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post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-31-1999, 09:51 PM
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lift kits/tires

Just got a 95 eb 351 4eod full size and was interested in putting on larger tires. Just has stock on there now. 35" seem nice and would like to go this route but have questions about the amount of lift that i need. the best kit(suspension) and if radius arms are needed. What about the axle ratios? The door plate says that i have a #19 rear. Is that the standard 3.55? It seems to have enough power with the 351 (how much horsepower does this engine have?) but what experiences has anybody had with the 35" tires, or would 33" be better? I am going to do some off road but mostly around town. Thanks. Also if there is something else i should know please tell me.

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 01-03-2000, 08:30 AM
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Re: lift kits/tires

Sorry, I can't help on the tires and lift, but Axle Code 19 is the 3.55 open diff. A code H9 is 3.55 Limited-Slip. If the 8th digit of your VIN is "H", then Chilton says your 351 is 210 HP. I have a '94 351 w/3.55 LS, and the LS still works good, and that, along with the good weight distribution of Bronco's (as compared to pickups!), I have been impressed with what it can do in just 2WD.

post #3 of (permalink) Old 01-05-2000, 10:55 AM
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Re: lift kits/tires

>>>Hi, Wackum. For the 35's not to hit or rub you will need a 6 inch suspension or 4 inch susp. and 2 inch body lift. New radius arms will improve the ride on and off road-they also improve the articulation when off road. It is best to get a kit with recurved arms so the tires don't rub or at least only a little. With 10 inch wheels and recurved arms you should have little or no rubbing. With 8 inch whells you may need to back your steering locks out to compensate(this will widen your turning radius). As far as brands, there are several companies: Procomp, Tuff Country, Dick Cepek, Rancho, Superlift, Skyjacker, and a few others. These are just the ones I have knowledge of. The biggest complaint I have heard about any of these is the way the axle pivot brackets fit-some need a little adjusting, but, I have heard that about all of them except for Rancho(only make up to 4 inch kits) and Dick Cepek. All of these offer extended radius arms for better ride. They all offer either blocks or add-a-leafs for the rear. You can buy whole replacement spring packs(best lift method), but, they cost anywhere from 380-500 extra. The add-a-leaf way is a little better method than the blocks for the rear(less axle wrap on and off road). There are a couple of high end kit makers if you have more than 800-1100 to put into a kit(Camburg and Fabtech). As far as the gears go. You could probably live with the gears you have since you have an auto, but, your rig will be a lot less lively and my have some trouble running at highway speeds against high winds. You would also see the worst fuel economy you have ever seen in your life. On the other hand, you could swap the gears to a 4.56 ratio and be in the same rpm band(maybe even a little better) as you were stock with the tiny tires. Example: I have a 6 inch Procomp stage II lift with 4.56 gears and 36 inch Swampers-speedometer is within 1 mile per hour of its original setting(due to gear change) and the performance is similar to stock(a little less though due to weight and rolling resistance of larger tires). If you plan only mild offroading I would recommend the Rancho 4 inch kit and any 33 inch mud tire(4.10 gears). Occasional heavy offroading-definitly the 35's, 4.56's, and just about any of the afore mentioned 6" kits(my Procomp kit bolted up with no problems). You may want to consider a traction differential or two while the pumpkins are open. Any questions, feel free to e-mail [email protected]. Good luck to you.

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