuckle, and use a pipe wrench to loosen it. Just don't score the spindle or you'll have to have it machined smooth again, if it's not ruined. If it ends up ruined after one of these methods, then it was ruined to begin with and needed to be replaced anyway. (IMHO)

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