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post #1 of (permalink) Old 08-04-2002, 06:31 AM Thread Starter
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Changing body mount bushings

My bushings are shot, cracked, popping noises all over everytime it twists. Is it possible to swap out (with new polys) just a few at a time when i have a couple hours to spare, or is it necessary to jack up one side at a time?

Looks like a 3 day project to do them all at once, especially the ones with rusted bolts & i got to pull the carpet up????

Too busy to lately to have the truck tied up, but those pops are really annoying me[img]images/icons/mad.gif[/img]...
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 08-04-2002, 10:50 AM
 
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Re: Changing body mount bushings

I'm thinking you can. I'm in the same boat, though it is just my 2 front ones that are bad.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 08-05-2002, 11:21 PM
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Re: Changing body mount bushings

<font color=green>Here are the instructions I've sent to others. It didn't take me more than 5 hours working alone to change the whole truck, and I had to hacksaw 2 mounts and file 2 bolt heads. I wouldn't try doing them one at a time - you might twist the body permanently.</font color=green>

The rearmost bolts are the easiest to get to - just remove the tailgate
threshhold and peel the carpet back. The bolts (13mm heads I think)
are right there. If the heads are rusted (like mine), you can file
them down to a smaller hex so you can turn them again.
Continue peeling carpet forward and you'll see the access plates for
the next mounts, beside the wheelwells. I think the screws have 8mm
heads and all the rest of the bolts are 15mm.
The next set is just behind the front seats and I got to mine by pulling
the door threshholds, seatbelt reel covers, and kick panels (for the
next bolts). Then peel the carpet around until the access plates are
visible.
The last inside bolts are in the footwells. With the threshholds and
kick panels out, the carpet can be peeled from around the e-brake cable
and high-beam switch. I think these access plates have different screws.
The core support bolts are just outside the radiator opening on the
back side. These will be the worst because of battery acid and road
salt.


The lower section of the mounts consists of a nut welded to a round
plate with a tube sticking up. The tube has a flare near the top end.
The upper section is a plate with a tube going down that has a neck
near the bottom. At the factory, these tubes are pressed together
thru the frame with the rubber captive between the plates. This holds
them on before the body is dropped on and bolted down. It's also the
only reason this is a tricky job. The tubes lock together with corrosion
over the years and when the rubber sags, they funnel grit down onto
the bolts and their threads, making them sometimes impossible to remove
intact.

The tricks:
1. If you can con someone competent into doing it for less than $100,
get him working on it before the drugs wear off.
2. If you must do it yourself, have a good socket set with good ratchets,
extensions, and breaker bars, as well as a ball peen hammer, a blunt
drift (punch), vise grips, pry bars, a jack, 2-4 jack stands, a 6-foot
4x4 post, a hacksaw (Stanley Contractor with bimetalloy blades is the
best), anti-sieze lubricant, and all the Liquid Wrench from your state
and the 3 surrounding.
3. Soak the bolts (especially INSIDE the tubes) with Liquid Wrench
several times over the course of a week before starting.
4. Use the pry bars to lift the body and get the Liquid Wrench spray
tube on top of the top plate to fill the top tube.
5. Back up the nut from below (above on the core support) with vise
grips or wrenches so you don't twist it off the plate.
6. If the bolt won't turn, try vibrating it with the hammer &amp; drift
(only on the head) to loosen the threads and let the Liquid Wrench
get in.
7. Work down one frame rail at a time so the body doesn't shift out
of line.
8. When you finally get a bolt out, rinse it and the hole it came
out of with Liquid Wrench and thread it back in about 5 turns. Put
the drift squarely on top of the head and smack it with the hammer.
After you lose a few fingernails, the tubes will separate and the
bottom section will drop out.
9. BIG TIP ! ! ! Coat the threads with "Anti-Sieze Lubricant" !!!
(I use it on everything.)
10. If the bolt won't turn, or the head strips, or the nut breaks
off, you will have to hacksaw through the tubes. Do it as high as
you can so you can reuse the lower section when you eventually separate
them. If the bolt breaks, you can still separate the tubes with the
drift and get the bolt out later. Don't be afraid to rip the old rubber
out of your way - you won't be reusing it.
11. When you have an entire side free (even if there are mounts that
need to be hacksawed), put the post under the door running front-to-back
along as many body reinforcements as possible. Then use it to lift
the body with the jack - 2 inches should be plenty. Don't go too high
or you'll damage the fuel filler and the fan or shroud. Later models
also have ground straps that may be too short, but they can be pried
off and hammered back on.
12. Remove the old mounts (by hacksawing if necassary) and top sections
and immediately replace them with the new ones. (You should have already
prepared them per mfr. instructions.)
13. Lower the body straight back onto the new mounts and reinstall
the bottom sections and bolts (this is where an assistant is handy).
If you must buy new bolts, get at least grade 5 or class 5.5; grade
8 or class 8.8-10.8 is better.
14. If you have a mechanical clutch linkage (like me), adjust it.
Automatics may have to adjust the shift linkage.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 08-06-2002, 12:04 AM
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Re: Changing body mount bushings

i think those mounts are one reason my truck rides so crappy... where can i get a replacement set and how much dinero? i dont know if i really care about poly, just want to get some new ones under there. how can i really tell if they're bad? the front ones under the core are cracked but the rest look ok on the outside. i tightened the 4 in the back yesterday but they seemed to be pretty damn tight already, so what gives? from Steve's description of them it sounds as if you cant really tighten the bushings themselves, just the body to the tube structure? i guess that means i do need new ones because the bottoms arent tight at all, but the tops are cuz the body is squishing them.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 08-06-2002, 12:06 AM
 
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Re: Changing body mount bushings

What if you just took a sawzall and cut em in half and just bought all new bolts?.Sounds like it might not be a bad idea to replace em anyway.

Billy
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 08-06-2002, 12:18 AM
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Re: Changing body mount bushings

yeah that's my plan. from trying to tighten them yesterday i realized they arent coming off without a fight! [img]images/icons/laugh.gif[/img] realistically, you'll probably find that hard to do on the very rear ones without taking off the bumper. dammit, and i just put that thing back on! [img]images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 08-06-2002, 12:55 AM
 
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Re: Changing body mount bushings

Yeah I used steve83 instructions when i did mine and had no problems had to cut two of mine in half and not sure if it is a good idea or not. The sleeves that run through the bushings are wedged together to make a solid support running through the bushings. I only cut two so I didnt figure it would hurt to much. On mine the front bushings by the radiator the sleeves were threaded from the factory and the bushings were supposed to keep it from spinning. Of course they didnt so I had to take a chisel and cut the bushing in half and use a open end wrench to hold the sleeve while I removed the bottom nut. I fixed that problem when I put it back together and ran a drill bit down through it just enough so the bolt would slide threw. I spent $90 on body lift and $80 dollars on new bushing. I got the bushings from http://www.macsspring.com/website/ur...pivotframe.htm and the body lift from 4wheel part
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 08-06-2002, 06:52 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Changing body mount bushings

I kind of like billys idea here IF the new poly bushings come with the tubes. The way you describe the procedure Steve, i assume they do but in the body bushing kits pictured in catalogs, the only thing i see is big bright red doughnuts.

So is it safe to say, if i didnt have the time to spare to do the whole truck at once, i could at least do one side at a time?
If everything went smoothly, i would continue on and do the whole thing but that looks like more than a 5 hour job for me, unless using the sawzall is a good idea. I mean you left out quite a few steps there, *BEER* breaks [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]

Craig
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 08-06-2002, 07:59 AM
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Re: Changing body mount bushings

The Energy kits don't come with the steel tube/flange/nut parts, so that's why I advise against cutting.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 08-06-2002, 01:58 PM
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Re: Changing body mount bushings

I gotta agree with <font color=blue>Steve83</font color=blue> here.
Don't cut the mounts unless you have to!
Those are integrated parts (steel tube/flange/nut) and are not going to function properly if they aren't 1 piece.
I'm sure the parts are available from the dealer?$$$$

I put the Energy Suspension (stock height) bushings on mine.
No, they don't come with any hardware.
Follow Steve's totally inclusive directions, and get as many cans of WD-40/Liquid Wrench/PB Blaster,
or whatever your favorite is, that you can afford.
That's the ticket.[img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]
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