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Ford 67-96 F-Series, 78-96 Bronco All discussions of 67-96 F-Series Trucks and 78-96 Broncos

 
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 05-01-2000, 09:09 AM
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won\'t start

I just got the bronco sounding good with the new pipe and the header leak fixed, and now it leaves me stranded. I drove to a friend's house, shut it down, and got a nasty run on, and a hiss. It started, ran about three miles to my house; and I shut it off. I got up this morning, it won't start. It turns over, it wants to start. It will start with lot's of pedal, but immediately dies when gas is let up.

My theory: the spark run on and hiss caused the distributor to get loose. It was ok for the three mile trip home, but the timing was thrown way off. So if I tinker with the timing, it should be running again. I hope...... What do you guys think?? You guys are a great resource.

While I have your attention. I am thinking about putting a Mallory dist. in. The factory rep told me all I need to do is hookup the vaccum advance and get a source of power to it, and it will do the rest. I am wanting to by pass my computer...... Can it be that easy??? For $260 for the distributor, something had better be that easy...

headers on a 6 banger
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 05-01-2000, 08:23 PM
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Re: won\'t start

That is all it takes. I should let you know that on your 86 Bronco, the Distributor is not actually managed by the Computer. The computer under the dash is mainly for emissions components and Electronic Fuel Feedback Carburetor. (If you still have this.) I notice by the tag line that you have the 300 I-6. I still run the factory ignition system and distributor, but all of the emissions components, wiring harness, and computer have been removed from my truck. I found that only three of the wires are needed for the module on the distributor. Red=Power Green and Yellow=Coil The ignition module actually controls the advance and dwell. The Mallory distributor will work the same way. One wire for power and two for the coil. It uses an electronic trigger setup instead of points and uses mechanical and vacuum advance systems to adjust the ignition curve vs. the module having it pre programmed in. So in effect, that is as easy as it gets. Being able to adjust the ignition curve will also net you more performance out of that six as well.

I went about the whole thing differently and found a performance module with a better ignition curve programmed in and use Holley's spark box to get more power through the coil and change the advance. I spent more money to get the same effect, but I was able to better seal my distributor against water and have a few more bells and whistles. The Mallory option is very direct and simple and will give you trouble free operation. I guess all of this was just an FYI and to give you something to think about. Good luck, Eric.

If it ain't broke, I can probably still fix it.
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