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post #1 of (permalink) Old 06-01-2003, 06:48 PM
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96 F250 transmission question

Hi board,
I hope you can help me. I own a 96 F250 two wheel drive with a 460 engine , auto transmission and a heavy duty rear end. I am looking at a 93 f250 for body parts and possible transmission swap. The 93 has a 302 engine with an E4 OD transmission. I cannot tell what model my transmission is. Any help on location model # would be appreciated. Or maybe you could tell me if this transmission would fit in regardless of existing. Inside my front door all I could find on info was the letter E under the letters TR. My transmission has been slipping and it looks like a knockout or plug is missing under the trans. but the fluid level seems fine. In addition the speedometer stops working when the transmission slips.
Thanks for your help,
Joe
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 06-01-2003, 09:46 PM
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Re: 96 F250 transmission question

your 96 does also have the E4OD but it has the big block bolt pattern, so the one out of the 93 wont bolt up. you could swap the internals over though. that missing rubber plug is access for the torque convertor drain plug, and it's not a critical piece. as far as the speedometer malfunction during the slip, you might get lucky there, as the E4OD is completely electronically controlled and it sounds like you might just have an electrical problem rather than a mechanical one. it could be as simple as a loose wire on the rear axle speed sensor, which will send the transmission into a fit. I would take a really close look at all that wiring before I started pulling trannies. good luck
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 06-01-2003, 10:45 PM
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Re: 96 F250 transmission question

Thanks for the quick reply. Geesh I hope it is only a wiring problem. The truck only has 150k on it and all my other f250's have gone over 250,000 miles before any major problems. It seems as if the truck is idling fast and noticeably jumps starting off in D, if I start in 1 or 2 there is not as much jump. I bought the truck used last fall and the Overdrive switch has never worked it just flashes on and off now and then. I got such a good deal I just avoided the overdrive gear and drove it as is. Do those symptoms give you any other possible solutions or narrow it down better? Also is it easy to locate the rear axle speed sensor? I really do not want to swap transmissions if I do not have to, I was hoping the 93 could be a back up if needed. I need the doors, fenders and tires off the truck so I will still look into buying it.
Thanks again!
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 06-02-2003, 12:14 AM
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Re: 96 F250 transmission question

Well your first line of defense is to pull the stored trouble codes out of the computer and see what the tranny says it detects. I have the same tranny and I've learned that it's a very fragile and complex beast, so diagnosis is quite different than most trannies. It might also be worth finding a tranny shop that will hook into it and see if your computer is screwy or what particular facet of the tranny is foul. The speedometer problem might give us some insight though. When you say it goes out, do you mean the needle drops to zero or does the odometer blank out as well? The speed sensor is easy to spot, it's on top of the rear axle and has 2 wires coming off it. They then go to the 4WABS computer, then to the PSOM(instrument cluster) where it gets calibrated to tire size, then to the PCM that controls tranny shifts. If you lose power to the PSOM, the tranny goes into a crazy safety mode and will shift HARD and wont shift at the correct times, and it definitely wont get to OD. I know there is a common problem with a loose ground somewhere behind the instrument cluster, and if you have this problem then it might be intermittantly killing power to the PSOM, which of course will make the tranny go nuts.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 06-02-2003, 06:48 AM
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Re: 96 F250 transmission question

Hi,
The speedometer will jump from zero to traveling speed, then stop completely sometimes. The odometer stops ticking off miles when the speedometer stops but is always visible.
Thanks again.
Joe
post #6 of (permalink) Old 06-02-2003, 03:40 PM
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Re: 96 F250 transmission question

OK, well it's worth pulling the sensor out of the rear axle and check its surface to see if metal shavings have collected on it, since it's magnetic. I bet it's either that or a wiring problem, so check the wires from the sensor on up the frame, especially around your exhaust (mine got melted on my aftermarket dual pipe).
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 06-02-2003, 08:11 PM
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Re: 96 F250 transmission question

I agree - it sounds like a problem with the ABS sensor on the diff.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 06-02-2003, 09:10 PM
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Re: 96 F250 transmission question

I crawled under the truck today and I think I located the correct wires. Is it the connection that is towards the front of the truck side of the axle? It is a plug in connection. Can I pull this sensor out myself and replace it? Should I buy a manual to walk me thru it. Any idea of the cost?
Thank you
post #9 of (permalink) Old 06-02-2003, 09:18 PM
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Re: 96 F250 transmission question

I just realized my ABS light has been on recently as well, would that tie together with everything else? I had no idea my truck was so complicated. My first vehicle I drove was my dads 65 Ford stepside that shifted on the steering column. It started every day no matter what temperature and never broke down once in my teen years. Simple and was incredible fun on dirt roads. Thanks for helping me with this problem.
post #10 of (permalink) Old 06-02-2003, 11:59 PM
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Re: 96 F250 transmission question

"things have changed" [img]images/graemlins/chairfall.gif[/img]

there's only 2 wires going to the rear axle, so if you see them then you've found it. it's just one bolt and then the sensor pulls straight out of the housing. make sure the surrounding area is clean when you pull it so no junk falls inside the axle housing. then just look at the end of the sensor and see if metal dust is covering the end. if so, wipe it off and put it back in the housing. If it appears to be damaged, replace it (probably around $75). If problems persist, it's time to look at the wiring. The ABS computer will not be happy about front sensors reading 50 mph and rear sensor reading zero, so that could be why the light is on. Your truck is OBD2-equipped, so if you go have the codes pulled you should be able to get the ABS errors at the same time. Pulling codes on the older EEC trucks is easy, I dont know if you can cheaply/easily do it yourself on the OBD trucks or not, but that is the greatest feature of these newfangled fancy computerized systems [img]images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]
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