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post #1 of (permalink) Old 06-13-2000, 10:23 PM
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OIL

What kind of oil/weight are you guys running? And what would you use if your bronco was a 351w with 160,000 miles on it? I've been using vavoline 10w30, however a bud told me to start using royal purple 20w50? I've heard from some other people that royal purple is the stuff to use for racing or cars with lots of miles? Any ideas would be great?
forc

"Mess with the Bull and you shall get the horn"
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 06-14-2000, 02:49 AM
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Re: OIL

I run plain old Quaker State 10-30w. I feel that if you're not burning oil and you change it at about 3000 miles with the filter, you should be just fine. If you are burning oil and live in a warm climate then maybe go with a little heavier weight. But hey, that's my opinion and you'll probably get a different one from everybody. I'd rather change my oil regularly than pay more for synthetics.
PJL

post #3 of (permalink) Old 06-14-2000, 07:59 AM
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Re: OIL

My personal fav is Mobil-1 tri-synthetic 5W-30 with Shell SU2000 fuel. Sounds expensive but I usually pick up about 2MPG and it runs smoother. Next question is.... Are there any real engine wear fixers out there?? I used Restore once on my Ranger and it seemed to work a little. I've heard a lot of bad stuff about Slick-50 and the like products so I've just changed oil every 5,000 with full synthetics. Maybe a 10W-30 tri-synthetic would work better as it should be a thicker oil and seal better.

Take Care,

Bryan

82 CJ-7, 97 TJ Sport, 90 Bronco
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 06-14-2000, 12:43 PM
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Re: OIL

If it's not using oil to extreme I say synthetic. I too am a Mobil 1 fan. I've used it since it came out in the mid 70's. The stuff is just soooooooooo thermally stable. With todays oils and todays cleaner engines and fuels I think the 3000/3month service schedule is overkill (but I'm all for overkill in most cases). Synthetics just make sense to me for the down time. I can go 6months/6000miles (twice a year) and usually save money over the 3/3000 crowd. This is half the time that you can leave it in for....that is, one year. My mother maintained her 80 Citation at a Mobil retailer. They just changed the filters and topped it off every 7500 and ONE annual oil change .......she tripped the odometer twice. Got rid of the car due to UV damage to the dash and a trashed head liner.....but the engine was still quiet. I've had the advantage of having a long run of new or "relative hand me downs" that have been using synthetic since almost new......so this aids my choice. My son (dad has much into this beast) got a $400 83 Bronco 302. It uses no oil......so synthetic went in (98000 miles on it). No cold stalls until the pressure gets up in the winter. I can't say enough good things about the stuff.

I use 0w-30 in the colder 6months and 5w-30 in the warmer months. I'd avoid the 20w-50 if you have a four seasons climate. It's only specified for extreme shear load applications like turbos and such. The main deal with the trend to lighter weight oil is the energy consumed to pump the stuff and the tollerances in the internals of the engine. On Mobil's old site (pre EXXON merger) the page broke down the different features of each weight of synthetic oil. The 0w-30 featured best cold weather protection.....while the 5w-30 featured the best fuel economy etc....etc.
I'll never use anything else in a gasoline engine.

GeeAea

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 06-14-2000, 07:53 PM
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Re: OIL

So, what weight would be good for someone that lives deep in the south?

"Mess with the Bull and you shall get the horn"
post #6 of (permalink) Old 06-15-2000, 09:36 AM
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Re: OIL

In that case anyone you want. That is, it would still depend on what you're doing .......if it's a daily driver ......either the 0w-30 or the 5w-30 would do okay.......if you're towing ....or drive your rig to extreme on a regular basis or a "worked" engine.......10w-30 or the 15w-50. Again the current school of thought, even in a warmer climate is that lighter is better.


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post #7 of (permalink) Old 06-15-2000, 09:57 AM
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Re: OIL

My owners manual says 5w-30 is he preferred weight and to only use 10w-30 if you live in very warm climate.
I too have heard bad things about additives that use PTFE's (teflon). Dupont did some studies and found that the harmful effects out weigh any benefits introduced by the additve. I found this information on the web and obviously you cant believe every thing you read but it seemed to make sense to me.
My grandfather never used any additives, changed his oil at the reccomended intervals and ran his trucks forever. These vehicles saw farm use, towed heavy loads, and he never had any problems.

Just my two cents worth.
Jim


post #8 of (permalink) Old 06-15-2000, 10:12 AM
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Re: OIL

I bought my bronco in 1998 with 46K on it. I immediately started using Castrol Syntec 5w50. That oil is perfect for my climate. It's just a WIDE range of protection for an oil... nice. I use nothing but Wix filters, as I've seen the inside of others and was not impressed. It costs me $18 for a 5qt jug of oil, and $3.99-$4.39 for the extra quart. I usually buy 2 filters at a time, which run me just under $10.

I was using Castrol GTX 20w50 in my buick regal before i got rid of it... It had 280K on it, and needed the thicker oil to keep the thing runnin' smooth. I live in the upstate NY area, so we get temps from 0's to 90's.



-Jay Hamill
1994 Ford Bronco XLT - 302cid, E4OD, 32x11.5x15 Dunlop Rover RV, Rancho RS5000
post #9 of (permalink) Old 06-16-2000, 06:51 PM
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Re: OIL

In Response to Bryans: Are there any real engine wear fixers out there??

I just wanted to say i run ProLong in my 91 S10 with 160000 miles on it, and the compression is still great. I don't know if the ProLong has anything to do with it, but i have spun my engine to 6000 rpm way to many times and spun it once to over 7000. I don't know whether the ProLong has anything to do with this or not, but i'd hate to not use it and lose an engine.

Get Dirty!!!
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