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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-26-2008, 05:40 PM
eddge
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Question Seriously jumpy steering

I started building a truck to play around in. It is a 77 F-150 4x4. I put a skyjacker 9" suspension lift with leaf springs. After installing the lift I have encountered 2 problems. The first problem, which I am most worried about, is that the steering seems to jump pretty badly. If the curvature of the road changes left or right, the steering pulls that way really bad but it happens really quickly. I know that the track bar is too short. Could that be the problem? I know that big trucks tend to jump around a little, but this is a lot more then any other big truck that Ive ever driven. I drove it before the lift and it didnt jump like that. Another problem that occured is that the brakes need pumping every time i go to stop. I have bleed the brakes a few times but it still does the same thing. I am thinking master cylinder, but I could be wrong of course. Would not installing the longer brake lines when putting on such a big lift cause this? There are no leaks anywhere in the lines, and they seemed long enough without replacing them with the braided ones that I got. Any tips, ideas or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for reading my post and I hope to get some idea of how to fix my problems.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-28-2008, 08:32 AM
eddge
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I think I have figured it out through my own research. I believe my problem is something called "bumpsteer" which is when your wheels then to turn them selves due to improper suspension and steering linkage geometry. Because my track bar is too short the alignment of everything isnt very good so when I hit a bump or something, the linkage doesnt match the suspension and it causes the tires to turn on their own. All I need to do is make sure the drag link and track bar are long enough and they need to run as close to parallel with each other as I can get them. Here is the article I found if anyone else is interested.
ORU Steering Kit & Track Bar Install | Off-Road Magazine Article at Automotive.com
post #3 of (permalink) Old 09-29-2008, 03:49 AM
gville4x4
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sounds like your pretty much on the right track. did you change out the pitman arm? and, IMO, you should definately change out the brake lines ( not that it would cause this problem), especially if you already have them....
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 09-29-2008, 03:24 PM
eddge
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yes, the lift came with the pitman arm and the brake lines. I will put the new lines on it, change out all the fluid and see how it goes from there. Now, correct me if i am wrong, but the right way to bleed the lines is to start with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder and work your way closest right? so if the master cylinder is near the front left tire, start with the rear right, then rear left, fron right then front left last?
post #5 of (permalink) Old 09-30-2008, 05:42 PM
gville4x4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eddge View Post
yes, the lift came with the pitman arm and the brake lines. I will put the new lines on it, change out all the fluid and see how it goes from there. Now, correct me if i am wrong, but the right way to bleed the lines is to start with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder and work your way closest right? so if the master cylinder is near the front left tire, start with the rear right, then rear left, fron right then front left last?
Exactly. If you have a way to catch the fluid at all four corners at the same time, let them "gravity bleed" for a few minutes (make sure the master stays full), and then bleed them using the procedure you described, again making sure the master stays full. Gravity bleeding will take alot of the leg work out (unless your using a vacuum pump, of course) .
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