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post #1 of (permalink) Old 11-26-2002, 10:12 PM
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overcooling problem

Hi all,
I have an overcooling problem which has me stumped. My temp guage hovers around the bottom end of the 'normal' range and I get very little heat (winter's moving in fast). I tested the guage and it can swing to full scale. The heater core was replaced about a year ago when I bought the truck and since then I've installed a new 192 degree thermostat and a grille cover, both having no effect. The coolant level is OK. Suposedly the last owner had the block changed and the new block is a H.O. block. I don't know if that makes a difference to any of the plumbing requirements for the cooling system though. Hopefully someone out there has a clue for me before winter hits hard and I turn into an ice cube. [img]images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]

Thanks.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 11-27-2002, 09:28 AM
 
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Re: overcooling problem

Take a cooking themometer and measure the coolants temp after you drive it. See if it it reaching 192 degrees.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 11-27-2002, 11:01 AM
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Re: overcooling problem

Good idea, I'll check that.

Thanks.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 11-27-2002, 10:48 PM
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Re: overcooling problem

Consider replacing the heater hoses. If you do, crank the engine with the supply hose off & see how much coolant is getting pumped to the core. Then reconnect it & check the other to see how much is coming thru the core.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 11-27-2002, 11:06 PM
 
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Re: overcooling problem

Atleast you dont have to worry about over heating
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 11-28-2002, 01:14 AM
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Re: overcooling problem

yeah but if it doesn't get warm enough it will not run as efficient(as if that's possible). The ECT will tell the PCM the motor is not warm enough and will keep it running rich to warm it up. Fords rely HEAVILY on the ECT to control fuel trim.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 11-30-2002, 12:58 PM
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Re: overcooling problem

Well, I ckecked the temp of the coolant in the rad. The most it get's up to is about 100 degrees F, and that's after it's been running for a 1/2 hour. At that point the heater hoses are hot and moderate heat comes out. The upper rad hose is only a warm, not hot. I also tried crimping the upper rad hose with clamps to make sure there is no coolant flow through the rad, but the temp still climbs extremly slow. I'm starting to think this truck is more air cooled than liquid cooled. By the way, the fan clutch has also been replaced with a new one (I think I forgot to mention that).

Any more clues out there? Also what's the purpose of the bypass hose which routes between the water pump and the thermostat housing?
post #8 of (permalink) Old 11-30-2002, 01:23 PM
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Re: overcooling problem

But where did you check the temp in the radiator, hopefully not on the fill (drivers side) cause it would have already cooled down.

Best way is to get it to the highest temp it will after driving around and borrow a *thermoscan* thermometer, point it at the pass. side cooling fins just inside the right radiator tank or the thermostat housing if its accessible.

Its not cause you have a HO block, i have one in mine from a 95 cobra mustang and though im running on the cool side, my heaters working now that i have a 195 t-stat.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 11-30-2002, 10:28 PM
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BWAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAA

Sorry, but that's hilarious! [img]images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] [img]images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]

"Also what's the purpose of the bypass hose which routes between the water pump and the thermostat housing? "

That hose bypasses the heater core, so NO WATER EVEN GOES TO IT. [img]images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img] It must've had a leak and someone was too cheap/lazy/uninformed to replace the heater core, so they bypassed it. [img]images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]

No wonder you're not getting much heat - all you're getting is hot air that blows out of the engine compartment and gets sucked into the wiper valance!
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 12-01-2002, 07:06 AM
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by-pass hose

That 90 degree hose is supposed to be there, all 5.0s & 5.8s have one, it is not on the two (inlet and oulets) to the heater core.

Im not 100% sure, but i believe its to relieve strain on the waterpump when the t-stat is in the shut position by still allowing some water to circulate.
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