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post #1 of (permalink) Old 06-11-2003, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
 
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TTB Steering Update.

Factory tubular can make me two adjusting sleeves approx. 9 inches long to thread onto the existing drag link and tie rod. Cost is aprox. $85 shipped and the 3/4 inch hiems $99.44.
The sleeves will be made out of DOM tubing and will beef the stock stuff at the ends and I have already welded angle on the drag link and tie rod down to the threads. I can replace the ball joint at the pitman arm and where the tie rod ties into the drag link when they go bad with Heims. So this set-up should last the life of the vehicle (no more buying the whole drag link and tie rod because the joint goes bad). I will just have to replace heim ends all of them 3/4 so I can carry extra.. It's not cheap but less expensive than a Superrunner set-up which gets mixed reviews and much stronger than stock.
When I get this done and swap in the D50 slip yoke, I might have a bullet proof D44 IFS!
I was looking at running 3/4 ton chevy tie rod ends. they have a larger taper. You could taper from the top of the steering knuckle and get a good tight fit all the way through the knuckle. You still need custom sleeves to thread into and the taper drill bit.
If you drill from the top with the stock taper and flip your stock tie rod ends you are gonna have a taper that only contacts halfway through the knuckle. You might try to fill the space, but I don't think that is the way to go. No sleeve needed, gotta buy the taper bit, and would it loosen-up over time????? This would be the least expensive way to go but I don't want take the risk. I would not suggest doing this.
Thanks to Shilo, Predator OffRoad and Factory Tubular for working with me on this. I will update this post with pics when I get this done. I'm running 37's with 6 inches of spring lift and drop pitman arm. This mod should beef the steering by making the drag link and tie rod run parallel to the axles (Less stress on rods and joints), the addition of material (welded on 1/4 X 1 inch angle and the DOM tubing sleeves), and the addition of stonger Heim joints. I hope this is not just another expense, on the already long list to make D44 IFS work, only to go with a SAS. I could reuse the heim joints, but he sleeves, probably not.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 06-11-2003, 01:50 PM
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Re: TTB Steering Update.

would it be possible to mount some steel bar on top of the knuckle then mount the rod end to that?
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 06-11-2003, 02:43 PM
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Re: TTB Steering Update.

Can you post a picture or a link to a picture of the Heims joint?

Dave Couch
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 06-11-2003, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: TTB Steering Update.

I suppose anything would/could work. I thought of welding 1 1/4 inch DOM tubing to the existing drag link and tie rod. You would only have to thread one end and you would get two right hand heim joints (problem finding a machine shop with large left hand threads). That would work and be safe but if you did screw-up the drag link or tie rod you would have to do it all again. With sleeves I could transfer to a new drag link or tie rod and I may resale them. I wanted strength and no worries. One machine shop wanted me to sign a waiver of liability another would not work with me for the liability. I think the sleeves are the best way. I just ordered them. The price went to just less than $100 with shipping and because I went to the 1 1/4" DOM tubing vs. lighter 1".
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 06-11-2003, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: TTB Steering Update.

Heims, tubular, etc. Factorytubular.com
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 06-12-2003, 10:48 AM
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Re: TTB Steering Update.

Dude....










dude........










dude.



It's your money. Good luck
post #7 of (permalink) Old 06-12-2003, 02:26 PM
 
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Re: TTB Steering Update.

</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
I might have a bullet proof D44 IFS!


[/ QUOTE ] I still think you are walking the edge with those tires. Even though I may try them myself [img]images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] I don't think the steering will be your weak point when you are done here. I think after the slip shaft the outer shafts are the next weak link. At least it's not the pumpkin. [img]images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img]
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 06-12-2003, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: TTB Steering Update.

Dude! Shilo man, I agree. I'm making this too hard, but want to be safe.
The threads on the drag link and tie rod are metric! The sleeves would work but get pricey if I have to buy taps. I am going with the stock tie rod and drag link ends. I have ordered a tapered reamer from Goodson. I plan to braze the bottom of the steering knuckles before I use the tapered reamer. The brazing will fill it in so there will be no slack in the bottom of the knuckle. Reamer is $60 and I got extra tie rod ends and adjusting sleeves for the trail. The taper will be available if others want to do this. PM me for details. This is way less expensive and will be solid/safe.

Goodson
http://www.goodson.com/g5-bin/client.cgi
800 533-8010 Part number TR-216-2
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 06-12-2003, 06:50 PM
 
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Re: TTB Steering Update.

Don't forget to post pix when you are done. I was thinking that maybe drilling it out might not be too bad. Put some good Grade 8s through it, use heims, and use the stock pitman arm. If you did it this way you could use washers to space it perfectly and get the geometry right relatively easy. I would tack weld the bolts at the bottom of the knuck. In fact I'm thinking if you could get a pitman arm that rode higher you could get your steering up even higher using this idea. Of course this is just my daydreaming but I think it would work. Is there any bolts harder than grade 8's? I think they would do the job but overkill is never a bad idea with the steering system.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 06-12-2003, 07:11 PM
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Re: TTB Steering Update.

Yes, there are aircraft grade hardened bolts but they are overkill.com. Gr8 is plenty. Norm, you could move the steering box up on the frame if you wanted to get the linkage higher but this is starting to sound like a lot of work [img]images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
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