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post #1 of (permalink) Old 11-26-2002, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
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Screwy Proportioning valve possibly?

After all this brake work, my bronco no longer shakes (thanks to straight rotors),BUT the darn thing is still darting to the left after driving a few miles and the brakes warm up [img]images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img].

It has been doing this for quite some time, even before thorough front suspension analysis, before my rear axle brg. started leaking, *new* hydraulic hoses, so i dont believe anything other than the front brake system from the Proportioning valve to the pads can still be causing this, but i DID notice that all four PSA backed shims on the new pads are bunching up and have shifted forward, and alternately left & right side, occasionally have a burning pad odor from the front brakes.

Is it possible something could be fud-up with that valve, which isnt the type with that bleeder rod btw, or does this still sound like both (2nd set) of reman calipers are sticking from time to time [img]images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]. Keep in mind that it has been doing this before with the original calipers and i just checked the 3 year old pads and the inners and outers are exactly to the *thousanth* evenly worn on both sides. I dont get it...

Sorry for the long post, but this is really driving me nuts [img]images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]

Oh, let me add that the only looseness in the front suspension is a tiny bit of play from my steering box, according to the alignment mechanic, but it would seem to me that if this had anything to do with it, it would pull in either direction if at all. I will fix that as soon as i figure a way to adjust it w/o buying a $150.00 torque wrench that will go down to 7 inch lbs.


Any advise will greatly be appreciated [img]images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
Thanks, Craig
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 11-27-2002, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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off to the garage!

Well I took in to have it checked and they claim:

-----------------------------------------------------

the ADVANCEauto parts reman phenolic calipers are pure JUNK! [img]images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img]

------------------------------------------------------

So OFF they come and they better give me a new set of pads (regardless of the fact the manager confiscated my original receipt after i returned the first set of calipers [img]images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img] [img]images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img] [img]images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img] [img]images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img] [img]images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img] and he tells me he`s only ever had 2 defective ones before)...

Those JERKS, just may hafta take someone elses advice and just start buying my stuff from $$$NAPA$$$ [img]images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 11-27-2002, 09:25 PM
 
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Re: Advance parts!

I have in the last 3 or 4 months have had problems with Advance myself. It's like they turned into the ZONE .
I have been a Napa buyer for about a month now. I seem to pay a little more but, 1.Get the right part the first time 2.Quality parts 3.More knowledgeable staff. That's the way I've gone. I can't help you on the proportioning valve. It sounds as if it still maybe a caliper issue to me?! [img]images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 11-27-2002, 09:41 PM
 
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Re: Advance parts!

Actual i found a way to get a low reading torque wrench without the cost. Found this old spring scale that reads up to 8 lbs and drilled a small hole in the end of a ratchet thats gear switch had snapped off so it only went forward. The ratchet is out in a tool box and its too cold outside to go digging but i cut it down to 12 inches and 1 foot by #pounds on scale = # of foot lbs
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 11-27-2002, 10:45 PM
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Re: rotors

Ford put out a TSB that torquing the lugnuts improperly will IMMEDIATELY warp the rotors... [img]images/graemlins/ooo.gif[/img]
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 11-29-2002, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Advance parts!

Clever there McDerry [img]images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img], but this is *inch* pounds, dont think there is a way to convert the ounces to inches .
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 11-30-2002, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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phenolics not the cause

Well i did what the mechanic at the garage suggested (where i took it for alignment), and returned the phenolic piston calipers and installed steel ones, but same thing, getting hot and burning pad odor [img]images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]

My only guess is the lack of properly working rear brakes causing the fronts to work *too* hard or the proportioning valve is plugged up somehow [img]images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]

so i guess i will start looking into the rear brakes tomorrow...

My XLT-<font color="blue">NO</font color>stopping!
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 12-02-2002, 08:56 PM
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Re: Screwy Proportioning valve possibly?

Sounds to me like one or both of your front brake hoses have collapsed inside,wich makes the hose act like a one way valve.It will let fluid pass when you press the braked pedal,but it wont let the fluid return.I would jack the left front wheel up,start it up and have someone push the brake pedal down and release it.As soon as they release it try to spin the tire by hand.It should spin fairly easily within about a second after they let off the pedal.If it hangs up for several seconds or not at all it could be the rubber hose.Try both sides,remember if you remove your calipers to clean and lubricate the slide areas top and bottom to insure that the pads wear evenly and you get the best performance.I have worked on ford trucks for about 10 years and have done about everything there is on brakes,if this doesnt work let me know and we will try something else,Bo.
post #9 of (permalink) Old 12-02-2002, 09:14 PM
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Re: Screwy Proportioning valve possibly?

I have adjusted steering boxes by loosening the adjuster lock nut while holding the adjuster screw with a screw driver so it doesnt back off with the nut,back the nut off one turn.Jack both front wheels off the ground,turn the screw an eighth of a turn clockwise,grab the steering arm and move it back and forth,if you feel a little clunk in the box when you move it,tighten it a little more,try again.Do this until you just get rid of the clunk or freeplay.Tighten the locknut while holding the screw so it doesnt move,try to steer it with the engine off and make sure it is not binding,then start it and try again.This is not the way ford suggest you do this,this is how I have done it 4 times with good successes,do this at your owm discrepency.Keep track of how much you turn the screw in case you want to put it back the way it was.Bo.
post #10 of (permalink) Old 12-02-2002, 09:38 PM
 
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Re: Advance parts!

actual doing the math its about 9/16 of a foot pound to be 7 inch pounds and works nicely, especial sence spring scale is marked to the nearest 16 or 1 oz in this case.
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