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-   -   Vent tubes (https://forums.off-road.com/ford-67-96-f-series-78-96-bronco/174526-vent-tubes.html)

slickerthanyou 08-20-2003 12:01 AM

Vent tubes
 
I just about finished my Ram-Air/Snorkel set up. As soon as the wife gets home I'll snap a few pick I will measure everything if anyone is interested, I was just thinking I'm gonna have to move my Vent tubes now a little higher my question is to where? How hard would it be to run them up the pillar of the windsheild, I thought someone on here did that? Well I'm insulating the sealed air box it has a clean K&N so I'm good for 25,000 miles. The 3" PVC tubing I used worked great. It's only maybe 25" from the hood (fresh-air) to the Box. I thought the shorter the cooler the air. I could of fabbed something easy to go from the center of the hood straight to the throttle body and make a place under the hood for a filter of course, But I didn't want something sticking straight up through the hood unless it's a super charger. It's right in the front drivers-side and the air on the road get rammed into the box thus, (BRAS) Bob's Ram- Air System. [img]images/graemlins/burnout.gif[/img] [img]images/graemlins/burnout.gif[/img] [img]images/graemlins/givemebeer.gif[/img]

I hate politicians!!! [img]images/graemlins/chair.gif[/img] [img]images/graemlins/scs.gif[/img] [img]images/graemlins/RockOn.gif[/img]

TheJuice 08-20-2003 01:16 AM

Re: Vent tubes
 
Hmmm, I'll hold on comment until I see-eth thy work.

Well maybe not....

What is the purpose of this? I know the question may sound stupid but, the reality is as follows:

Ram air snorkel..... If the catch is facing forward, it will also Ram alot of rain down the snorkel, so hopefully you've got that figured out.

If the Snorkel is that high, and then you want to move the vent tubes, what will you do for the 'puter module, fuse box, fan, distributor, and many other components that aren't that high? If you submerse them, well, things could get nasty. Why can't the vent tubes stay under the hood?

And you have totally waterproofed your hubs, correct? If not, then every time you go submarining, you will be looking at a total cleaning there.

I was dubbed the U-boat commander once, after an unfortunate incident with a Jeep Cherokee I once owned, thus my interst here.

GURGLE,
....... GUrgle,
................ Blub blub bl....

BigNorm 08-20-2003 09:27 AM

Re: Vent tubes
 
Why don't you just T all the vent lines into the snorkle itself? If water gets that high then you are screwed anyway.

slickerthanyou 08-22-2003 11:29 PM

Re: Vent tubes
 
Well I highly doubt I'll be in that deep of water ever, but after I made it I just thought, I could put a elbow pointing up and voila instant snorkel. I agree with you Juice, if I get in water over the hood, there isn't too much that isn't going to get wet. I was just dreaming I guess. As far as the rain, I put the elbow facing down like an upside down "L" and have had no problems so far. Although it has only rained minimal since I did this. Now as far as the 'puter I haven't figured out a good solution yet just making a plate and sealing it won't work because there are holes punched in the body where i'm sure water will find, and to be totally honest I would drive myself nuts trying to water proof the inside. I will get pics and post them to my site soon. My PC was wormed for the past few days and I have been trying to clean everything up, I know why I put everything on disc now! Tommorrow is suppose to be real nice here in the 'burgh so I'll snap away and get those up. I did go a little crazy with the jig saw so i'm gonna fab something to cover my 5" hole that was suppose to be 3". Boy if I had a sawzall I'd be dangerous. [img]images/graemlins/spank.gif[/img]


Norm, that is a great Idea- thanks

kd5kuu 08-23-2003 11:54 PM

Re: Vent tubes
 
Juice- how do you waterproof your hubs? Is there something else you can do besides the normal inspecting o-rings and replacing seals?

muddybronco 08-25-2003 07:09 PM

Re: Vent tubes
 
Juice says he gets most of the water intrusion from the lockout dial itself, which makes sense seeing how the other seals are very good and those dials don't seem very tight to me (except warn premium [img]images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]) I'm going to rig up some sort of rubber cap that I can put over the end of the hub after I lock them in, I just need to find something that diameter that will stay tight on there without having to use a clamp. (ideas very welcome!) I'm really curious if that would do the trick, because i got to thinking about it and it's not like my oilpan ever filled up with water when I used to dive dive dive, and there's nothing different about its seal than the hub seal, ya know? Plus I change it several times a year, rather than the once every 100k like the engine seals. The spindle is doubly sealed and packing the spindle full of grease would almost guarantee if water got in back there that it couldn't get into the main hub area to infect the wheel bearings. If you make the little spindle luber tool and have the right tools to get the lockouts removed fast, the spindle could actually be repacked after every water outing and take maybe half an hour to do both sides. Beats the hell out of stripping down the hubs and replacing wheel bearings!

Also, one other factor is the amount of unused space in the hub... the air heats up then contracts when it hits a lot of water, which sucks water right in even with good seals. So, if you're clever about reducing the free space in the hub, that couldn't hurt either! Technically it's bad practice, but some people fill the hub to the brim with extra grease. I'm not sure if it's worth it, given the possible failure due to improper churning of the grease at high speeds and nasty cleanup, but I think it's worth a try if you hit the mud a lot. Sorry to be long-winded but this is sort of a "research project" of mine since I love to run the mud and unfortunately know off hand all the Timken part #'s required to replace every seal and bearing in the hub [img]images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

Even if the dial is not a common leak point, I think the lockout-to-hub o-ring is because they rarely are tight enough to be convincing.... who has an idea for a boot of sorts to block off the whole end of the hub? [img]images/graemlins/40BEER.gif[/img]

reptillikus 08-25-2003 09:34 PM

Re: Hubs
 
You could always swap over to the flange-style hubs [img]images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img]

Actually, as much as everyone seems to hate them, i was cursed with finding them on my truck when i bought it, and so far so good! I barely get any water at all inside them at all. And im guilty of playing in alot of mud and water too. [img]images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

kd5kuu 08-26-2003 01:17 AM

Re: Hubs
 
I know just about all of my water intrusion is due to the Warn Premiums leaking water in. They seem to fit tight and the o-ring seems to seal nice, but every time I pull the hubs off there is corrosion and condensation on the inside of the hub.

muddybronco 08-26-2003 04:32 AM

Re: Hubs
 
hey Rept, do those lockouts have a seal on them? the Deuce has flange lockouts with no rubber seal, so is the force of the lug nuts supposed to metal-metal seal it? i don't trust that... RTV to the rescue I guess [img]images/graemlins/burnout.gif[/img]

BurnedBronco 08-26-2003 05:35 AM

Re: Hubs
 
</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
the Deuce has flange lockouts with no rubber seal, so is the force of the lug nuts supposed to metal-metal seal it? i don't trust that... RTV to the rescue I guess

[/ QUOTE ]
you really think thats goign to help when you have it 10 feet deep in the water? [img]images/graemlins/deal.gif[/img]


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