I can't shut if off - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
Ford 67-96 F-Series, 78-96 Bronco All discussions of 67-96 F-Series Trucks and 78-96 Broncos

 
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 11-15-1999, 12:09 PM
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I can\'t shut if off

My 88 Bronco has a problem. I can't shut it off with the key. I pulled into Burger King Friday night to get my son a kids meal with the pokemon toy inside...anyway, I turned the key to the off position and it came out, but the engine kept running. I went to the local Autozone for a replacement ignition switch, but that did not fix it. Right now I have to pull the coil wire and then disconnect the battery because it stays in the run position. It starts with the key just fine. When I changed the ingition switch I looked at the gear inside the steering column that the switch engages and it looked fine. I have never had to go inside the steering column so I am hoping that someone here might be able to tell me where I should go from here. The Chiltons manual does not have any info other than how to replace the switch. Thanks for your help!

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img] MG48 - 88 Bronco
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 11-16-1999, 12:30 AM
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Re: I can\'t shut if off

Maybe Pokemon could have helped... then again, maybe they only work on Toyota's!

Don't know if this helps, it's from a 94 shop manual. The ignition switch itself is adjustable a bit up and down the column, so that when the rod moves from the key cylinder, the ignition switch guts are solidly in the switch position selected.

I wonder if yours is out of adjustment, or maybe something is worn at the key cylinder end that caused the effective rod length to change.

Anyway, here's the adjustment procedure:
1) Place key in ignition switch and rotate to the LOCK position (ACC-LOCK-OFF-ON-START is the sequence going C.C.W.)

2)Loosen washer-nuts retaining the ignition switch to the steering column tube.

3)Align clip hole in the ignition switch with the ignition switch actuating rod end.

4)Center the ignitionswitch on the ignition switch actuating rod.

5)Tighten the washer-nuts to 40-65 inch pounds and remove clip (what clip??).

6)Check for correct ignition switch operation.

I'm assuming that from 88 to 94 that not much changed in that area, but I could be wrong.

Good luck, UncleDon


post #3 of (permalink) Old 11-16-1999, 08:20 AM
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Re: I can\'t shut if off

>>>Hey, I had the opposite problem in my 89 F-150, wouldn't start. A piece inside the column broke and would let nothing happen. There is a small piece that the cylinder has to slide back and forth. This has a loop on the end of it that holds the rod that activates the switch in the dash. If one end of it breaks it could cause this sort of problem-will push it, but, won't pull back. To test if this little "horse shoe looking slider thingy" is too blame you can pull the cover off around the column where it meets the dash. There are two screws in it facing down, phillips I think. Once this cover is off you will see the rod, on top side of the column, that activates the switch. Turn the rig on and turn the switch back to shut it off, did it move? If not, you have a broken "horse shoe looking slider thingy". Now you may shut the truck off using a pair of pliers to pull the rod back. If this is it give me an e-mail or just post and I'll give you some idea of the repair you're in for. Good luck to ya. Later.

NUFF SAID
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 11-16-1999, 08:56 AM
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Re: I can\'t shut if off

Hey, that makes sense, mudmonger. That could explain why he can turn back TWO positions (from ON to OFF to LOCK), and still really be "ON". Last night when I looked up the switch adjustment, it seemed that the switch out of adjustment might have explained the overlap of ONE position, but not TWO positions. But the rod not pulling back would explain why two positions apart is possible (actual switch in ON, key in LOCK).
UncleDon

post #5 of (permalink) Old 11-16-1999, 10:28 AM
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Re: I can\'t shut if off

You have the answer! Lastnight I pulled the column split cover off and saw the rod. It does move forward when I start, but does not pull back when I turn the key off. I reached in and pulled it back by hand and it shut down fine. Now I'm driving around like I stole the Bronco, using the rod to get things done. This is not in my Chilton's manual, so any directions you can give me would be hours saved. Thanks Mudmonger! and Uncle Don too.

[img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img] MG48 - 88 Bronco
post #6 of (permalink) Old 11-16-1999, 06:47 PM
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Re: I can\'t shut if off

Maybe I will check mine and look for cracks or wear. That problem would really suck.

Mark
post #7 of (permalink) Old 11-17-1999, 07:15 PM
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Re: I can\'t shut if off

>>> Well, you're gonna need a steering wheel puller or some other two bolt style puller. Remove the horn cover by taking two screws from backside of steering wheel, disconect the connectors for cruise controls. These are pushed in to the holes you use the puller on. Pinch the connectors together and they will pop out. Pull the steering wheel. Unscrew the turning signal lever, there is a small notch around it to put pliers on. Next you can remove the turning signal lever mechanism, there are two bolt, maybe three(been awhile), bolt headed screws holding it down. There should be enough wire on the green ground attaching it to the column to let it hang out of the way. Then we go inside the top portion of the column under the mechanism you just removed and find a couple of more screws to remove inside the bottom of it. With these out you slide this section up away from the hinge. This would be a good time to pull the cylinder out again. Now you will need a steering column hinge pin puller(you can get these from most major tool makers,ie. Mac, Snap-on). You may be able to make a puller out of bolts and washers though. Once these are pulled you will be able to remove the slider that the cylinder engages, this is the suspected bad part. There is another possibility, unlikely though, but, worth looking at. Before you tear down all the way try to confirm it is the end of the slider and not the rod. If, somehow, the rod broke or bent, it would cause the same problem. Well, if the slider is too blame, most likely, you will need to get this from Ford (15-17 bucks) cause "autozone don't got this one". This piece will be about 3 inches long and has a horse shoe shape at one end with a loop on the end of that where the rod fits in. Then make sure nothing looks bent and re-assemble in reverse. Might be a good idea to look at the hinge pins and see if they need replacing, probably not, but, worth a look since you got it apart. Good luck to you and shoot me a message if you have any problems. Laters.

NUFF SAID
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