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post #1 of (permalink) Old 03-08-2003, 12:40 AM Thread Starter
 
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TTB/Adjustable Camber bushings

Ok, some pics will be coming. so far, so good.

To recap, I bought new 35" MT/R's.

I just added 1/2" coil spacers front, 1" block rear, in addition to the 4" lift I already had.

Camber was bad at +1.75-2 degrees both side, as best I can measure, using craftsman protractor/angle finder, levels, etc.

I purchased Shilo's old superlift adjustable bushings, and now have the drivers side installed. Here is a brief rundown:

They work!













Hehehheheh [img]images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img] [img]images/graemlins/lame.jpg[/img]


Ok, took driver side castle nut off, turned it over, screwed it back on, and started hammerin away! BANG BANG BANG, .....

After about an hour of that, prying, and a pipe wrench, I got it!!! pryed it out, and at that point, you can really get a feel for how moving the upper ball joint affects the outer hub (which affects the wheel since it bolts to it), and the caster (the relative angle between the top and bottom ball joints).

I installed the adjustables at max setting (high side of bushing closest to coil spring). Well, it must have been my lucky day, cuz even though they are adjustable, generally you have to lower the vehicle with wheel back on, and move it forward and back a good distance to see where it ends up at. Anyway, this max setting was perfect! I tested before buttoning it all back up, but now that it is all done on that side, as best I can measure with my instruments, I am at .25-.5 degrees +. So, this has helped eliminate apx. 1.25-1.5 + camber, putting me in the ideal range for this year bronco (.25+).

Hopefully experience will allow me to nail the other side now. the drivers side took about 2 hours, plus an hour or so looking at the measurements, and adjusting toe, which does get whacked as well [img]images/graemlins/cussing.gif[/img]

The other side should take about the same, plus a bit to again mess with toe, but the whole thing has not been bad. [img]images/graemlins/bs.gif[/img]
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 03-08-2003, 05:35 AM
 
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Re: TTB/Adjustable Camber bushings

Cool. Keep us posted. [img]images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 03-08-2003, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: TTB/Adjustable Camber bushings

OK Norm, and whomever else may be interested, here is the completion....


but wait, I just can't stop thinking of that pic of you Norm.... [img]images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

Makes me laugh every time I see that face! [img]images/graemlins/ooo.gif[/img]

Anyway, for those that might be needing to work on alignment, espcially camber, don't be afraid. Due to good parts, and a few tools, this job is finished, and man was it easy.

I took pics of the tools I used, the old 1 degree bushings I removed, the new ones (superlift) that are adjustable, etc. But suffice to say that the other side was done in 1 hr! The bushing was out in 20minutes. [img]images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] I will post the pics soon.

Now, I know on some of the older trucks that have not been lifted, these babies may be in a bit more tightly (rusted). So if the ball joints are suspect, now is the time to work on those too.

These bushings I think are adjustable to 2 3/4 degrees. I already had 1 degree in the ones I had. so I was only going to get another 1 3/4. But that was just enough. I used them at full camber, and as best I can tell, I have 3-6 degrees + CASTER, and .25-.5 + CAMBER. The book says I should have between 2-6 = caster, and .25 N to .75 P, so I am in great shape. Tires now look like they are not tilted. Only dilemma I have is that I have not put that other 1/4" worth of coil spacer in yet. that will add maybe .25P

Anyway, once done, if you had + camber, you will probably need to adjust toe inward. - camber you will need to adjust toe out. It does throw it off slightly. Adjusting toe in is done by rotating the sleeve on the steering tie rod end for the offending tire toward the front and up and over toward the back. If you need toe out, you will rotate under toward the back and around and over toward the front. With Toe, do small increments of rotation at a time. Broncos should be slightly toe-in, about 1/32 or so.

I was quoted $60/bushing (non-adjustable, just more angle) and another $40 for labor from Firestone. If you have a decent set of basic tools, this is easily money saved by doing it yourself.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 03-09-2003, 05:18 PM
 
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Re: TTB/Adjustable Camber bushings

Juice take some pictures PPPPlease! It sounds good to me. I'll put it on my todo list after I put some add a leafs in the back. I need that to level out my shackel flip (I hope). This is my current order of projects: York Bracket, roof rack, Weld up Beadlock project, Chevy TBI. That's all my brain can handle in advance so I'll keep you posted as I go. lol
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 03-09-2003, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: TTB/Adjustable Camber bushings

Pic 1, old bushing on left, 1 degree adjustment, new bushing on right.


Pic 2, old bushing coming out.



Pic 3, Tools used, I forgot though, I also used a 1 1/8" wrench.



Pic 4, New bushing, on top of ball joint hole and ready to be tapped in.



Pic 5, new bushing in place, notice how it sits straight up and down, this has corrected the positive camber.

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 03-10-2003, 12:25 PM
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Re: TTB/Adjustable Camber bushings

Nice job Mark!
And think of all the money you'll save by doing your own alignments now. [img]images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
Did you loosen the lower ball joint nut at all, like was suggested?
That is a bear getting those bushings out the first time isn't it?! [img]images/graemlins/thud.gif[/img]
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 03-10-2003, 01:43 PM
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Re: TTB/Adjustable Camber bushings

how exactly are you verifying that you have perfect camber? i want to start doing my own alignments, and i've got some ideas on how to do this fairly easily, but i'm wondering what technique you use to square up the camber. i know Doug has an alignment writeup on the BBS, anybody have that link in their favorites?

as for TOE, i had a thought.... since caster automatically centers the wheel, couldnt you disconnect the tie rod from both sides and roll the truck forward a couple feet, then adjust the rod ends to wherever the knuckles end up? sorta centering like a "caster wheel" does? i was considering building a jig that bolts to the hubs and extends way out in front of the truck and measuring the distances at various points to give me 0 toe, but if the caster method would work, i wouldnt even have to take off the tires [img]images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]

whatcha think, will it work? any other ideas? [img]images/graemlins/40BEER.gif[/img]
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 03-10-2003, 02:09 PM
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Re: TTB/Adjustable Camber bushings

Go drive it around a bit, pull it back into the shop, and re-measure.

muwahahahahah

And are you measuring it as pic'd on jackstands??? Won't work, the WMS exerts more leverage on the beams. Drop it with the wheels mounted and watch what happens.
post #9 of (permalink) Old 03-10-2003, 02:20 PM
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Re: TTB/Adjustable Camber bushings

TTB designer --> [img]images/graemlins/chair.gif[/img] <-- TTB driver (or aligment technician [img]images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img])
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 03-10-2003, 02:35 PM
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Re: TTB/Adjustable Camber bushings

And are you measuring it as pic'd on jackstands???
Won't work, the WMS exerts more leverage on the beams.
Drop it with the wheels mounted and watch what happens.

Good catch <font color="blue">Shilo</font color>.
I forgot to mention something about that.
<font color="blue">TheJuice</font color>, you won't get accurate measurements on the jackstands.
You've got to check the final camber and toe after driving it around a bit.
At least back it in and out of your garage while turning the wheels to "settle" everything in.
The stance will be noticeably different on the loaded wheels vs the stands.

BTW, what's WMS? [img]images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img] [img]images/graemlins/chair.gif[/img]

<font color="blue">Muddybronco</font color>:
Here's the alignment link.
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