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post #1 of (permalink) Old 01-01-2002, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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80-86 Heater controls

Never needed my heater down in Miami but "BOY"do i need it now!
Is the a/c compresser supposed to kick in when the bottom lever is in the *mix* position? Mine is...
I got a high flow Robertshaw thermostat in it which i believe is a 180 degree model but my heaters not getting very warm.If it weren`t such a pain in the a$$ to get to the thermostat on a 5.0, i would just pop in a 195 unit.

Could i have a damper door thats not shutting all the way between cold and warm and where is the damper located on the 86?



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post #2 of (permalink) Old 01-01-2002, 05:37 PM
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Re: 80-86 Heater controls

Yes, the clutch is engaged in Max A/C (recirculate), A/C (fresh), Mix, and Defrost which is why I decided to convert to the '87-early '88 setup with a separate A/C button. The other advantage is that it's all mechanical except the fresh/recirculate door. The temperature control door on '80-86 is the only mechanical control on yours, though, and the cable runs above the passenger footwell to the top of the air box where it attaches to the lever. There's also an adjustment there. But it's more likely your heater core is blocked, either internally by rust or externally by leaves. You can pull it easily & check it by removing the glove box (not the door but the box) and the 8-or-so screws, then the 1-or-2 nuts in the engine compartment where you also have to unhook the hoses.


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post #3 of (permalink) Old 01-01-2002, 07:44 PM
 
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Re: 80-86 Heater controls

Broncomania

Steve's right about the possible leaf blockage. Was the A/C working okay this past Summer ? That ought to tell you if the airflow is blocked by leaves.

Up here reverse flow flush outs are common place in repair shops or amongst do-it-yourself types (like us). This is an effective way to get heat back in your system and most rad shops will be happy to do it and change your coolant and even your T-stat for you for a nminal fee, if you don't have the time. All you need is a couple of T fittings with hoses connections, spliced into your heater hoses and a garden hose.

I've mentioned it before, if you're really wanting more heat, stick in Stant part #13352. That'll give you a 205 degree T-stat. I had the joy of changing the T-stat on the Ford and cut an 1/8" off the tough bolt and used the wire trick on the bolt and it went a lot better. Another trick we snowbelters do is block 50% of your rad off with cardboard.

Lastly, when you're done pointing the heating vents at your hands and the defrost has cleared the window, put the control on "floor". Heat rises and you want it to pump out as low as possible upon delivery.

Works in the land of back bacon

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 01-01-2002, 08:13 PM
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Re: 80-86 Heater controls

where do the leaves get piled up exactly? my heater isnt blowing much and what it is blowing is only hot when i first kick it on (after the engine is warmed up), then it seems to lose the heat, but its never HOT like it should be. i also have this weird dripping after a rain or if i wash it (rare) that lasts for hours on end. it comes from somewhere between the front left fender by the door but down where the plastic of the wheel well meets it, by the bolt that holds the fender on. water is getting trapped somewhere and leaks out slowly, i just dont know exactly where, and i have a feeling it's related to the leaves thing. any ideas?


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post #5 of (permalink) Old 01-01-2002, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 80-86 Heater controls

If i unscrew the blower motor from the engine compartment will i find the leave debri there?
That sounds like it may be my problem, lot of oak trees around the house. My a/c worked fine couple months back but the blower just dont put out that much power it seems. On high, just barely reaches the back seats. I was sitting in the back of my dads new 2002 F150 supercab a week ago and the blowers strong even in the back seat on its *lowest* setting and wisper quiet, heck mine sounds like a blowdrier on high and dont put out crap!

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 01-01-2002, 10:41 PM
 
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Re: 80-86 Heater controls

Sorry guys, you're gonna have to get under the dash, like Steve says

There ain't no way around it. Like Steve outlined, pull the entire glove compartment out, not just the door (it takes seconds). Then break out the small stuff (5/16" bolts I think) and pull off the heater core cover. On the other side (the fresh air side) of the core you should find those oaks leaves. You might have to drain some fluid and undo the heater hoses to get the core to pull out enough to gain access to your leaf collection.

Muddy that sounds exactly like the problem, turn the fan off, the leaves drop to the floor of the duct. Turn it on and they blow up and block off the core and flow.

Warm Canuck (with frozen locks)

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 01-01-2002, 11:44 PM
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Re: leif

The leaves build up in 2 places: the cleanouts inside the fenders and against the evaporator core.

You can access the evap by pulling the motor & the resistor plate (big electrical connector and 2 small screws beside the motor) and you can reach in and dig leaves out or split the evap housing on the other side (facing the engine) and hose everything out.

The cleanouts are much more difficult. They are thin rubber valves (for lack of a better description) attached to the front lower corners of the firewall facing down & slightly forward. They're supposed to be thin enough to let leaves & acorns & solid objects to drop thru using road vibration to help, but they always clog up. You can try to reach them by climbing over the fender with your feet in the air and reaching down inside the back edge of the fender, but you'll only P!$$ yourself off and cut your arms. The best way to get to them is pull the little screws that hold the outer edge of the wheelwell onto the fender and pry it down. They can be PITAs esp. when their J-nuts break, but it's still less hassle. Just remember HOW THE WHEELWELL FITS TO THE FENDER - it goes inside in some places and outside elsewhere. Once you get to the cleanouts, squeeze them along the long axis to open the big slot and DIG IN!!![img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img] They'll be jammed with some nasty wet grimy $#!T, but you gotta dig it out by hand, then you can rinse water into the wiper valance and it'll drain out and finish the job. Be careful pulling on the cleanouts, though, since they're held on by 2 plastic rivets that are hard to remove if you pull the rubber off them. Here's what they look like:

For anyone who doesn't have an EEC, or who is desperate not to pull the wheelwell, you can pull the kicks in the footwells and remove the plates for the old "I'm too cheap to get A/C" vents and you'll be looking at the insides of the cleanouts. If you DO have an EEC, you can still get to the passenger one, and even to the driver's ('84-91 only) if you pull the EEC forward into the engine compartment.


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post #8 of (permalink) Old 01-04-2002, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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Re: leif

Well i opened my heater core case and found half my problem, the channel shaped rubber gasket was not positioned properly letting some air by-pass the core, however its still not getting hot but my temp guage is not even reaching the *N* on normal with highs in the 40s here.

I must have the wrong thermostat, anyone figured out a trick to remove the 5/16" lower bolt on the thermostat housing on a 5.0 any faster than 1/32" turn at a time? Getting to that bolt with the waterpump back/timing cover hump directly in front of it is a MF!!!!

Btw, How about them CANES last night!!!![img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif[/img][img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif[/img]
Kicked A$$!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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