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post #1 of (permalink) Old 03-07-2006, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
 
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lift kits

i am looking to go bigger then lift i have now. i have searched both on here and the internet and nothing comes up for year truck. it is 1980. it currently have a 6in lift on it. looking to make a crawler with as much lift as i can. i know it may have to be custom but trying to not do that is i can.

it is going to be getting a body lift on it but i hav that planned out already. i just don't know if i am going 2" or 4" but i will decide that depending upon the suspension lift
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 03-07-2006, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: lift kits

also curious why someone would flatten the leaf springs. the only curve in my leaf springs is where it connects to the fram it curves down about an inch then it is flat all the way around. curious if i replace the leaf springs and then stick a hanger lift kit ill that work for what i am looking for
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 03-07-2006, 04:43 PM
 
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Re: lift kits

Hmm, I am wanting to lift my '86 Bronco.
Flat springs don't sound good, what truck are we talking about? You can get lift from new leaf springs, there are all types of ad's in magazines where they will match your old springs but have more curve giving more lift. As I was told the first time I asked a question in here... search, search, search.

Crosby
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 03-07-2006, 06:24 PM
 
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Re: lift kits

The flatter your leafs sit the more they flex. The more bend that's in the leaf pack usually compromises the flex of the leaf. What's your wheeling style. That can answer alot of questions on what you are going towant. You can usually go up to 6" lift leafs without worrying too much about compromising your flex too much. Check out fullsizebronco.com and start reading. There's alot of information out there. Don't just start throwing money and time into your truck without a plan.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 03-07-2006, 08:26 PM
 
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Re: lift kits

First off, you say it will be a crawler. By that do you mean rock crawler or mall crawler? If the first, you might as well go ahead and plan a SAS. The TTB is great for mild mud and trails and shines in the desert, but aint worth much on the rocks.

Also, why body lift? Body lifts do nothing for suspension travel or flex, only allow for bigger tires. And if you DID do one, nevr go above 3 inches.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 03-08-2006, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: lift kits

sorry i posted last night and i screwed it up i will answer you again

it is gowing to be a rock crawler. i have desert out here but not enough to make the bronco for that. the only desert i see is on my way to the rocks. out here i live in the mountains so i have alot of choice for the degree of rock crawling. i know money is what will stop me. os i am looking to go with a medium build crawler. i know that is vague. let me see if i can explain it better. looking to make it trough deep ruts . 1-3 foot rocks, fairly steep inclines but still be able to drive to work every day and take it through the mud when i have to get to my girlfriends house. so i am looking for a rock crawler that is universal. i know you are going to say well just make a standard build ( lift bigger tires, sas axel, etc.) just know what i want don;t know how to make it happen. i have worked a little on Ih scouts. most of what i have done to car is building vw baja's and stupid hondas when i was in school. also have done a rebuild on a jeep cherokee and cj-5
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 03-08-2006, 12:30 PM
 
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Re: lift kits

If you want a crawler then the equasion is simple. The biggest tires you can fit on the least amount of lift. You need three things to have a good wheelable truck: Ground Clearance which means bigger tires. Traction which means you need to get the power to the ground. and Center of gravity which you want to try and achieve as low as possible. For bigger tires you need one of two things, lift or fender cutting. Fender cutting is cheap and if this is a wheeler then I'd strongly suggest to start studying how to trim some sheet metal to clear bigger tires. Traction is achieved in two ways, one: a flexy suspension setup that enables the vehicle to keep all 4 tires on the ground and two differential lockers. If you are locked front and rear you essentially have power going to all 4 corners which is great for traction. the tradeoff is lack of steering control. (You'll quickly learn that everything you do is a tradeoff. For example: I've made my Bronco into an awsome trail machine IMO. The tradeoff is that it doesn't handle near as well on the street now as it did when it was stock.

If I were starting all over. I would cut the wheelwells out so you can clear 35s comfortably. I then would save my pennies to install a rear locker on the Bronco. I recomend this for a 9" rear. If you've the 8.8 take the time/money to truss up the 8.8 as it has weak tubes and if the tubes flex excessively then your whole rear end will break because of the axle being out of alignment with the diff. Adding a locker significantly increases stress on the axle. I'd leave the TTB front end alone untill I had the money set up to completely. a fully locked TTB front is asking for trouble. Guys have done it and with varying results. Do so at your own risk. The next thing I'd do would be to order a small lift kit. It would be wise to start the one ton stuff at this junction but it's not necessary. There is soo much that can be done but it's better to stick with the Keep it Simple Stupid theme. That's it for now. I hope this has helped some. NORM
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 03-08-2006, 03:12 PM
 
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Re: lift kits

Hey Norm,
What about doing a limited slip on the front with TTB. I have an '86 Bronco and want to put limited slip on front and rear. So far, everything is pretty much stock.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 03-08-2006, 08:47 PM
 
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Re: lift kits

35s and a locker is great with the correct gear ratio for what you are doing. For crawling, the stock gears combined with this setup isnt going to give you what you are looking for. Like Norm said, add a rear locker but at the same time regear to match the new tire size. Also, a LS in the front is a good idea, but remember to regear to match the rear.

35s will grenade a stock TTB real fast when worked hard. If you are going to invest in the TTB with gears and a LS, replace the stock u-joints with stronger units, and maybe consider upgrading the slip yoke to a unit from a Dana 50 TTB frm an F-250.

Norm is one of the people that wheeled the TTB hard, but if I remember right that was with 33s. Never the less, he will more than likely point you in the right direction.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 03-08-2006, 11:49 PM
 
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Re: lift kits

What GT said. I'd go a full locker in the rear since you probably have the 9". You can wheel an 8.8 locked but it's a good idea to truss it up so the tubes don't flex and make your diff explode. 9" is the way to go if you've got one. I did run 33s with 4.56 gearing, detroit locker in the rear and open up front (I thought it was a LS but it wasn't) Limited slip is better than open IMO and won't make you crash when driving in the snow like a normal locker would up front. The Juice now Shadowfax ran the hell out of the TTB harder than I ever did and he ran an ARB up front. You've just got to be carefull with the TTB when locked because it is only stamped steel. True it's HD but it can be bent. (I recently learned that main leafs can be bent as well with my leaf SAS fully welded D60 front) But at the same time parts are a dime a dozen when it comes to that stuff but who wants to be changing out beams all the time?

I did love my truck on 33s described as above. It went everywhere I needed it too and it was really fun. For wheeling I strongly recomend the rear shackle flip to gain altitude for the rear and if you do this mod save up the 150 bucks to buy Skys hangers. It is well worth it. I just installed some myself for both my front and rear hangers. Or you could get another couple F150 pack from a wrecking yard and swap in 2 leafs and that would do the job just as well. I'm telling you this because I've learned the long way about it. I thought like everyone else that you NEEDED to buy lift leafs... NOT TRUE. Just mix and match a pack untill you are happy. But without the shackle flip adding 2 leafs from the F150 pack will net you around 4-6" of lift. My current setup uses the leafs as described and the shackle flip so I've got around 7-8" of lift back there right now. With 38s it looks like I'm riding pretty low. I'm enjoying it. I hope this helps you some. NORM
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